Got my truck back, I feel like they got me for EP sensor and maybe the fuel pump assembly. Ticket says fuel pressure was 29 at WOT, could have been clogged screens in the tank or pump. Will never really know for sure because they were not tested individually. Tech did say my truck was one of cleanest ones he seen in a long time. The belt issue I am sure was a honest mistake. I think the A/C blow colder before they replaced the compressor. Summer will be the final test I suppose. He know what the delamination was and said my tank was in good shape, other then the algae and hair they found in it.

 

The real question is, what the fuel pressure is after the install. 29 is way too low if I remember correctly. How about power is it back or running the same?

 

Really no change in power that I noticed, should have my fuel pressure gauge next week from riffraff. I will know then, reading should be 55-65 psi I believe.

 

Where did they check fuel pressure at? Can you tell a difference from stock to what ever tune you are running? I can tell a big difference between the two.

 

My seat of the pants feeling is a bit jaded at the moment, they gave me 2017 Ford Edge to drive around for almost a week while mine was in the shop. So the Ex felt, well not so froggy on the short drive home. The tech mentioned some fancy ford tool attached at the pump. It was not at the fuel bowl. He did say that the suction side was not tested. I asked why he didn't just run hose into a five gallon bucket off the suction side of the pump to see if pressure of the pump went back up? He replied that they didn't keep jugs of diesel in the shop. So I left it at that. Either way the fuel pump seems to be common wear item, and the tank really needed cleaning. So I just figured it as preventive maintenance either way. As I get used to the feeling of a 10,000 pound truck vs the sporty edge will have a better idea of the change in power. I can tell you my EGT's were about same.

 

The Rotunda tool is designed to simulate static fuel pressure and the fuel pressure under load WOT, all without having to drive the vehicle and damage the fuel injectors by having to do a WOT run with already low fuel pressure.

It works, but it would've been cool to know pressures pre and post filter.

 

So should I hook my fuel pressure gauge up pre or post at the fuel bowl?

 

For all you know your pressure could be still suffering if they didn't test it after the fix. 29 psi and 65 psi will absolutely provide a seat of the pants difference. Most dealer hook into the fuel line post pump right under the driver side door with their gauge setup. this is not any different than testing pre filter at the bowl unless you somehow have a crimped or plugged hardline between the pump and bowl, which I have never seen before.

Hook your gauge up to the upper port on the fuel bowl, this is pre fuel filter, you can then test on the lower port for post fuel filter pressure as well.

The easiest way is to use a #4 ORB male x femal fitting, a male x male 90, and a shrader valve with a female end. 13$ in fittings and you can test either port just like the OBS trucks. with a gauge, or even a tire pressure gauge.

You can also use a simple grease whip and liquid filled gauge on the 90 and it will stick out the hood seem as you go down the road.... to test WOP if you want...

Regarding damage to the injectors... Yes its absolutely not good for them to run on low fuel pressure, but myself and many others have lost my inline pump and I had to go about 20 miles each time with 0 pressure, the injectors pull enough siphon that they will suck fuel through, which also cools the injectors. Take it easy and you should be ok if you are absolutely in a pinch... mine have been in there nearly 100k without issue even with this happening twice. Others did not have any ill side affects and are nearing 200k on a set of remanned performance injectors from reputable sponsors.

 

Ok... ISSPRO fuel gauge should be here tomorrow, so will hook it up on the post port. Also changing fuel filter, will report back my findings once gauge is installed.

 

With the FRx I think you want it pre-filter to see what your actual fuel pump is putting out. Post filter would measure what the FRx is set to.

 

You will likely have a fitment issue if the sending unit is as big as the auto-meter units... I thought you were referring to a non permanent mechanical gauge.

Run it pre filter.. you really have to neglect a filter to restrict them horrendously.

 

Ok, so drive side port then. I got the 90 that swivels from Riffraff that goes into the port so hopefully that will take care of any fitment issues.