Wrench Light
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Freshman User
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Wrench Light
So I have a 2006 Ford F-250 6.0 that broke down about 2 months ago due to an EGR failure. Took it to the dealership got it fixed along with a new injector everything has been running fine only thing I notice is a big split in EOT and fW(218 EOT and 192 fWT). Well yesterday on the way home my wrench light comes on I tried to scan it with the scan gauge but it said no codes found and when I got home and turned the truck off and back on the light went off. Anybody know what could cause this?
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: CO
Based on my recent wrench light incident and the use of my SGII, take it to Advance or AZ and get it scaned. SGII is a poor code reader and did not show I popped an over boost code.
John
John
Last edited by Jerky's_06 F350; Apr 23, 2016 at 11:35 AM. Reason: spelling again :(
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2012
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The wrench light is from the difference between the oil and coolant temps you need to flush the cooling system really well and change the oil cooler and get some new coolant in it. I'd recommend going with red elc as would many others on here.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Foothills, CA
If you have a droid device, pop for torque pro $4.95 and a BT odbII adapter ($10) -- lots easier to play with than sgII and does a nice job with code reading/resetting (and a whole lot more!)... 
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Southern Cal
So are telling us that you had an egr failure, usually as a result of a poor coolant flow thru the oil cooler, superheating the egr cooler and splitting it, and the dealer didn't change out the oil cooler at the same time that contributed to that failure? Please clarify.
Also, when my turbo pulled an underboost condition due to a stuck unison ring, I too pulled a wrench light without a code. I lost immediate power when pulling and had to stop and shut off the engine. Once restarted, it ran fine enough to get to where I was headed, knowing I needed to pull the turbo for a refresh.
Mine would moan and groan at cold start up before that refresh, not anymore after.
Also, when my turbo pulled an underboost condition due to a stuck unison ring, I too pulled a wrench light without a code. I lost immediate power when pulling and had to stop and shut off the engine. Once restarted, it ran fine enough to get to where I was headed, knowing I needed to pull the turbo for a refresh.
Mine would moan and groan at cold start up before that refresh, not anymore after.
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So are telling us that you had an egr failure, usually as a result of a poor coolant flow thru the oil cooler, superheating the egr cooler and splitting it, and the dealer didn't change out the oil cooler at the same time that contributed to that failure? Please clarify.
Also, when my turbo pulled an underboost condition due to a stuck unison ring, I too pulled a wrench light without a code. I lost immediate power when pulling and had to stop and shut off the engine. Once restarted, it ran fine enough to get to where I was headed, knowing I needed to pull the turbo for a refresh.
Mine would moan and groan at cold start up before that refresh, not anymore after.
Also, when my turbo pulled an underboost condition due to a stuck unison ring, I too pulled a wrench light without a code. I lost immediate power when pulling and had to stop and shut off the engine. Once restarted, it ran fine enough to get to where I was headed, knowing I needed to pull the turbo for a refresh.
Mine would moan and groan at cold start up before that refresh, not anymore after.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,241
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From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
I think you're getting some good info here. There are only a handful of specific conditions that turn on the wrench light, if the truck was flashed with the latest software during the EGR repair, the short list of possible codes include excessive difference between the oil and coolant temperatures. Most basic code readers won't pull those codes but there are codes set when the wrench lights up. When the light is on the truck is in "limp mode" and restarting the truck commonly resets the light and gets it out of limp mode until the condition happens again.
Its a rookie mistake (especially for a dealership shop) to change a failed EGR cooler and leave the old oil cooler in place, especially if it's showing high EOT's before/after repairs unless you instructed them to do it that way. It would have been a complete repair and saved significant labor cost to do oil cooler at the same time. I'm not sure how far you'll get with that argument but worth discussing with them.
Sounds to me like it's time for an oil cooler.
Its a rookie mistake (especially for a dealership shop) to change a failed EGR cooler and leave the old oil cooler in place, especially if it's showing high EOT's before/after repairs unless you instructed them to do it that way. It would have been a complete repair and saved significant labor cost to do oil cooler at the same time. I'm not sure how far you'll get with that argument but worth discussing with them.
Sounds to me like it's time for an oil cooler.
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
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From: Virginia Beach VA
I think you're getting some good info here. There are only a handful of specific conditions that turn on the wrench light, if the truck was flashed with the latest software during the EGR repair, the short list of possible codes include excessive difference between the oil and coolant temperatures. Most basic code readers won't pull those codes but there are codes set when the wrench lights up. When the light is on the truck is in "limp mode" and restarting the truck commonly resets the light and gets it out of limp mode until the condition happens again.
Its a rookie mistake (especially for a dealership shop) to change a failed EGR cooler and leave the old oil cooler in place, especially if it's showing high EOT's before/after repairs unless you instructed them to do it that way. It would have been a complete repair and saved significant labor cost to do oil cooler at the same time. I'm not sure how far you'll get with that argument but worth discussing with them.
Sounds to me like it's time for an oil cooler.
Its a rookie mistake (especially for a dealership shop) to change a failed EGR cooler and leave the old oil cooler in place, especially if it's showing high EOT's before/after repairs unless you instructed them to do it that way. It would have been a complete repair and saved significant labor cost to do oil cooler at the same time. I'm not sure how far you'll get with that argument but worth discussing with them.
Sounds to me like it's time for an oil cooler.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Sioux Falls, SD
Some great info & advice on this thread.......
In addition, here is a link to the TSB that shows what will sent the wrench light. I was in a very similar situation 6 months ago. My 2006 F-350 would set the wrench light and did not show any codes, well not any that my SCT to AutoEnginuity would pick up on. My ECT & EOT delta was 15-20 degrees. After replacing the oil cooler & EGR delete it has not returned and my ECT/EOT delta is back were it should be.
2006-2007 are on page 2
https://system.netsuite.com/core/med...1%26_xt%3D.pdf
In addition, here is a link to the TSB that shows what will sent the wrench light. I was in a very similar situation 6 months ago. My 2006 F-350 would set the wrench light and did not show any codes, well not any that my SCT to AutoEnginuity would pick up on. My ECT & EOT delta was 15-20 degrees. After replacing the oil cooler & EGR delete it has not returned and my ECT/EOT delta is back were it should be.
2006-2007 are on page 2
https://system.netsuite.com/core/med...1%26_xt%3D.pdf
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Thanks for all the info so far it has been really helpful. I also think it may be the oil cooler. My only other question is do I just take it back in and tell them to change the oil cooler? I'm kinda in a tough spot I'm not able to work on my own truck I live in an apartment (with no tools on hand) and I'm in the military which doesn't leave me with a lot of time to work on my own truck due to my work schedule. Should I go back to the same dealership and tell them the problem or go to a different dealership and explain to them what happened and exactly what I want done?
Postmaster
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From: Southern Cal
It doesn't hurt to go back and explain that the fixed didn't solve the issue. Ask why the oil cooler wasn't quoted or an option to change it out while apart? I'd question their processes of them not suggesting a complete fix.
I'd expect a quote, for them to do the work, using the labor based on the existing engine top open and not a new job using all the necessary labor.
It sure doesn't hurt to discuss the issue with the Service Mgr and the disappointment of having to be there again, expecting a discounted quote.
I'd expect a quote, for them to do the work, using the labor based on the existing engine top open and not a new job using all the necessary labor.
It sure doesn't hurt to discuss the issue with the Service Mgr and the disappointment of having to be there again, expecting a discounted quote.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2015
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Likes: 0
It doesn't hurt to go back and explain that the fixed didn't solve the issue. Ask why the oil cooler wasn't quoted or an option to change it out while apart? I'd question their processes of them not suggesting a complete fix.
I'd expect a quote, for them to do the work, using the labor based on the existing engine top open and not a new job using all the necessary labor.
It sure doesn't hurt to discuss the issue with the Service Mgr and the disappointment of having to be there again, expecting a discounted quote.
I'd expect a quote, for them to do the work, using the labor based on the existing engine top open and not a new job using all the necessary labor.
It sure doesn't hurt to discuss the issue with the Service Mgr and the disappointment of having to be there again, expecting a discounted quote.
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