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Wheel Bearing / Death wobble

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  #16  
Old 04-27-2016, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by bashby
The races can be removed from the hub. If the bearings are bad you should definitely replace the races also. If you don't want to mess with pressing in the new races you could get new brake rotors, they will come with the races installed. (2wd only)
Originally Posted by Shawn MacAnanny
The race is a part of the hub? They've gotta be able to be tapped out with a brass punch. I am planning on doing mine soone and my bearings came with races, i can't imagine the races dont come out of the hub. You should never use a new bearing with an old race, atleast that's what i've always been taught and practiced.
Well gents, I apologize! I stand corrected. Been almost 10 years since I did the 2WD bearings, etc. I tried to replace them back then but I either couldn't get it to pop out or ruined it trying, can't remember.

How do you press it in?
 
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Old 04-27-2016, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by The_Josh_Bear
Well gents, I apologize! I stand corrected. Been almost 10 years since I did the 2WD bearings, etc. I tried to replace them back then but I either couldn't get it to pop out or ruined it trying, can't remember.

How do you press it in?
I have never pressed a race in. I always hammer them in with aluminum drivers . I have this kit.


XtremepowerUS Bearing Race and Seal Driver Master Set - 10 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GGSOXNU..._6EvixbR106TB7
 
  #18  
Old 04-29-2016, 10:35 AM
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I believe that is the plan for how we will install them. A friend of mine has an auto shop were going to do the work in.
I've also seen that you can freeze the race before installing them so the metal will contract making is slip in easier, then expand and set.
 
  #19  
Old 04-29-2016, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Mizuez
I believe that is the plan for how we will install them. A friend of mine has an auto shop were going to do the work in.
I've also seen that you can freeze the race before installing them so the metal will contract making is slip in easier, then expand and set.
I've seen people put differential housings in grills before putting in new races, I was thinking of the same for the hub.

For u joints I always never seize the caps and slide surface, could probably do the same for races, it would help them slide in easier. Can't see it ever being enought to make them loose
 
  #20  
Old 04-29-2016, 04:30 PM
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They go in easy. The auto shop zhould have a set of ra e drivers. Did you price new rotors?
 
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Old 05-01-2016, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by bashby
They go in easy. The auto shop zhould have a set of ra e drivers. Did you price new rotors?
I did. About $50 or so a side. But no bearings installed so I'd still have to do that.
 
  #22  
Old 05-01-2016, 03:02 PM
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I have never seen new rotors that have pressed in bearings not come with the outer races installed.
You still need dth bearing cones and seals but the races came with every one i replaced in 25 years
as a professional auto mechanic.
 
  #23  
Old 05-01-2016, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by bashby
I have never seen new rotors that have pressed in bearings not come with the outer races installed.
You still need dth bearing cones and seals but the races came with every one i replaced in 25 years
as a professional auto mechanic.
Well here's the set of drilled and slotted rotors i've got waiting to go in the next time i have my F350 DRW apart. The rotors unbolt from the hub so the races and bearings stay in the hub.

And heres a picture from a VW Passat TDI rotor that is also supposed to have press in races, which it doesnt come with.
 
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  #24  
Old 05-01-2016, 03:50 PM
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Yes our duallie and 4x4 trucks have rotors that seperate from the hub, but a 2wd srw is like the vw one you show. Maybe its common for them to come without them now, but thats the first one I remember seeing.
 
  #25  
Old 05-06-2016, 08:31 PM
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I did get around to putting in new ball joints today and new wheels bearings. The races in the hub were actually really tight, I couldn't get them out with a brass punch, I had to use a steel one and even grind a new flat end on it to get a good bite to knock it out with a 5lber. I hammered them back in with an aluminum race driver. These were some tight races.
 
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