When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So loss power on take off and then stopped at store quick shut it down. Came out of store ten minutes later no start just turns over and over. I replaced IPR last year the one on passenger side near frame if that's correct and perhaps this is the ICP near back of engine?
So loss power on take off and then stopped at store quick shut it down. Came out of store ten minutes later no start just turns over and over. I replaced IPR last year the one on passenger side near frame if that's correct and perhaps this is the ICP near back of engine?
Okay tow dropped her off in my driveway maybe 30 mins from breaking down just hooked my Code reader to her no codes. Tried to start fired right up.
Besides the IPR or ICP which don't they typically throw a code when they go bad would fuel pump not turning on cause same issue? Was too noisy to tell but when I was at store and turned key several times to try and start I don't recall fuel pump coming on making that noise. Now I can hear pump make noise like normal and the truck started right up.
I replaced fuel filters 5 months ago time for new ones again?. I know several items will need to be sorted out and troubleshoot small things first but the loss of power on take off which seems like turbo lag not sure that would be fuel issue either?
I replaced IPR last year the one on passenger side near frame if that's correct and perhaps this is the ICP near back of engine?
That's backwards, the ICP is on the passenger side valve cover and IPR is behind the turbo.
Next time does it restart if you unplug the ICP? Engine voltage and FICM voltage?
Originally Posted by Irish19614x4
Besides the IPR or ICP which don't they typically throw a code when they go bad would fuel pump not turning on cause same issue?
Remove the secondary fuel filter and drain the housing, then have someone cycle the key. If the bowl fills up in a couple to four seconds it's probably not fuel. Fuel is rarely the cause of a no-start on the 6.0, they run (not well, but they do run) with significantly reduced fuel pressure. The way it started after it sat sounds more like an HPO leak.
Originally Posted by Irish19614x4
I replaced fuel filters 5 months ago time for new ones again?.
Replace every 10,000 miles. You can pull the lower and see if it's trashed up, but again not likely the cause of a no start.
Okay well last year I replaced a sensor that was along my frame near engine ground wire because I had to remove that just to replace but I did it from under the truck. Tight place had to use extension on my socket wrench just to get to bolts that hold it on. I know on the Excursion I had which was a 2003 I had replaced a sensor again from under truck but reaching up removing heat shield behind engine and in front of transmission area. Again both a bitch to replace so whichever they are called I know the one on this truck was replaced last year and that one was passenger side, front, near ground wire for engine. But certainly not all the way up by valve cover.
Thanks for input on other items of concern didn't think it was fuel related but was curious on lack of take off power like turbo lag?
Moved to 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel forum per request. Good luck!
Thanks Redford!
I'll continue my quest to troubleshoot the cause of my anxiety lol but truck starts up no issues driving it to work today. Luckily it's less than a mile to work . Worse case she gets towed home this evening.
Just out of curiosity without a monitor can one check voltage readings of FICM while installed on truck? Just figured if that were a more accurate reading than any other way, I would like to know another check for it. I will expect my problem to resurface again. This loss of power on take off started about a week ago so if it is bad voltage to ficm I don't want to kee driving running risk to damage my injectors correct?
I had a scan gauge but it broke as my kid kicked it out of truck one day when it wasn't connected and cracked it stopped working. I'll need to grab another one as I know they are vital. The scan gauge can monitor FICM voltage correct? I don't recall when I had mine so just making sure before I go getting another one.
Unless there are better easier ways to check voltage please enlighten me I'll do it today after work just to see where it stands.
Disregard my last I just watched this video and seems pretty straight forward so I'll hopefully test it later. With any luck I'll discover my FICM showing signs of repair or upgrade. Only because I don't want to keep chasing a problem unknown and ultimately replace tons of parts to find out it wasn't any of them . If if is my FICM I'll be reaching out to Ed @ ficmrepair.com and also look into putting Atlas40 on it. . Anyways for now I'll keep you guys posted as soon as I test FICM if that checks out I'll just have to wait until truck acts up again.
That's backwards, the ICP is on the passenger side valve cover and IPR is behind the turbo.
Next time does it restart if you unplug the ICP? Engine voltage and FICM voltage?
Remove the secondary fuel filter and drain the housing, then have someone cycle the key. If the bowl fills up in a couple to four seconds it's probably not fuel. Fuel is rarely the cause of a no-start on the 6.0, they run (not well, but they do run) with significantly reduced fuel pressure. The way it started after it sat sounds more like an HPO leak.
Replace every 10,000 miles. You can pull the lower and see if it's trashed up, but again not likely the cause of a no start.
To check the senor itself you have to either check the sensor voltage versus desired ICP on a scanner, or if it won't start, unplug the sensor and see if that fixes it. If you check the sensor and there is oil in the wiring connector, both the sensor and wiring pigtail needs to be replaced.
There are two ICP readings in the engine, actual and desired. Actual is based on the voltage output of the sensor and some scanners can convert to PSI, desired is a PSI reading from the PCM. Mismatch between those is a sign the sensor is bad.
If you're having a hot no-start because of an HPO system leak, when you have the truck running and hot and let it sit at idle, ICP will be in the noprma;l 580-620psi range but IPR will be above the normal 21-23% range. When it won't start hot you'd would see actual ICP below 500spi and IPR% pegged to 85% (it's max). Then you would need to do an air test. You'd you need something like this: 6.0L High Pressure Oil System IPR Air Test Tool
It sounds like an hpo leak since it started after it had time too cool off. The easiest way to confirm would take it out for a drive and get it nice and hot then get back home and shut it down and try to restart it. If it doesn't start up right away wait a while let it cool off and the try again if it starts after a cool down then you have a hpo leak.
Also, DON'T buy another ScanGauge. They're incredibly outdated now, it's like using a TI-83 instead of a smartphone: one is purpose built to draw pixilated graphs straight out of the 90s, and the other has the has the horsepower to run an app that draws graphs that are 10x better.
I use DashBoss through an iPhone, but Torque app runs on Android. Either are significantly better than the ScanGauge, and come prep-programmed since they're apps: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...eral-info.html
Both of these will show ICP (actual and desired) and IPR on one screen, seeing signs of an HPO leak or bad sensor are much easier than on a ScanGauge.
Okay great I'll do the IPR and ICP testing. That tool I had read about this morning but the IPR is located down below turbo right? So essentially not easy to use tool without removing parts in order to do that air testing? I remember replacing the IPR on my 2003 Excursion I did it under the truck removed a heat shield and reached up and pulled it after removal of two small bolts. What a pain! I see my ICP is in fact on valve cover passenger side so that makes things easy.
I will check voltage on FICM hopefully today after work if that checks out I'll take it out get it up to temp then shut off in my driveway . And see if she starts back up. If that checks out I'll check ICP pig tail and make sure no oil, corosion, broken wiring, etc. I'll also look into the other tools to test ICP and IPR and not buy the scan gauge. I'll take your word for it and go with better quality item.
Thanks everyone so far! Will post all results asap.
. Worse case she gets towed home this evening. 
