If it is a leak, possible O ring while I tear it down to find that out what all should I replace while in that area? Items like STC fitting, stand pipes, dummy plugs, etc?

 

I just hope I'm not looking at a HPOP failure and just a leak that is cheaper and some what easier to fix.

 

If you get the IPR controller you should be able to push the degas bottle off to the side and get to the wiring connector so you can use the ICP sensor air fittings. But I have small hands, YMMV. Air test will help you pinpoint what's leaking if you're trying to target the leak and not swap a bunch of parts.

 

When it comes to Torque I'll need a Bluetooth OBD II adapter correct? I have Android so this will work right and I'll need to download app of course?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PJPHEBO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1461168726&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=bluetooth+obd+ii+adapter& dpPl=1&dpID=51qXYBNlGRL&ref=plSrch

 

Okay that makes sense, as for doing air test if it's internally like inside near oil pump how would I know if I had a leak? Assuming I run test and don't tear engine down to expose oil pump or will I need to do that?

 

Yes to the PBDII bluetooth adaptor, that's what you need.

With the air test you hear air leaking, and reseal the leak.



If you have to remove the high pressure pump you can do it with only removing the turbo:

 

Well I'm not rulling out worse case scenario just hoping I dont have to replace my HPOP pretty costly item right now if I have to.

Thanks for those videos I'll check them out when I get home. Don't have unlimited data on phone

 

OBD II reader ordered and here today thanks to Amazon prime

Now as far as the app goes should I get Torque lite free or pay the $4.95 for Torque Pro? I don't care about $5 just want to make sure before I pay to download if the Lite does what I need it to do vice paying for Pro.???

 

Go Pro,and sign in for the Ford pids

 

Okay done I also created my layout so far I have EOT, ECT, IPR and ICP, FICM which I wasn't sure which pid would give me the voltages I needed so I added all three for now, also have cylinder misfire was thinking this would tell me if my injectors were not working? Unless that's not accurate but see my screenshot layout let me know if you think I should check anything else.

 

Man I'm so behind the times to realize this cool gadget . I'll be anxious all day to receive my OBD II adapter to hook it up and start retrieving data and I'll be sure to take screenshot of live data as needed.

 

Look through the lists and try to find both ICP PIDs, you want to compare actual and desired. I'm on iOS so I don't know how to find it in Torque, but someone posted screen caps showing both recently.

 

Okay those were the two I found the HPOP being ICP and the IPR obviously the IPR. I will look for another ICP one tonight when I get home.

 

Okay got adapter managed to hook it up tonight for short test but clearly seems everything was okay but truck wasn't at full temp yet either. So Friday or by this weekend for sure I should be able to drive truck around long enough to bring it up to temps.

I'm still not finding that other IPR pid only the one for duty cycle.

And then my ICP so on my layout the HPOP is IPR duty cycle and ICP is obviously ICP.

My FICM voltage at startup when cold was about 43 and climbed up to 48.5 think was the highest I seen it go in a ten minute drive.

I shut truck off started up immediately but again didn't get it to full temp.

Deltas look great and voltage on battery steady 13 or so.

See photos of screen shot.

In addition though I pulled codes even without a Check Engine light I have P0667 which is Cylinder #7 Glow plug Circuit or so the search online says so. Would this cause no start like I had or no because faulty glow plug harness or glow plug itself won't keep it from starting unless it was more than one?

If anyone knows of custom PIDs so I can load those in for both IPR readings that would be awesome. Immediately on first startup though my HPOP read over 600psi.

Any thoughts so far or should I defiantly test longer?

I know getting it to full temp then bring it home shut off and starting again is another test I need to do to see if it repeats issue.

 

Your FICM volts shouldn't be dipping down below 45 - like ever. That said, I am skeptical that this is the cause of your no start issues (though stranger things have happened). We'd need to see your values when it is not starting to get a better idea.

Ultimately, I'd say that you have a FICM issue minimally. As you aren't finding anything else wrong for now, you could certainly start with the FICM as we know that it's bad at least. Thanks for the consideration!