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Your FICM volts shouldn't be dipping down below 45 - like ever. That said, I am skeptical that this is the cause of your no start issues (though stranger things have happened). We'd need to see your values when it is not starting to get a better idea.
Ultimately, I'd say that you have a FICM issue minimally. As you aren't finding anything else wrong for now, you could certainly start with the FICM as we know that it's bad at least. Thanks for the consideration!
So when it is a hot crank no start and a FICM acting this way it will cause that? Certainly I would love to rule it out so I do want to fix it if that is the case.
I knew you would chime in and help me out . I'm looking at getting that fixed but figured while I'm at it I might as well add Atlas40. So can I contact you to find out costs?
As far as test with no start do you want me to conduct hard test with voltmeter to the FICM itself or just use my adapter and turn key to on position, etc?
After ten minutes to work also when I'm not loading or throttling the truck I did notice the FICM defiantly drops down but when I put truck under load it comes back up. Damn it lol but okay its a start and at least this way excuse to get Atlas installed.
Not for sure the cause of a no start, so we still need to see that same screen cap at hot idle, and if possible while it's cranking during a hot no-start.
88*C would be operating temperature. Does it ever get to that level?
We have your Key On Engine Off FICM voltages, but not your voltages during cranking when it is not starting. My strong guess is that your FICM main power voltages during cranking during a no start condition are dipping materially lower than the 42 volts.
Regardless, what we know for an absolute fact is that your FICM is damaged and needs to be repaired. You can use the numbers from your testing thus far to fill out the intake form available from Sending Your Module In and ship your module on in.
If you can't afford the downtime, you can also just order a pre-programmed and ready to rock FICM using our Exchange program. To start that process, just visit Exchange Program.
As you are having a FICM issue though, PLEASE yank out your alternator and batteries and have them bench/load tested to ensure that they are okay. SOMETHING caused you to have this issue - finding out what will prevent a recurrence. Just because an alternator is charging does not mean that it's good.
Not for sure the cause of a no start, so we still need to see that same screen cap at hot idle, and if possible while it's cranking during a hot no-start.
88*C would be operating temperature. Does it ever get to that level?
Check out post #29 on temp to 88* well close at least
get the truck to full temp and then see what IPR% is, should be 40%@2500RPM....
22.4% when warm isn't bad, but I'd bet you have a dummy plug issue. Would like to see IPR% and HPOP PSI when this no start occurs.
13.2 volts is a little low, clean all the grounding locations that the negative battery cables are attached to the truck at. Drivers frame, passenger body and passenger frame to block, small ground strap from drivers body near the back of the engine to block. That should get you to near 14.0v.
We have your Key On Engine Off FICM voltages, but not your voltages during cranking when it is not starting. My strong guess is that your FICM main power voltages during cranking during a no start condition are dipping materially lower than the 42 volts.
Regardless, what we know for an absolute fact is that your FICM is damaged and needs to be repaired. You can use the numbers from your testing thus far to fill out the intake form available from Sending Your Module In and ship your module on in.
If you can't afford the downtime, you can also just order a pre-programmed and ready to rock FICM using our Exchange program. To start that process, just visit Exchange Program.
As you are having a FICM issue though, PLEASE yank out your alternator and batteries and have them bench/load tested to ensure that they are okay. SOMETHING caused you to have this issue - finding out what will prevent a recurrence. Just because an alternator is charging does not mean that it's good.
Please delete due to I understand now what Ficmrepair.com was trying to say
I suppose at this point it would not be recommended to even drive the truck short distances anymore huh? Then again I do still need to perform a engine full temp and hot test as stated above.
get the truck to full temp and then see what IPR% is, should be 40%@2500RPM....
22.4% when warm isn't bad, but I'd bet you have a dummy plug issue. Would like to see IPR% and HPOP PSI when this no start occurs.
13.2 volts is a little low, clean all the grounding locations that the negative battery cables are attached to the truck at. Drivers frame, passenger body and passenger frame to block, small ground strap from drivers body near the back of the engine to block. That should get you to near 14.0v.
I will get those numbers when at full temp ASAP! As far as the ground connections I will also get those cleaned up and I plan to pull batteries anyhow and alternator and take them to get bench tested.
If after I get my FICM repaired and tuned I don't want to run the risk of damaging it again especially if I decide to do the ATLAS40 and drop another $150 on this thing just to ruin it over again.
Standby for more details but might be a day or two.........
83*C is 180*f, not operating temp of 190*f. If you're never getting to 88*C then you likely need a thermostat also.
Remember though I drove the truck less than 10 minutes maybe like 8 minutes total. I will need to drive the truck longer and see if I can bring it to operating temp. I'm not ruling it out that I could need more things but for sure don't think I drove it long enough to let it warm up all the way.
Drove truck around for about 20 minutes last night and here is my readings. My Coolant temp climbed to 85 but slowly dipped so maybe taking it on the highway it would come up higher but from what I understand at least my deltas are not too far gap of one another or I would have more issues.
Question though wouldn't the coolant drop overtime when fan comes on and engine cools down. I mean it would go way down because it's always doing to be working to cool engine/oil but if it climbs too high that would be bad. Is it really bad if it doesn't climb to 88* normal operating temp but it's close like 85*? I can change thermostat was thinking of doing mishimito one anyhow heard good reviews and when I scrape the money I will replace radiator with mishimito one as well. Right now though my focus is getting truck running normal.
At least as normal as it can be for now.
After that drive last night I drove truck home shut it down and started it back up few times no issues. So far not able to repeat no start issue which probably won't happen now until I'm out and about leaving me stranded again lol.
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. I'm looking at getting that fixed but figured while I'm at it I might as well add Atlas40. So can I contact you to find out costs?
