So I have been entertaining the solid axle swap on my exploder for some time now-- Winder if it is worth it? Should I do coil springs or leaf springs? full width or current width? I want taller height for better clearance than the ifs provides-- I will still keep it street leagal- but not "drive from here to Colorado" type drive able-- More like 20 miles round trip drivable.


Just kind of looking for opinions. Thoiughts?

 

I don't feel like you would be happy with leaf springs up front.


you are already on the tall and narrow side, I would say that full width would definitely give you more stability. How much wider are the full width than what you currently have?

 

I have only seen on SAS front RBV that was streetable other than the old Fabritech kit that was very expensive. Duff lists some stuff but I have not researched it to see if they have a solution to the problems that occur with the swap. Axle location and steering geometry are the main ones. Those problems and the need for my vehicle to be streetable was the reason I put 44 outers on the 35 TTB. The axle u-joints are the same size. Brakes and outer axles are the same. So all that leaves is the strength of the 44 ring and pinion vs the 35. And the bit of front axle clearance. You still gain the lower cost front brake and lock out parts. I have not had any trouble with 33's. I always wanted to trim the wheel openings and try 35's. That did not work on Jr. Maybe I'll try some day on Green or another RBV.

 

for those not in the know, what makes putting a straight axle under it would make it difficult to make it streetable? seems like it might ride a little different, but for the most part, I figured everything would pretty much work the same. No?

 

1. Trac bar location and function. The trac bar is a solid piece. When working correctly it centers the axle in line with the rear axle. And when the front axle compresses and extends it moves the front axle just slightly. One direction for compression one hopefully the other way for extension and very little.


2. Axle location. Must be square with the truck and rear axle.


3. Ball joint angle. You can rotate the axle for proper ball joint angle and then the steering drag link is needed to run parallel to the trac bar.


4. Drive shaft angle. This requires turning the center section independent of the axle ears that hold the ball joints.


5. C bushing wedge axle mounts. The coil springs mount into the top of the radius arms. So these need to hold the bottom of the coil spring directly under the top coil mount so the spring does not bend forward or backward and compresses and extends as much in line as possible. There have been many different ways and custom radius arms help with this.


Been a while since I looked in to this so there may be other concerns but those are the ones I remember off the top of my head. Way more than I am able to do with a tape measure and hand tools.


44 outers require steering knuckles and a cut off wheel on my 7" grinder. A trip to the machine shop to have new holes drilled in the knuckle to accept the 44 spindle. Then just bolt all new (and less expensive) 44 outers on it. Bigger 44 brakes, stronger outs. And wheel bearings that are farther apart for more leverage against the larger tires. And it uses stock steering and axle location.


There have been lots of folks that have a very low cost RBV and 44 front. They take a welder and metal and stick it together and put it on a trailer and go wheel in a orv park. Just depends on what you want to do.

 

Seems like there is a lot to think about, I figured we could just welder it straight to the frame, and fix, or upgrade the first thing that broke with heavier metal and hotter welds.


Isn't that how things are engineered?


Then eventually add in suspension and steering.

 

Yup that's what you do for a trailer queen for off road use only. It's that pesky streetable deal that causes the trouble.

 

Silly Streetable rules.. what happened to the old adventurous "us" when we used duct tape and bailing wire to hold a front axle on, and went skinny pedal to the top of the hill?
Doesn't seem like all that long ago, we were wild and crazy like that.

 

Yep it sure is allot to think about- that is why I am doing as much research as I can- Thanks for the input guys:-)


If I even do the swap I am leaning toward full width- dana 44 - with extended radius arms- coil springs and high steer steering--- BUT I have most of the parts to do a narrow width Dana 44 now--- There is so much info out there- some good and some bad-- My goal is have a street able rig to get from trailhead to trailhead and load it on the trailer for longer trips. Driving my rig to go wheel doesn't seem to work out to well for me. I spent a good chunk on a tow rig for that reason.

 

If'n ya need, take some measurements off of a vehicle that has approximately the same amount of lift that you desire, C angles, pinion angles, mounting points.


I will tell ya, your front rides smoother than my straight axle, at least my old one. I generally had to air down quite a bit to keep from beating the Jeep up. I often followed you through things, and thought... Wow you went over those bumps fast, so, my guess is it will change your drive habits a little, but I feel it will help in your clearance.

 

Yeah I thought of that- I need to install a magic pixie in my glove box- to give me road handling when I want it- Clearance when I want it- super sticky tires- and my wife ***** when I want them! :-)