Correct Spark Plug Torque And Gap? (1999 E-150 5.4 V8)
#1
Correct Spark Plug Torque And Gap? (1999 E-150 5.4 V8)
Anyone have experience with the plugs on these vans? I've heard the plugs can blow out if not torqued properly and the original factory torque specs are wrong because of blow out problems. Not sure if this affects all Ford 5.4s or my van specifically?
Additionally, there seems to be a debate about whether anti-seize should be used or they should be installed dry. Any thoughts?
Lastly, are Motorcraft spark plugs pre-gapped? Will be checking them anyway but was curious. Are the original spark plug gap recommendations the same or have they also changed?
Additionally, there seems to be a debate about whether anti-seize should be used or they should be installed dry. Any thoughts?
Lastly, are Motorcraft spark plugs pre-gapped? Will be checking them anyway but was curious. Are the original spark plug gap recommendations the same or have they also changed?
#2
This looks like the definitive answer on 5.4L plugs, dbbldz.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...5-4-plugs.html
HTH
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...5-4-plugs.html
HTH
#3
There is info here on the 5.4 also:
Blownoutsparkplug.com Ford Spark Plug Thread Repair
Vastly different torque specs than the manual states. I have a V10 and used this service twice. Never any problem.
I didn't have a blown plug or repair. They changed plugs using the post '99 plug and their torque values.
Blownoutsparkplug.com Ford Spark Plug Thread Repair
Vastly different torque specs than the manual states. I have a V10 and used this service twice. Never any problem.
I didn't have a blown plug or repair. They changed plugs using the post '99 plug and their torque values.
#4
Jim's link is good as far as it goes however in the time since new procedures have been adapted by most of us who DIY plugs...........
-Nothing but the Motorcraft plugs sped'd for the specific year and engine. The plug gap is pre-set at the factory, nothing more than a quick check right before installation to assure its not changed for unknown reasons (shipping mishandling etc.)
-Anti-seize a definite must IMHO, nickel-based because it withstands higher operating temperatures (as compared to aluminum-based). Despite the spec'd plug's platinum thread plating this single step greatly reduces potential issues next plug change.
-ANY good quality brand/type of torque wrench is more than sufficient, the preferred range for maximum accuracy 5-75 is best. (Digital is okay but that's not necessary at all, the "click" type just as good.)
-Torque the plugs to about 22 ft/lbs, disregard the 7-14 values found in the service manuals no matter who has printed or authored them.
In the linked thread the remaining bits are fine---I'd agree with most of what's there, FWIW.
HTH
-Nothing but the Motorcraft plugs sped'd for the specific year and engine. The plug gap is pre-set at the factory, nothing more than a quick check right before installation to assure its not changed for unknown reasons (shipping mishandling etc.)
-Anti-seize a definite must IMHO, nickel-based because it withstands higher operating temperatures (as compared to aluminum-based). Despite the spec'd plug's platinum thread plating this single step greatly reduces potential issues next plug change.
-ANY good quality brand/type of torque wrench is more than sufficient, the preferred range for maximum accuracy 5-75 is best. (Digital is okay but that's not necessary at all, the "click" type just as good.)
-Torque the plugs to about 22 ft/lbs, disregard the 7-14 values found in the service manuals no matter who has printed or authored them.
In the linked thread the remaining bits are fine---I'd agree with most of what's there, FWIW.
HTH
#5
There is info here on the 5.4 also:
Blownoutsparkplug.com Ford Spark Plug Thread Repair
Vastly different torque specs than the manual states. I have a V10 and used this service twice. Never any problem.
I didn't have a blown plug or repair. They changed plugs using the post '99 plug and their torque values.
Blownoutsparkplug.com Ford Spark Plug Thread Repair
Vastly different torque specs than the manual states. I have a V10 and used this service twice. Never any problem.
I didn't have a blown plug or repair. They changed plugs using the post '99 plug and their torque values.
#6
Jim's link is good as far as it goes however in the time since new procedures have been adapted by most of us who DIY plugs...........
-Nothing but the Motorcraft plugs sped'd for the specific year and engine. The plug gap is pre-set at the factory, nothing more than a quick check right before installation to assure its not changed for unknown reasons (shipping mishandling etc.)
-Anti-seize a definite must IMHO, nickel-based because it withstands higher operating temperatures (as compared to aluminum-based). Despite the spec'd plug's platinum thread plating this single step greatly reduces potential issues next plug change.
-ANY good quality brand/type of torque wrench is more than sufficient, the preferred range for maximum accuracy 5-75 is best. (Digital is okay but that's not necessary at all, the "click" type just as good.)
-Torque the plugs to about 22 ft/lbs, disregard the 7-14 values found in the service manuals no matter who has printed or authored them.
In the linked thread the remaining bits are fine---I'd agree with most of what's there, FWIW.
HTH
-Nothing but the Motorcraft plugs sped'd for the specific year and engine. The plug gap is pre-set at the factory, nothing more than a quick check right before installation to assure its not changed for unknown reasons (shipping mishandling etc.)
-Anti-seize a definite must IMHO, nickel-based because it withstands higher operating temperatures (as compared to aluminum-based). Despite the spec'd plug's platinum thread plating this single step greatly reduces potential issues next plug change.
-ANY good quality brand/type of torque wrench is more than sufficient, the preferred range for maximum accuracy 5-75 is best. (Digital is okay but that's not necessary at all, the "click" type just as good.)
-Torque the plugs to about 22 ft/lbs, disregard the 7-14 values found in the service manuals no matter who has printed or authored them.
In the linked thread the remaining bits are fine---I'd agree with most of what's there, FWIW.
HTH
Used a digital torque wrench and got em all somewhere between 25-28 ft/lbs
Ended up doing em dry after reading the that blownoutsparkplug.com faq and a few threads about the problem. with my luck my van will be Found On the Road Dead before I get to my next plug change
#7
As long as your plugs are in, didn't cross thread etc and its running fine now you're good to go. Do keep in mind its a good practice changing them at 50K miles, again a bit in disagreement with manuals saying they can go 100K.
Good work BTW, thanks for the follow up and contribution here!
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