I have a 1999 Bounder RV with an F53 engine ... the original 2 valve 10 in it. 110K miles on it now.

I changed the plugs about 7 years ago ... time to do them again (I need all new coils so I may as well do the plugs at the same time).

So ... dealer says 160 - 168 in lbs and .052-.054 gap

Ford online help (I did the online chat just to make sure the dealer was correct) says 71 - 106 in lbs and .052 - .056

I just put a posting up under super duty (didn't know there was a V10 area) ... these guys are saying 25 ft lbs (300 inch lbs)!

I remember 7 years ago reading horror stories about plugs in early V10's. I want to make sure I get it right. I can't remember what I did last time but I did use anti-seize on them (hopefully I used nickle based ... don't remember) so they should come out. I was careful putting them back in but I don't remember what I torqued them to (they stayed in for 40K so I must have done something right).

I just want to make sure I do it right and don't hurt anything.

Just FYI .... I modified the RV for so my wife how is in a wheelchair can travel ...she is paralyzed and needs care every 4 hours. Here is a link to the project: https://mcsele.shutterfly.com/2299

Thanks .... Mike

 

I usually gap around .052" or .053" and only use Motorcraft or Autolite plugs. Lots of guys use torque wrenches on plugs, I don't for several reasons. I just hand tighten them by feel with 3/8" ratchet but I have changed a LOT of plugs so I have a feel for it. I use the magnetic swivel extension set from KD tools and start the plugs by hand with the extension or piece of rubber hose first to make sure there is no cross threading.

 

As DKF suggests NOTHING but Motorcraft or Autolite plugs. Some will argue it doesn't matter but many times here in the Modular Motors forums plug performance is traced back to other brands.

I strongly suggest using a torque wrench because it gives a consistent reading of all plugs. Hand tightening or by feel is good enough if highly experienced but its not as reliable or repeatable as the torque wrench.

I also recommend nickle based anti-seize on the plug threads. This provides a good layer of protection between the steel plug body and aluminum head threads. This also allows a torque setting of 22-23 ft/lbs pounds---factory manuals suggest between 7-14 ft/lbs which is ridiculously low. Plugs that back off or loosen can lead to the dreaded blown out plug. Here's a link I found fascinating: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ead-heads.html

Why do you need all new COP's? Typically those are very long lived, especially the originals---I have an E250 with over 275K miles still running on most of its 2000 COP's. The boots might need replaced, I use NAPA's #702418 Belden USA made.

 

You're gonna find that, even around here, asking for the proper spark plug torque setting is likely to start a spirited debate!

I, personally, go with 24 ft-lb WITH anti-seize on the threads.

 

I have been debating new coils for a year now. We lost the PCM on a trip to Florida last year (obsolete part .. camped out 3 days at a Ford garage while they found an aftermarket one).

When I asked why it died, I got lots of possible answers. One that kept coming up was that I had a bad coil. This made sense since I still had a miss on all the trip and when I got back, the local garage found a dead coil.

Once that was fixed it ran great for a few months then I got a miss again. Again, it turned out to be a bad coil.

Now I am getting a miss .... a third coil possibly?

It the cost of having a shop put in one coil at at time, I may was well just replace them all. I found that I think is a "good deal". They are suppose to be new OEM replacement coils ....hmmmm ... I was leery ... but I wrote down the numbers on the coils and called Ford. Sure enough, the engineering number is correct for a DG-508 coil (the newest number ... Ford said it has changed 5 times since 1999).

So I am putting in new coils, boots, and plugs.

I changed the plugs when I got the RV about 7 or 8 years ago. I used NGK double platinum. I think this was a mistake.

I am planning to buy the specified MotorCraft SP-479 plugs. Do you all agree this is the correct ones to get? Is there a better MotorCraft plug ... these are only single platinum?

The RV now has about 110K on it (had about 70K when I got it). We actually lived in it for three years here in VT (not easy when winter temps hit -30) onsite while building an accessible house. Not easy but we saved 36 months rent and put that toward the house.

We actually use the RV a lot more than most people. Because my wife needs care every 4 hours, we use it even on short day trips ... even just for going to the next town if we can't be back in 4 hours.

I have put a lot of work into the conversion (did most of it myself). It's old but I am hoping to keep it on the road for a number of years to come.

Thanks ..... Mike

 

40,000 miles in 7-8 years?
You need a little more "recreation" in your recreational vehicle.

 

I'm not sure one bad COP can or would ruin the PCM---that's far fetched. When this repair shop replaced the PCM and though it was cooked due the one bad COP why did they not replace that at the same time?

As for brands and pricing of COP's etc----you'll get pretty much what you pay for. Overall I'd guess those of use having used the cheaper COP's and had them fail learn this lesson quickly, most of us trying to save others that hassle. Sure better quality costs more but unreliable parts can stress a budget quickly, reliability also being a huge issue.

I'd use either Motorcraft COP's or NAPA's better versions---having used both they're so far excellent. New boots I'd also recommend NAPA #702418 although the COP's from NAPA come with some sort of boot---it was a bit too stiff for my liking.

I'm currently running several original to the vehicle COP's with over 225K miles and climbing, those parts doing just fine.

HTH

 

I know next to nothing about motorhomes - does your unit have an OBD port?

 

The Motorcraft single platinum plugs are fine. I tend to favor the Motorcraft platinum plugs over the Autolite single platinum because they are nickel plated. I usually buy all my plugs, boots, COPs, etc from rock Auto.

I don't like to leave plugs in a long time because it seems to me like they don't ground quite a good after being in say 5 years. I figure crud, corrosion film etc can take its toll around the threads.

Coils can go bad however IMO coils are usually blamed for issues elsewhere. Like a bad COP boot, spring or plug, bad connection at the connector, bad fuel etc may be the actual culprit. I usually replace boots at least every other plug change unless a long period of time passes. On a 1999 model it probably would be good to change plugs, boots and springs. Buy a few Motorcraft COPs to keep on hand. It only takes a few minutes to swap out a COP assembly , even on the road. However keep in mind with the age of the vehicle the connector that plugs into the COP can get brittle and/or corroded over time so having a spare pigtail or two on handle would not hurt either.

When I go on longer trips I also take along a Scan tool so if I get a code I can check it.

 

I was actually quite surprised to have my PCM go. We got from VT to the FL line and then the "service soon" light came on ... engine went into limp mode.

The dealer said half the engine (one bank) was not firing. It would not have been a big problem but the PCM is obsolete from Ford. They found an aftermarket one in PA.

I do think it was almost impossible for a coil to kill a PCM (otherwise everyone would need a PCM when I coil died) but I did have two coils fail and I think another is going. I go a great buy ( list is something like $75 each ... I got them for $23 with boots and springs ) for real MotorCraft coils so may as well just change everything ... less than one being replaced at the local shop.

I do need a scan tool .... and maybe I need to start a new post .... but every time I start looking for one I get totally confused!

My problem is my budget .... I am sure if I spend a grand, I can find one but all the ones in the $50 to $250 range seem to have some features but miss others.

From what I read (and maybe you guys can clue me in), in 1999, trucks ( and my RV ) have a OBD II plug but and OBD I system ?????

I am having a very very strange problem with my transmission ( again maybe another post ... seems to work fine but if I sit and idle for a while it goes into an extremely hard shift mode ... actually gets rubber at all shift points ... I stop, shut if off, start again and we are fine .... it does this consistently!!!!!!!!!!).

Anyway, so I want a reader that does engine and transmission codes.

Also, I see some do sensors ... I guess I want that.

Finally, my wife's new van (2012 Chrysler Caravan) has multiple commuters in it (CAN I think it is call) so I want to read this

I see some say they read anti-lock brake codes ... I have had a sensor go bad so I can use this.

Another said it read emissions .... thought they all did this but maybe not ... I live in the very "green" state of VT so will need this too.

WOW ... so in this price range will any reader do all these things???????

I don't mind spending the money but I just don't know which unit will do all these things.

Thanks for he heads up on the plugs ... didn't even think of that (should have, I have had more bad electrical connection than I thought possible ... these RV's are just not meant for winter snow and salt).

We do need a bit more time off but it won't happen this year. As I said, we lived in this RV for three years while building the house to save rent. I have a 3000 sq ft pad poured already for shop. I want to put one up with high enough doors to get this RV inside. I am a machinist by trade so one bay will have all my large machines in it (lathes, mills, ....).

Just FYI ... here is a link to a site that shows pictures of the house building projected .. and the VT weather we survived (RV's are not meant for -30): https://makethejourneycount.wordpress.com/

Also, but if anyone missed the link above, here is a link to the RV project: https://mcsele.shutterfly.com/2299

It also shows why I haven't started the house yet .... I am converting the mast and hydraulics off an electric forklift into an elevator ($40K for a bought unit ... $850 for a used working forklift).

Thanks ..... Mike

 

I have an Actron Autoscanner CP9580A. It shows more codes than most others in the price range but I don't know its ability to pick up trans codes. Usually you need much more expensive professional grade readers for trans codes. Actron has a new CP9680 out now with more features. The older Super Duty, E-series, etc have an ODBII port but run OBD-I I believe, but the readers for OBDII work.

 

Yep, yep and double yep----E-Series from '97 forward are all OBD-II.

Here's two CP9680's:

Stupid great price, new unit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-20...069706&vxp=mtr


And decent price for gently used: Actron CP9680 Autoscanner Plus OBD II ABS Airbag Scan Tool with Color Screen | eBay With an auction sniper this one might be had for the $120 opening price. Free shipping to!

If I truly needed one either would have already been gone---my CP-9580 works fine for me.

 

Thanks guys!

I will definitely keep an eye on both!

It is about time to get one. Up till now I really didn't need one. I only had one light ever come on in the RV before last year and my 30 year old truck does not have a computer.

Now that the RV is starting to give me trouble, it is time for a scanner!

Mike