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3G alternator question

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Old Apr 13, 2016 | 04:19 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by hillcountryflt
Hey Ultra, you would not have a part number for your alternator and pulley would you? I would be running the same setup, I think, on my rebuild. Don't know if I will touch my 69 or not.
Don't know any numbers off the top of my head.
My 130 amp 3G alternator, charge wire/harness and mega fuse came from a 3.8L '94 Mustang. I got the 2 groove V-belt pulley from a 1G alternator that was on a truck in the wrecking yard. I remember seeing maybe a couple more 2 groove alternator pulleys out there.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2016 | 05:19 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by hillcountryflt
Hey Ultra, you would not have a part number for your alternator and pulley would you? I would be running the same setup, I think, on my rebuild. Don't know if I will touch my 69 or not.
The only number I do know is for the lower alternator bracket for a 240/300 engine. On my '69 240, the lower bracket number stamped on it is C9AE-C.

This is my original lower alternator bracket.




This bracket will need to be extended for the installation of the 3G alternator. In the following instructions, it shows to add the extended length on the end of the bracket that attaches to the engine....



....I went a little different direction and didn't do it like this. I extended the length of the slotted end. I didn't want to cut or alter my original lower bracket. I found two lower brackets at the wrecking yard with the same identical C9AE-C stamping on them. I cut the slotted end off one of the donor brackets and butt welded it to the slotted end of the other donor bracket.

Slotted end cut off one of the donor brackets....



....and I welded it to the slotted end of the other donor bracket.



When I got my wrecking yard 3G alternator, I took it to the parts store to get it tested. It was putting out over 14 volts but, it had an obvious (rear) bearing problem. I tore the alternator down, bead blasted the case, painted it (Cast Aluminum) and I painted the outer edge of the diode frame (Ford Semi Gloss Black). I installed new front and rear bearings and put it back together. --the brushes were in good shape and didn't need replacing.

Alternator broken down and the case halves bead blasted.



The (larger) front alternator bearing I used is NAPA part number P63032RSJ. The (smaller) rear bearing I used is National Bearings part number 100-CC4.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2021 | 04:24 PM
  #18  
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Hey guys I hope I can get a response promptly but I found this at a junk yard and think it would be cool to use a 3g alternator for my 86. This is a 96 f150. Can anyone confirm this to be a 3g and if it’s worth picking up even if I recently put a new 2g on my 86 bronco? Thanks
 
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Old Mar 13, 2021 | 04:24 PM
  #19  
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Old Mar 13, 2021 | 05:32 PM
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From the picture it does not appear to be the correct bolt pattern - won't bolt up to the old style brackets. Try Mustangs, some Taurus models, and do a search to find donors. If you look at the pulley end you can see a series of holes that will indicate the amp rating. Keep hunting...
 
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Old Mar 13, 2021 | 05:35 PM
  #21  
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Yeah you don't want that one. Has to be the swing pivot style case
 
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Old Mar 14, 2021 | 10:54 AM
  #22  
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It sounds like the 130a 3g is challenging to run with one belt.

Would there be any advantage to running the 95a instead of the 130a 3g alternator due to the fact that on mine there is water pump, air conditioning, and power steering taking up all three pulley grooves?

I didn’t know if the 130a would be overkill for power needs and would require two belts, while a 95a might take less torque/ only need one belt. Would a 95a 3g adequately supply power and still worth the upgrade from 2G?

Running occasional AC and relayed pertronix, but mostly stock on everything else.

Sorry to hijack with this question!
 
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Old Mar 14, 2021 | 01:39 PM
  #23  
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Here is some info, that I think came from "UltraRanger":Some donor vehicles you'll find a 3G in.

94-96 Mustang 3.8 V-6
94-95 Mustang 5.0
94-96 Thunderbird 3.8 V-6 (non SC)
95-96 Windstar 3.0 V-6 (most are 3.8's)
93-96 E/F series Trucks/Vans 4.9 L6
96 Sable 3.0 V-6
94-96 Cougar 3.8 V-6

Go with the 3G. it will work with a single pulley, if that's all you can find for now.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2021 | 09:26 AM
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With that stimulus package, you could purchase a new 3G Alternator for a 94 Mustang with 5.0, then purchase the Painless Wire harness for the 3G Upgrade and be done. Then you'll have an unlimited warranty for the alternator versus a junkyard find. Just a thought.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2021 | 02:46 PM
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I'm buying a new Eldenbrock intake with my stimulus money.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2021 | 02:48 PM
  #26  
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Walmart.com has the 150 Amp breakers on sale! Clearance! Fuses Reset 12-48V DC Auto Marine Waterproof For Car Repair Accessories Car Repair Parts Repplacement Auto Replacement Part Fuse
 
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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 10:21 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by stpackard
It sounds like the 130a 3g is challenging to run with one belt.

Would there be any advantage to running the 95a instead of the 130a 3g alternator due to the fact that on mine there is water pump, air conditioning, and power steering taking up all three pulley grooves?

I didn’t know if the 130a would be overkill for power needs and would require two belts, while a 95a might take less torque/ only need one belt. Would a 95a 3g adequately supply power and still worth the upgrade from 2G?

Running occasional AC and relayed pertronix, but mostly stock on everything else.

Sorry to hijack with this question!
I recently upgraded my '91 F150 to a 95 amp 3G alternator. It keeps it at 14v most of the time even with a/c, fan, stereo, and electric engine fan all running. At night when I have all of this running and turn on headlights and fog lights it drops to about 13.6v... still more than enough. I think you'll be fine with a 95 amp. I'm happy with mine.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 12:32 PM
  #28  
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Mikuhl, thanks for the helpful tip!

Originally Posted by Mikulh
I recently upgraded my '91 F150 to a 95 amp 3G alternator. It keeps it at 14v most of the time even with a/c, fan, stereo, and electric engine fan all running. At night when I have all of this running and turn on headlights and fog lights it drops to about 13.6v... still more than enough. I think you'll be fine with a 95 amp. I'm happy with mine.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 01:19 PM
  #29  
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I have a 3g in my 68 mustang 302 and hated i had to go to dual belts to make it happy. Found cvf racing makes a budget kit for $20 that lets you use a 10si alt https://www.cvfracing.com/adapter-ki...n-ford-engines. Figure since they where designed around v belts it would be ideal. Installing it this weekend on my fe 360 using a tuff stuff 140amp 1 wire alt.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2021 | 08:27 PM
  #30  
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Was going to add this to your other thread, but here seems appropriate. It does seem that the Delco alternators don't have the same squeal issues as the Ford alternators do. Even the "lowly" 70a and 105a large-case 1G alternators benefit from dual belts.
Not sure why this is, unless the internals are heavier weight in the ford alternators, or maybe the GM alternators have some built-in "soft start" technology that helps the belts stay put. But I hear way fewer complaints with the GM based alternators than i do the Ford.
However, I'm not ready to convert yet. The Ford alternators are very nicely designed and seem to be well thought of other than the squealing on start-up with V-belts.

Not a big deal for me because I even use dual v-belts on my old Bronco with 70a 1g alternator setup. And after that, all my Windsor family engines get an Explorer serpentine setup with 3g alternator anyway.

Paul
 
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