Timbren SES Kit
#1
#3
I had Timbrens on my 2004 F250. They worked well. They were relatively cheap too. And they don't affect unloaded ride much. Only if suspension moves more than about an inch. Then they hit the bump stop perch and can make a slight jarring affect. But only under extreme suspension travel. Generally not a problem on paved roads.
On my current truck I did air bags AND added a set of TorkLift StableLoads.
They make your overload springs engage sooner. And when you're not towing, you dis-engage them and you're back to a stock ride.
May be a little more expensive than Timbrens, but I like them more.
If I had to choose ONE rear suspension upgrade to improve my towing it would be the StableLoads.
Disclaimer: I have recommended StableLoads in a few different threads today. NO I do not work for, or have an interest in the company. I am not paid to endorse them either. They just work.
On my current truck I did air bags AND added a set of TorkLift StableLoads.
They make your overload springs engage sooner. And when you're not towing, you dis-engage them and you're back to a stock ride.
May be a little more expensive than Timbrens, but I like them more.
If I had to choose ONE rear suspension upgrade to improve my towing it would be the StableLoads.
Disclaimer: I have recommended StableLoads in a few different threads today. NO I do not work for, or have an interest in the company. I am not paid to endorse them either. They just work.
#5
Thanks for bringing this product up again. I keep forgetting about it.
My totally stock, base, stripper 2015 Supercab F250 spend half its miles filling in as DD when I have my other car down. The other half the miles tows my 24' car hauler at about 9000#, loaded nose heavy with the weight distributing hitch. Am I right is assuming this is just the ticket unless I want to go full blown air bags.
My totally stock, base, stripper 2015 Supercab F250 spend half its miles filling in as DD when I have my other car down. The other half the miles tows my 24' car hauler at about 9000#, loaded nose heavy with the weight distributing hitch. Am I right is assuming this is just the ticket unless I want to go full blown air bags.
#6
#7
Thanks for bringing this product up again. I keep forgetting about it.
My totally stock, base, stripper 2015 Supercab F250 spend half its miles filling in as DD when I have my other car down. The other half the miles tows my 24' car hauler at about 9000#, loaded nose heavy with the weight distributing hitch. Am I right is assuming this is just the ticket unless I want to go full blown air bags.
My totally stock, base, stripper 2015 Supercab F250 spend half its miles filling in as DD when I have my other car down. The other half the miles tows my 24' car hauler at about 9000#, loaded nose heavy with the weight distributing hitch. Am I right is assuming this is just the ticket unless I want to go full blown air bags.
Google StableLoad A7310 set.... that's what you need.
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#8
Thanks for bringing this product up again. I keep forgetting about it.
My totally stock, base, stripper 2015 Supercab F250 spend half its miles filling in as DD when I have my other car down. The other half the miles tows my 24' car hauler at about 9000#, loaded nose heavy with the weight distributing hitch. Am I right is assuming this is just the ticket unless I want to go full blown air bags.
My totally stock, base, stripper 2015 Supercab F250 spend half its miles filling in as DD when I have my other car down. The other half the miles tows my 24' car hauler at about 9000#, loaded nose heavy with the weight distributing hitch. Am I right is assuming this is just the ticket unless I want to go full blown air bags.
#9
Finally, yes but only short distance to relocate (30 miles total). The squat is significant with just me in the truck (but MUCH better than my former truck).
Not a concern short term with the next two tows I am solo plus my 80# dog but come fall, it is three corn-fed Midwesterners, said dog, 300#'s in the bed for a round trip of about 2000 miles.
My main concern is keeping the hitch point as level as possible due to the low ride height of the trailer on the less than optimal bridge approaches on the local interstates. It is bad enough I am considering rear rollers on adjacent the ramp door. Basically, the approach dips down and the bridge aims up. If the rear suspension does not compress significantly at that transition, all is well. If it does, the trailer frame scrapes.
Air bags are the obvious option if this proves to be an issue stock but it seems excessive for an honestly limited issue.
Edit: Part of those 30 miles were doing the adjustments to the WD hitch angle so the torsion bars were doing the max distribution. I ended up with 2.5" rear squat and a little over an inch front. Rebalancing the load is an option but due to what we carry and why, there is only so much that can be done.
Not a concern short term with the next two tows I am solo plus my 80# dog but come fall, it is three corn-fed Midwesterners, said dog, 300#'s in the bed for a round trip of about 2000 miles.
My main concern is keeping the hitch point as level as possible due to the low ride height of the trailer on the less than optimal bridge approaches on the local interstates. It is bad enough I am considering rear rollers on adjacent the ramp door. Basically, the approach dips down and the bridge aims up. If the rear suspension does not compress significantly at that transition, all is well. If it does, the trailer frame scrapes.
Air bags are the obvious option if this proves to be an issue stock but it seems excessive for an honestly limited issue.
Edit: Part of those 30 miles were doing the adjustments to the WD hitch angle so the torsion bars were doing the max distribution. I ended up with 2.5" rear squat and a little over an inch front. Rebalancing the load is an option but due to what we carry and why, there is only so much that can be done.
#12
#13
Granted they are precision cut, machined, beveled, powder-coated, come pre-built, easy bolt on, with all the necessary mounting and pivot hardware, etc....
Yes, they are just pieces of plate steel and nuts and bolts.
Before I bought a set, I actually made a set of DIY stableload wedges out of some treated 2x4 lumber. I shoved the wedges in the gap between the main leaf and the overload leaf and secured them in place with a wood screw thru the hole in the main leaf.
I then went and got my 5th wheel out of storage and drug it around for several miles to see how it felt.
The theory worked. And worked well.
If you have the tools and materials you could easily make something yourself. Unfortunately for me, I didn't. It was easier for me to just buy a set.
Best $208.95 I spent on truck mods in a long time LOL!
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S5snake
Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Tires, & Wheels
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11-28-2007 09:07 PM