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So i have a 2000 ford ranger 2wd 4cyl .190k miles.
My issue is the motor has a very rough/shaking idle,abs light on,and check engine light on.it also continues to blow fuses to the tail lights and dash, haha
Ive had it since it was at 40k and has been a great truck,although lately i have really neglected it.ive changed the spark plugs and new wires new timing chain. But can anyone tell me if these problems are related? Maybe a little advice on where to start would be great.id love to start trouble shooting some of this stuff this weekend if the weather holds up.
Thanks
Welcome to FTE.
You seem to have more than one problem.
Have the computer scanned for trouble code clues & post All code Numbers, as they can help focus a trouble shoot.
I see your in Ca., so if the auto parts stores still can't scan the computer for you, come by a ELM scan tool, running FORScan or the like software on the viewing device of your choice as discussed here, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-scantool.html & have it perform an in depth scan of All of the vehicle computer/controllers, including the ABS system, as most auto parts store code readers/scan tools can't read ABS codes.
Then post up All code Numbers & the forum can offer up informed suggestions on what best to next look into.
Welcome to FTE.
You seem to have more than one problem.
Have the computer scanned for trouble code clues & post All code Numbers, as they can help focus a trouble shoot.
I see your in Ca., so if the auto parts stores still can't scan the computer for you, come by a ELM scan tool, running FORScan or the like software on the viewing device of your choice as discussed here, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-scantool.html & have it perform an in depth scan of All of the vehicle computer/controllers, including the ABS system, as most auto parts store code readers/scan tools can't read ABS codes.
Then post up All code Numbers & the forum can offer up informed suggestions on what best to next look into.
Hey i appriciate the quick response.we brought the truck down to a shop a few months ago to have it scanned,but the guy said his scan tool could not read our computer ,or couldnt sync up or somthing.i think i have read somewhere about the cigarette lighter fuse being blown will trip up the scan tool.i don't know this to be true but for some reason he could not pull any codes from our truck.
Yes, if the cigar lighter fuse is blown, the DLC for the scan tool also gets its power through that fuse, so if the fuse is blown, the scan tool can't power up. So, check/replace the cigar lighter fuse at it's in cabin/drivers side dash fuse panel #17 location, a 25 amp fuse.
Yes, if the cigar lighter fuse is blown, the DLC for the scan tool also gets its power through that fuse, so if the fuse is blown, the scan tool can't power up. So, check/replace the cigar lighter fuse at it's in cabin/drivers side dash fuse panel #17 location, a 25 amp fuse.
Perfect thanks,i will do and i will pick up a scan tool and post codes.
Perfect thanks,i will do and i will pick up a scan tool and post codes.
Ok well,i got a obd2 scan too performance tools.hooked it up ,and it scanned i assume and says "0 DTC's" so basically no codes recovered. What the hell haha.check engine lights still on and still running rough at idle.any help?
says "0 DTC's" so basically no codes recovered. What the hell haha.check engine lights still on and still running rough at idle.any help?
If you haven't, try this:
Unhook the battery for a good half hour, hook it back up and try to again read the code when your check engine light comes on.
Reconsider opting for the inexpensive ELM scan tool mentioned in post-2 & running FORScan on the viewing device of your choice, have it take a look & post up All code Number clues found, as it can have a deeper look than most aftermarket code readers, or scan tools.
Reconsider opting for the inexpensive ELM scan tool mentioned in post-2 & running FORScan on the viewing device of your choice, have it take a look & post up All code Number clues found, as it can have a deeper look than most aftermarket code readers, or scan tools.
Yeh i was gonna buy one but i read about hooking it to phones and software. ..and im not good at figuring out technology ****. Maybe ill try it.
The ELM doesn't connect to phones. Connect to it wireless via WiFi, or Bluetooth on your laptop. Or if that's too much for you right now, opt for the corded USB model & plug it directly into the laptop, but you'll have to be in the vehicle at cords length to use it, if that doesn't bother you. The ELM & running FORScan on your viewing device is Way more capable than most aftermarket scan tools, or a code reader that can't access sensor PID's, the ABS system, Tranny computer, Body computer, ect, ect. Heck if I can figure it out & use it, bet you can too!!!! It can save us Way more than its cost, on the first trouble shoot & repair.
The ELM doesn't connect to phones. Connect to it wireless via WiFi, or Bluetooth on your laptop. Or if that's too much for you right now, opt for the corded USB model & plug it directly into the laptop, but you'll have to be in the vehicle at cords length to use it, if that doesn't bother you. The ELM & running FORScan on your viewing device is Way more capable than most aftermarket scan tools, or a code reader that can't access sensor PID's, the ABS system, Tranny computer, Body computer, ect, ect. Heck if I can figure it out & use it, bet you can too!!!! It can save us Way more than its cost, on the first trouble shoot & repair.
Well i gotmy scan tool to work,1 code came up pending .p0301...in the booklet it calls out (cylinder one misfire detected ) sound about right?
A cylinder misfire can be cause by a number of things, seeing as the plugs & wires were messed with last, check the #1 plug wire to make sure its connected securely on Both ends & the plug is torqued to spec, spark plug insulator is clean & not chipped or cracked. If all looks ok, raise the hood at night & at warm idle, look for an arcs & sparks light show & use a spray bottle of water along the plug wire on the plug boot, to see if you can induce a rough idle, or a light show from weak/faulty insulation.
If all that checks out, have a listen to #1 fuel injector to determine if it sounds different than the others.
If that checks out, have a listen to the valves to determine if #1 cyl sounds different than the others. If it does, hook up your vacuum gauge & scroll down to see which scenario here How to Use and Interpret a Vacuum Gauge you might have.
If your scan tool will perform a cyl balance test, have it do that & see if it'll flag #1, or perform a compression test on #1.
By then you should have a good idea what's going on, so post up your findings.
In addition to everything PawPaw said you might try cleaning your MAF (mass air flow sensor). You can pick up a can for 5-10 bucks.
My truck was running really sluggish and getting subpar mileage. I changed the plugs and soon after got a cyl misfire code. Cleaning my MAF cleared up my code and helped my trucks mileage and power pick up a bit.
Been meaning to do that, I'm cheap enough, Naptha should work fine, no? Residue-free is the key correct. As far as the procedure how often. Pics? Think I've seen some YT videos on this.
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