stumbling idle & check engine

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Apr 22, 2016 | 12:48 AM

#16

Thinlizzy13

Tuned

Joined: Jun 2011

Posts: 355

Likes: 1

From: CNY

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tedster9

Been meaning to do that, I'm cheap enough, Naptha should work fine, no? Residue-free is the key correct. As far as the procedure how often. Pics? Think I've seen some YT videos on this.

Yea you just wanna get any of the grime/soot looking dirtiness off the little metal strand in the MAF. There's two. The second one is harder to get to. I sprayed it and let it dry several times. Then I sprayed it and *GENTLY* rubbed it with a Q tip several times. Did a final spray and dry and reinstalled it.
I clean mine every oil change now.

Also an important thing to note is on my truck (2003) the screws holding the MAF in place were the safety star head, the kind you see holding bathroom stalls together. So you can either pick up a set of those or if you have a steady hand, a Dremel, and normal star bolt heads you can dremel off the "safety stud" in the middle. I did that. Buying the special bolt heads would be easy but I didn't feel like driving another hour and spending another 15$ lol.

Apr 22, 2016 | 02:41 AM

#17

Tedster9

Post Fiend

Joined: Apr 2002

Posts: 19,311

Likes: 97

From: Waterloo, Iowa

Those Bahstids! Safety star fasteners... What wizardry is this?

Apr 22, 2016 | 07:46 AM

#18

pawpaw

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Joined: Jan 2004

Posts: 13,851

Likes: 111

From: SW Va

CRC MAF spray cleaner is recommended, as its non residual, plastic safe & formulated just for cleaning MAF sensors.
Who knows what grade the Naphtha is, or what may be dissolved in it.
Seeing as how the MAF sensor is down stream of & is to only see clean filtered air, if its getting dirty we need to ask why & look up stream to the air filter, air box & air tube, for the Specified filter & proper fit, undamaged, unmodified air box & air tube, all of which are properly buttoned up using All of the factory installed fasteners.

Apr 22, 2016 | 10:17 AM

#19

Tedster9

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Joined: Apr 2002

Posts: 19,311

Likes: 97

From: Waterloo, Iowa

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawpaw

CRC MAF spray cleaner is recommended, as its non residual, plastic safe & formulated just for cleaning MAF sensors.

I agree with you but when I see the MSDS shows it is 90% Naptha, I bet it works just fine.

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Apr 22, 2016 | 11:00 AM

#20

pawpaw

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Joined: Jan 2004

Posts: 13,851

Likes: 111

From: SW Va

It's your MAF sensor, so you can clean it however & with whatever you like but are you certain your naphtha is the proper grade, has remained uncontaminated from its former containers??? If in doubt don't use it.

Apr 22, 2016 | 12:15 PM

#21

Tedster9

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Joined: Apr 2002

Posts: 19,311

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From: Waterloo, Iowa

I'm more pissed about the proprietary fasteners than anything, assuming my 2009 XLT has those as well. Under 30k miles, so it may not be too bad but I'd like to at least take a gander at it. Do they look cruddy when they need cleaning?

Apr 24, 2016 | 09:32 AM

#22

ranger93

Senior User

Joined: Feb 2005

Posts: 221

Likes: 0

From: Hooterville

#1 cylinder misfire can also be caused by a blown diaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator mounted on the fuel rail. It pulls vacuum from the #1 cylinder and if the diaphragm is shot, it fouls out that cylinder. Spark plug will be black while the rest are normal looking.

Apr 24, 2016 | 10:53 AM

#23

pawpaw

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Joined: Jan 2004

Posts: 13,851

Likes: 111

From: SW Va

Quote:

Originally Posted by ranger93

Lets think about this some more. On the OP's 2000 Ranger, since 1998> the fuel pressure regulator has been moved to the fuel tank as part of the fuel pump assembly, only the pulse damper can remains attached to the fuel rail, but its diaphragm can fail, have intake vacuum suck in unmetered fuel & corrupt fuel trim. To check, remove its vacuum line to see if its wet inside with fuel, if so, replace the damper.