I have the E series van with a 110 alternator. I plan on replacing serpentine belt and servicing the turbo. I found a parts dismantler that has a 6g 140 amp alternator in good condition that came off a government fleet van. Is this a good alternative?

Nothing is wrong with my 110 amp alternator.

The reason why I am looking for a higher amp alternator is because I am connecting a 3rd isolated battery to run a small fridge. It will be charging while driving the vehicle via a CTEK D250S battery charger. A solar panel is going on the roof to charge the house battery when we camp that will continue to charge the battery through the CTEK.

Not sure how robust the 110 alternator is. Is it capable of charging 3 batteries while driving?

I had a hot rod shop test the alternator and batteries while having the battery cable repaired and both tested good.

I understand there are 100,000s of thousands of vans and trucks on the road with the 110 amp. I was just thinking that since I will have so much stuff removed for the serpentine belt replacement and turbo servicing, I could replace the alternator. Working on the van is a PITA and one learns to do multiple repairs and services at the same time.

 

The 140a is a good alternative especially if you use a smaller diameter pulley. With that combination the output at idle is a 125a which provides what the glow plugs will require after their initial 200a warmup plus what the engine control systems will require, so the voltage will climb slowly but positively. Once the GPs pop off in ~90 seconds the batts will take what they can accept, so that and the system is well under the alternators output. If you turned on all factory accessories, at idle that will be maxed out during the first 10 minutes until the batteries accept the majority of their recharge.

The third battery will change that dynamic depending on if it will be connected without an isolator, and of course depending on how much charging it will require during engine run time. If it's like most trailer batteries that are not that active, then it's demand is pretty low and a minimal burden on the charging system.

 

Excellent response. I will look at your Facebook page. The alternator is coming off a van that is stripped out because the government says it needs replacement. I am taking a set of head lights too as mine are fogged.

 

I found your graph. It's for the Bosch 140 amp alternator. Will the results be similar for Ford? Does Bosch use the small or large case?

I found a new US built 140 AMP made by Quick Start in Michigan. The owner uses larger cases.

"The larger diameter stator and overall increased mass allows the alternator to generator more power at slower speeds. Where a small case alternator only starts puting out extra power at near highway speeds, our large case units put out as much as 60% rated output at 650 RPM idle."

 

Any 140a alternator should have the same result. The Bosch has a larger case and with the smaller pulley it's output trends at 89% of its rating at idle.

 

Startup and idle voltage are a concern as I don't want to knock another FICM out.

 

With the 140a as you saw its better then the 110a, and as long as anyone waits the 90 seconds before turning on accessories it not the issue the 110a has.

Now if you want to make sure there are no issues then the low cost option is to get a Leece-Neville 230a unit off ebay. They pop up for around discounted at $260 often enough and with the stock pulley will output 180-200a at idle. In fact, I would not recommend using a small pulley as you just don't need it. You could put a bank of aux batteries in the back for camping with one of those. But with either of these choices it's advisable to add an additional cable and fuse between the alternator and battery. The factory is fine for 110a, you can squeak by with the 140a, but there really needs to be a larger pathway for the extra current. An 8ga is more then enough for the 140a, 6ga for the 230a. You can go bigger though. 2ga is way more then enough.

The 230a unit is much larger and my only concern with a van since I've never checked it is for hood clearance.

 

Too Many Toys suggested this 140 AMP Bosch alternator sold on Amazon for $147. It's less than the cost of the used Ford OEM alternator. No guarantees at all on the used one.

I am almost ready to pull the buying trigger. Please chime in if you have bought or heard anything positive or negative about this alternator.

I am doing some major work including changing oil and EGR coolers, servicing the turbo, IPR coolant filter, serpentine belt replacement, etc.

The graph that Too Many Toys has on his Facebook page about his Bosch alternator is a game changer. I would like to see the same graph for the Ford OEM 110 amp alternator.

 

I will stick with the Bosch 140 amp alternator.

You mentioned something about adding a cable back to the battery. I read this in the Amazon comments:

"f installing on a Ford 6.0 diesel, there are two other things you should do. First, also order a smaller diameter pully for the alternator. They're also on Amazon. The smaller pully gives you higher output at an idle because the alternator turns faster. Second, From the green output connection on the back of the alternator, run a second red / positive cable to the positive terminal on the driver's side battery. The cable needs to be 19" long from eye to eye on the terminals. We have a good shop in Anchorage that makes cables while you wait for a few minutes - Go Polar Wire. Preferably have the cable made from #6 cable. Leave the factory cable in place. The problem with it is Ford went really cheap on a small cable, it can't carry the amperage needed. There's room on both the alternator and battery terminal to install the second cable. "

I really don't do electrical work. How do I fuse the cable? Seems like a good idea.

 

If you search here I've posted a fair amount about both the extra wire and fusing.

 

Is the overdrive pulley a good idea for this alternator?

<table class="vi-centerclass"> <tbody><tr> <td style="text-align:centervertical-align:top;" width="">
</td></tr></tbody></table>"OVERDRIVE 8 GROOVE PULLEY Gain output @ idle in some apps FORD ALTERNATOR 6g 3g "

 

Yes, that's what I meant by small pulley.

 

Let me pay-it-forward a bit because Jack has helped me a bunch on balancing my charging system already.

Go to this site and buy your pre-made-up marine grade cables, fuse block and fuse. Here is the in-line fuse block:

MRBF Fuse Block CFBAR1-250SP Single 1/4 inch Post Fuse Holder Genuinedealz.com

And the fuse, size is what I decided to use:

Blue Sea Systems 5180 Battery Terminal Fuse 75 Amp Genuinedealz.com

You need to measure your cable length, I'm making my own up for this piece of my charging puzzle, but you should just figure out your run, especially on a Van (I assume they have the same problem as the trucks with the load imbalance between the batts), so it would be your passenger rail one you are going to. On the trucks and on a 140A alt 1/4" (hole) terminal ends work on both the batt and alt end. Just go for it and get a 6 gauge cable, price isn't really an issue and you could always step up to a LN 230 with this set-up, unless it is a really long run. Once you figure it out go to the same site and find what you need under their custom cables. Make sure you get the glue/heat shrink ends...

Enjoy the testing/knowledge Jack has done for us!!!

 

Thanks for all the help. My batteries are both mounted on the frame rail. It takes a hydraulic jack to get them down. I will measure and order the cables. What about an extra ground cable?

I visited the sight Diesel Dan linked to and I have to say it was the easiest and most straightforward sites I have ever been to for connecting batteries. No other site explained how Anderson connectors work. When you configure a custom battery cable it loads a picture.

I know what I need with the exception of the "eye to eye" cable end size for the battery. I have to drop the battery box to get the size.

I think I should is 4 GA wire as the cable is only $1 a foot.

I ordered the Bosch 140 amp alternator from Amazon as it was the last one available.

 

Scott, thanks for jumping in here.

That definitely is a good vendor and while I drifted away from him to another he has some good options that my current supplier does not.

Before you get the 4ga, post here how long the cable would be that you need. The van having those batteries on the frame changes cable sizing. When my legs warm up so I can head downstairs I'll see if my computer has the E's diagrams so I can see if the alternator output goes direct to batt or connect some where's else, like at the starter.

On edit, my DVD only has the 7.3l van, so I can't help with the locations. But when you find the info I can help from there.