I know you didn't ask me, but like I said before: I'd run the one you have and get some readings and experience with it - if it outputs fine and no other issues, buy another one to take as a spare, if you are really that worried about the Alt...

My un-asked for $.02

Scott

 

And in my defense, I'm a little gun shy of rebuild products currently with $16,000 worth of crap in my garage.

 

Thanks Scott.

My 17 year old son came to same conclusion and said to keep the 110 amp alternator as a spare. He helped remove the alternator and install 2 Odyssey 1750 batteries on the frame rail.

The 140 alternator has been sitting on my shelf since last May. I will bench test both the 110 &140 alternator at AutoZone when I take my 2 batteries back for the core refund.

I ordered the smaller pulley. I don't have an air hammer to remove the pulley. I have a Milwaukee impact drill driver. What size is the pulley nut?




Here is a photo of the 140 amp alternator. It's larger than the 110 alternator. Diesel Redemption says the sticker indicates it's remanufactured by Ford. 2 years ago, he was charging about $160 for the used alternator. Last spring, he said he would sell it for $60 when combined with other parts.

Side by side comparison. 140 alternator on left and 110 alternator on right.



Ford 140 amp alternator left & 110 amp alternator right.

 

Agreed. Ford no longer sells new 110 alternators for my van. eBay probably has new old stock available. My Ford MasterTech mechanic swears by anything made by Ford. I gave him cardiac arrest when I sent a Performance All aluminum radiator to install for me.

Since I know how to remove and install the alternator without swearing too much, I will install the 140 amp alternator and see how it rolls.

I borrowed the Gear Wrench serpentine belt from my good friend who manages the fleet for the City of San Carlos. He is a Ford MasterTech. To keep the friendship, I only ask for advice when really stuck. Last year, he and wife drove 80 miles to rescue us when the radiator cracked in the van. I never ask him to repair as moon lighting is never profitable for him at home.

Amazon sells this for about $43. Autozone and HF sell knock off for less than $20. I am buying GearWrench from Amazon to keep in my bag of recovery tools.



GearWrench Serpentine Removal Took Kit

 

In your defense, you don't need one. By me anyway...

coolfeet: what do you have to lose? A working Alt pulled is better than a new one that suffers from a run-in failure; either path you choose, make sure you have known to be good parts on and in backup positions...

Ok, now we are up to $.03 of un-asked for advice....

Scott

 

Coolfeet, not a bad plan.

Here are some comparisons between the alternators I have, and no you can't use them in your blog.

 

Jack is the real deal. Comparison photos? Ok. Front. Back. Top... and... WAIT for it....... WEIGHT.. That's thorough. That's data. That's Jack. That's what I'm m-f-king talking about.

If the ballots haven't all been counted yet, and if Russian's haven't infiltrated your polling place, I'd like to put in a strong vote NO on the overdrive pulley.

When it arrives (since that ship sailed), compare the outside diameter of the overdrive pulley to the smallest pulley in your accessory drive system, likely an idler of one of the two pulleys on your tensioner. If smaller (and I'll bet a donut that it is) then I'd like to cast another vote NO.

Smaller pulleys stress the very fabric / rubber / super mojo that your front accessory drive belt of choice is made of. The smaller diameter pulley increases the stress on the belt, stretching the back side and compressing the poly v side, and reducing the surface contact area between belt and pulley where power transfer takes place. If you like, we can get into the weeds of angular contact of belt wrap... but my head is already exploding with that math for some stationary equipment that I'm trying to redesign the pulley drive system for... and after emerging from that forest sized patch of weeds, I'd like you just to trust in the fact that you do not want a pulley too small.

If the belt that you are using has been issued by an OEM like Ford, in an application having the same diameter as the overdrive, undersized pulley you ordered, then fine, I'll stand down, and you can discard my votes. Otherwise, I would encourage you to stick with the stock pulley you remove from your existing alternator. And that isn't just because I'm a keep it stock boy. It is literally from the headache of recalculating pulley sizes for various belt types in the operation of stationary belt driven machinery. Watch out for too small of diameters... which potentially may do the longevity of the belt , the transfer of power, and yourself a disservice, depending on the specific pulley diameter you are undersizing and overdriving to.

 

Y2K, I am losing more sleep again because you present such a great case for the smaller pulley. I never thought about stressing the belt. I will check the diameter of the smallest pulley with my "calibrated" eye.

The pulleys between the 110 and the 140 are slightly different. I will attempt to remove each with my Milwaukee drill driver. It has enough torque to remove lug nuts.

 

Jack, I could make at least .50 with these photos on my blog!

Thanks for the information. What a difference in weight.

After the case presented by Y2K, I am going to send the smaller diameter pulley down the river and go with the OEM spec'd pulley. The 140 amp alternator will provide more amps at idle and maybe my AC will be colder when sitting in Bay Area traffic. I don't use it for work, so it really makes no difference. It's our traveling camping van.

 

 

With the alternator removed, the EGR is accessible. I had my mechanic remove and clean the EGR when I replaced the oil & egr coolers 30k miles ago. Should I remove and clean the EGR valve?

I am tempted to to install the IPR EGR Valve Bypass Test Plug. Never have to clean the EGR again! All I have to do is leave the EGR plugged in and zip tie it to secure place.




Since I have everything removed, I ordered fuel filters too.

Now that the engine bay is wide open, maybe I should install ARP head studs! I can dream up so many things to do. Time to stop dreaming up preventive maintenance.

 

No, seriously on the meticulous attention to detail. All the alternators clocked the same way, spaced equidistantly apart. Details that aren't just obsessive, but that actually help the mind map and orient itself between a detail being compared as the eyes glance back and forth between the thickness of a casting at a mounting point, or the distance away from 12 oclock of an electrical connector for estimating wire harness reach.

Not blowing smoke here. I'm constantly frustrated with other peoples so called comparison photos, where turbo A is backwards upside down and sideways, turbo B is forwards right side up and cross ways, and turbo C is still in the dam box. How is that a useful as a comparison photo? Some people don't get it. Jack does. Take advantage of it folks while you can, because he's been known to take down videos just as fast as he puts them up.

Well, um, I guess that isn't really THAT fast is it?

 

Where are these videos posted, on the DARK WEB?

 

I removed the140 amp alternator pulley with an impact wrench. I need shims to install the smaller diameter pulley. The pulley on the 110 amp is not as tall. Whether I use this pulley or the overdrive pulley, I will need shims. There is a 4mm difference-significant!



110 amp alternator pulley 35mm 140 amp alternator pulley 39 mm.

New Overdrive Pulley just arrived in the mail. 39 mm.



Overdrive pulley on left. Ford 140 amp pulley on right.