coolfeet: you may need the opposite - if the belt was aligned well with the 110A Alt, it will be off with either the other two. Is it possible they made that small a change to all the pulleys just for Van fitment? That is hard to believe...

On edit: check the shaft depth on each Alt...

 

The Ford 110 alternator on the right is stamped MotorCraft. The 140 amp alternator on the left does not have the MotorCraft stamp. While I am not trying to split hairs on this alternator installation, if it's not a Ford remanufactured alternator, I will spend the money and buy the Bosch alternator. I am waiting for Diesel Redemption to return the phone call. If it's not a Ford alternator, I am confident Jeff will ship me another as he does not want bad eBay ratings.

 

I verified the pulleys are in approximately the same position-1 7/16" from the alternator body. Measured same location on each alternator. Maybe 1/32" difference. I don't think Ford would have a different alternator for van fitment. Hard to believe!

 

 

 

The alternator was pulled out of a Ford van. It worked on the Ford van in the exact same position that I am installing it. Maybe it's a Ford, maybe not. I am in a good mood. My 17 year old is learning basic automotive maintenance. We will give this 140 amp alternator a go and keep the 110 alternator as a back up. It takes 30 minutes longer to install than on a truck. If it dies on the road, we will hole up in a nice campground and enjoy the time with a beer or two.

 

I wouldn't stress about the Motorcraft embossment in the slip ring end casting.

People pick up rebuilds at the wax and oil stores with the Motorcraft embossment on the slip ring end of the casting. And these rebuilt alternators were not sold as Motorcraft branded rebuilds, nor rebuilt by suppliers associated with Motorcraft. It just so happens that the core used in the rebuild was originally a FoMoCo sourced part.

There isn't always a direct correlation between the alternator frame casting and the parts inside. The stator, the rotor, the rectifier bridge, the diodes, the regulator, the slip rings... can all come from a combination of new and reused parts from any number of alternators, whether originally Motorcraft or originally a replica made in Hack Knock Cheep. When I returned my core, it was a box of loosely assembled parts from three different alternators... all the required parts were there in the box to assemble an alternator, but they were the worst, least usable parts in my inventory. The counter guy who accepted the core had a good laugh when I made him look inside before he agreed to accept the core, and then he kept chuckling as he hauled the box off to the back, after giving me back my deposit. It will get sorted out in Mexico, where they have 100,000's of new Chinese and used Motorcraft stamp parts to assemble rebuilds from.

Nowadays, slip ring end and drive end castings cost 40 to 50 cents. The are cast in China and shipped to Long Beach CA and distributed to the rebuild sweatshops in Mexico. I spoke with an importer of these things about a year ago. Think of an alternator as an assemblage of parts. When it gets rebuilt, some parts are replaced. Some are deemed worthy of reuse. Like a box of chocolates, you never know what is inside.

If the alternator you have in hand works, then run it. No since in stressing about getting a used one with a Motorcraft embossment, because the guts of THAT one could have all knock off parts inside, and how would you know?









.

 

 

I stay up at night scheming up ways to keep Coolfeet up at night.

 

ok, it is freezing cold with snow and hail, but for a 6.0 brother to sleep at night, I trekked out to the RV shelter and looked at the back of my: ordered-from-the-factory, stock Ford 140A Alt. And there are no markings indicating anything about origin of manufacture (particularly anything remotely like the word "Motorcraft" stamped in the casting). None, Nada, and it has the same off white wiring yours does, coolfeet...

And while I was there I thought I'd go ahead and plug in the CTEK 4.3 you turned me on to (alright, so maybe I had ulterior motives for going out there) - truck has sat over a week and a half. Plus I plugged the Toyota and the Expy into charge maintainers as well...

Also there was the motivation of keeping Y2K up at night -- dreaming up ways to keep coolfeet up, who tonight will have his coolfeet up in the air snoring away....

Scott

 

I connected the ground to the batteries and buttoned almost everything up. The van fired right up. Gave my son $10 for finding the 1/2" square plug used for loosening the tensioner. I dropped it while loosening the upper fuel filter cap. Hope this is the best method to remove the cap. Don't want to crack it.

Waiting for my fuel filters to arrive.

This thread will unofficially close when the Amazon delivery vehicle drops off my fuel filters tonight before 9 PM. Maybe I will get some sleep tonight!



Time for dinner!

 

It's easy to keep people up when you write War And Peace length posts. Amazing content!

 

I took my sweet time installing the alternator with my 17 year old. We doubled checked everything.

Oil fill tube came loose-off with the dog house to reconnect tube.

Dropped a socket wrench in the valley near EGR valve. Removed a few items to retrieve.

Dropped the square serpentine belt tensioner bit-spent 15 minutes playing hide and go seek. It bounced 7 feet away and landed on the opposite side under the van.

Somehow I was able to set the kickstand on the tensioner without knowing how to do it or knowing that I did it. The serpentine belt went on the alternator so easy, that I thought it fell off a pulley. We checked every pulley and realized the kickstand must be set. I cranked on the wrench to set the tension and the wrench traveled another 45 degrees in the opposite direction sending the release tool between the fan stator and fan! Good thing I am thin. From the top of the engine compartment, I reached down and pushed the square plug out of the hole. The wrench and square plug dropped to the ground.

When my Amazon order arrived, I opened it and discovered I ordered the oil filter. No wonder it was only $17! I changed the fuel filters at 798k. It's at 808 k. I will wait until 813k to replace upper and lower filters. My next oil change is 810k.

I really appreciate all the help from everyone. This thread was started about 2 years ago. As you can see, I was not in a hurry. The alternator would still be sitting on my spare parts shelf if the batteries were not replaced. Now the 110 amp alternator will sit on the shelf. When we leave for Tennessee this May, the 110 will sit under the rear bench seat next to jumper cables.

 

I fired up the van yesterday morning to test the newly installed 140 amp alternator. The new Odyssey batteries cranked the engine over faster than I remembered. Three miles from my home is the Sunol grade that I use to a test track for my vehicles. We were on our way to church. Van was gutless. Turbo was not spooling. I pulled over and noticed the lower CAC tube was blown off. I tightened with a socket wrench was on my way again. Boom! Wife says "You blew a tire". Pulled over and found the CAC tube blown again. Air filter housing was loose. I tightened everything again and the CAC tube blew off again.

I drove home, swapped vehicles (I have 4 vehicles-need spare vehicles when all have over 100k miles). After church, I tightened the CAC tube (the one going to charge air cooler) again. Boom!

I pulled the clamp off and realigned. Buttoned up the van and took it for another run. No leaks this time. I parked the van and will check all connections again.

The charge air cooler tubes are old and have seen better days. Maybe time to replace before I hit the road this summer. Seems like every repair leads to another. Maybe I need to stop replacing what is not broke! The 110 amp alternator was functional.