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Before you get the 4ga, post here how long the cable would be that you need. The van having those batteries on the frame changes cable sizing. When my legs warm up so I can head downstairs I'll see if my computer has the E's diagrams so I can see if the alternator output goes direct to batt or connect some where's else, like at the starter.
On edit, my DVD only has the 7.3l van, so I can't help with the locations. But when you find the info I can help from there.
I have the shop manual. I can snap a photo with my iPhone and PM you(unless it's okay to post it here) the wiring diagram. I think it's similar to the 7.3. It's like an octopus. I need heavy gauge wire as the voltage drop is more significant because of the length from alternator to battery bank.
Just post it here for others to see. You only need a heavier cable if there is a parallel cable to the batteries. The alternator only outputs a fraction of the current that the starter draws, especially after the first minutes of higher current battery charge. If the alternator output goes to an engine compartment juncture where system, glow plug, and battery connections are commonized, that's all you need.
Here is the wiring diagram. Let me know if this is the correct one. I can read wiring diagrams. Understanding takes some effort. I have my 15 year old son look at the diagrams as he really grasps the concept. If the mage is too blurry, I have a scanner that gives better resolution. I have the standard battery posts that are on F series and E series vehicles. What size eyelet do I get to connect to the battery terminal? This is a fun project and I am learning a lot.
Thanks for all the help. My batteries are both mounted on the frame rail. It takes a hydraulic jack to get them down. I will measure and order the cables. What about an extra ground cable?
I visited the sight Diesel Dan linked to and I have to say it was the easiest and most straightforward sites I have ever been to for connecting batteries. No other site explained how Anderson connectors work. When you configure a custom battery cable it loads a picture.
I know what I need with the exception of the "eye to eye" cable end size for the battery. I have to drop the battery box to get the size.
I think I should is 4 GA wire as the cable is only $1 a foot.
I ordered the Bosch 140 amp alternator from Amazon as it was the last one available.
Not only is GenuineDealz the least expensive I found (relative to configuration options), they are very fast at making up and shipping your order out, all free shipping, and it came Priority Mail. Great folks!
So, I don't know the vans at all either. Are both batteries right next to each other (starting batteries)?
You will have to figure out the cable run to your camping battery, if it were me I'd wire it via a switch to avoid adding to the start-up load, you could optionally also put a solenoid so it only has power available to that battery when the key is on. I'd direct tie my solar to a PWM charge controller and a fused lead just to the camping battery. The switch and/or solenoid isolates that battery from starting batts so you also don't drain them while camping -- besides allowing you to control when the Alt is charging, as in after all the other heavy users (Glow Plugs, initial starting batt replenishment, etc.) have dropped off.
Fun project you have, and the trip should be a great experience...
That is showing all connections juncture at the starter terminal, so that is where your parallel cable should go to. The 4ga would be plenty. There are videos of guys who have installed 185a alternators on F series who have used nothing but the factory wiring and never had an issue. IMO, that's pushing it and something I would not recommend.
That is showing all connections juncture at the starter terminal, so that is where your parallel cable should go to. The 4ga would be plenty. There are videos of guys who have installed 185a alternators on F series who have used nothing but the factory wiring and never had an issue. IMO, that's pushing it and something I would not recommend.
Do I route the parallel cable from the alternator to the starter? If so, this is easier than I thought.
You need to measure your cable length, I'm making my own up for this piece of my charging puzzle, but you should just figure out your run, especially on a Van (I assume they have the same problem as the trucks with the load imbalance between the batts), so it would be your passenger rail one you are going to. On the trucks and on a 140A alt 1/4" (hole) terminal ends work on both the batt and alt end. Just go for it and get a 6 gauge cable, price isn't really an issue and you could always step up to a LN 230 with this set-up, unless it is a really long run. Once you figure it out go to the same site and find what you need under their custom cables. Make sure you get the glue/heat shrink ends...
Enjoy the testing/knowledge Jack has done for us!!!
Hey Scott,
Did you buy a crimping tool, or how did you crimp your cables. I'm thinking about doing this or maybe having them make up a custom kit for me. (Hope I get my measurements right.)
Genuinedealz or Lawrence Marine are two good sites for getting the simple cables made up. If you are going to make your own you need really good crimpers, and those don't come cheap. For things I'm doing these are the best IMO, but it's not something you're just going to buy.
Hey Scott,
Did you buy a crimping tool, or how did you crimp your cables. I'm thinking about doing this or maybe having them make up a custom kit for me. (Hope I get my measurements right.)
On all my large gauge cables I had them made up for me, with glue/heat shrink ends.
I happened to have some 6 gauge welding cable, so I just bought the lugs and I made up my own for both secondary Alt run and my small ground run on the driver's side. I went back and forth on soldering the cable into the lug or just crimp. My crimping tool is a vise and a 16 penny nail -- the vise will just smash the end, putting the nail in between the jaw and the lug gives more of a crimp. If I had 4 hands I would have had a nail on each side, since I don't, I did one side and flipped the cable/lug around and stuck the nail in the other side. I used self fusing silicone tape to seal off the lug/cable end...
I wouldn't try this on larger cable btw...
The ones that are custom pre-made to your specs are so, very, very, nicely done... I re-cabled my golf cart with almost all custom made-up cables from GenuineDealz...
That's a hard call. I would think both have the same specs for output, so it's really a subjective judgement on if a new Bosch or "rebuilt" Ford is better. And from this side of the computer screen, or even if it was in my hands, there's nothing I can tell about the rebuilding technique. I guess my question would be, why is it light used and replaced?
That's a hard call. I would think both have the same specs for output, so it's really a subjective judgement on if a new Bosch or "rebuilt" Ford is better. And from this side of the computer screen, or even if it was in my hands, there's nothing I can tell about the rebuilding technique. I guess my question would be, why is it light used and replaced?
Jack, I bought the alternator from Diesel Redemption on eBay. I have talked with the owner several times and have bought a lot of good parts from them. He specializes in buying low mileage government fleet vehicles that are in good working condition. While I cannot verify the miles the van was taken from, I bought headlamp assembly from Diesel Redemption that looked almost new. He has a 99.7% rating.
Yes, this is a judgment call. New or rebuilt. I like new over rebuilt. Money is not a consideration on this as I did the labor myself. Saved several hundred bucks. Highest estimate was $500 labor from a local diesel repair shop that specializes in the 6.0!
After learning an easy trick for alternator removal, I know I can do the job in 2 hours. Y2K said I need to learn roadside repair for all my camping trips. I could do this on the side of the road as long as there is flat ground.
I bought the Overdrive Pulley on eBay and arriving next week.
I've bought from DR too, good parts. None of us (you, me, DR) know where the rebuilt came from unless its tagged. Lately if I have to replace electrical I've been going salvage, but checking out the part to make sure its assembly line and not rebuilt. I'm nervous about what is in the electrical rebuilt arena. My gut would be get the Bosch, keep the DR as the backup in the corner of the van. When I've gone on a long trip even though I have the L-N, the Bosch is in my travel emergency kit. It's a quicker change for me then you especially since I don't have the stator, but to me alternator is just as essential as a spare tire on long trips, as is a drive belt. A bad battery I can run to flip, even if it's by Uber. There's a lot of 24hr Walmarts out there.
I've bought from DR too, good parts. None of us (you, me, DR) know where the rebuilt came from unless its tagged.
The alternator has what I believe is the Ford remanufactured tag on it. That's a plus. I took a photo and sent it to my email. As soon as it arrives, I will post the photo.
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