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My 2000 F-250 CC has been setting in my garage since August of 2013. I finally broke down and bought an IPR as I was told that is what is needed to get it running. (First time this happened I was supposed to have gotten a new IPR But 2 years after it died the second time, I removed the solenoid and it was covered in grime like it was 15 years old. Mechanic told me he put a used one on it to see If that was the problem and it was and he then told me he put a new one. Guess not.) So, If I this truck does attempt to start with the new IPR, Am I looking at issues for letting it set for so long. I have been in no hurry to get it running as I was told I have a few bad injectors (Number 7 has less than 3,000 miles on it) So, I just want to get it started to lubricate and then save and get all 8 injectors at once. Am I in trouble likely? Both times this issue occoured, I was running down the parkway and it felt like It wasn't really responding to the pedal when i tried to accelerate. Once I hit the brake at the off ramp and the engine idled down, she died immediately and never fired again.
I don't have much experience with sitting trucks (i hate things not doing stuff), but i can imagine it is similar to any other sitting diesel. Replace the IPR and give it a shot, it is probably gonna take an afternoon of playing to get it going, but once they fire they fire. Once you get it running priority 1 is change oil unless your gonna do injectors soon (then you have to do it anyway). Old, degraded oil reaks havoc with the HPOP on these trucks.
(with new oil preferably) DRIVE IT, diesels don't like to sit, the more you use it the better it will run. Get some fresh diesel through the lines and a can of SeaFoam and it should be ok, unless those injectors are really that bad.
When i got my truck it ran like crap, i did the preliminary injector test (infrared thermometer on the headers on a cold morning) and half my injectors weren't firing. Truck had 300k and i just bit the bullet and did all 8 (myself - not that hard). Runs like a champ now, except for i think my HPOP is slowly dying.
I don't have much experience with sitting trucks (i hate things not doing stuff), but i can imagine it is similar to any other sitting diesel. Replace the IPR and give it a shot, it is probably gonna take an afternoon of playing to get it going, but once they fire they fire. Once you get it running priority 1 is change oil unless your gonna do injectors soon (then you have to do it anyway). Old, degraded oil reaks havoc with the HPOP on these trucks.
(with new oil preferably) DRIVE IT, diesels don't like to sit, the more you use it the better it will run. Get some fresh diesel through the lines and a can of SeaFoam and it should be ok, unless those injectors are really that bad.
When i got my truck it ran like crap, i did the preliminary injector test (infrared thermometer on the headers on a cold morning) and half my injectors weren't firing. Truck had 300k and i just bit the bullet and did all 8 (myself - not that hard). Runs like a champ now, except for i think my HPOP is slowly dying.
Good Luck
Thanks for the response. I hated seeing it set but I have managed to survive without it as I have a few other vehicles. Diesel was near 4ish bucks a gallon last time it ran. It's a great truck. I have only put 30,000 miles on it since 2007. It's a Crew Cab short bed. I am very mechanically savy but not on Diesels. It's like a different world to me. Give me a gas burner and I can pretty much tell you what the problem is and how to fix it. Diesel, new ball game.....
They aren't that bad. Injectors are a long project, but I'm 15 and was able to do them in two days being VERY slow and steady with it. It's no different then changing spark plugs. Only alot more complicated. Lent me know if you need guidance.
Put in as much fresh fuel as possible, make sure the batteries are charged, and crank it. Do not use ether/starting fluid. If it is cold there use the block heater.
After you get it running it's probably time for coolant and oil change.
If you need to assist starting, soak a rag in gas and cover the intake, that should help get the cylinders to fire without diesel being actively injected. Like he said ^^^^ DON'T USE ETHER The GPs will ignite it early and bad things happen. We had a 7.3 bus and we used starting fluid, blew off the intercooler pipes. We're lucky we did not Crack a valve or piston.
In addition to the previous advice I (just me) would be inclined to plug in the block heater for a few hours first anyway, it wouldn't hurt any and the warmer it is the faster and easier it will crank for you.
If it's been sitting for so long, wouldn't you want to change the oil first? After all, it's had plenty of time to drain as much as possible to the pan. Could the HPOP reservoir drain as well over such a long time? There is an anti-drain check valve in there to prevent this, but how good is it?
If it's possible for the reservoir to drain, I'd check it. If it is empty, I'd change the oil, and top off the HPOP before cranking.
A smart charger is a great, cheap investment to keep your batteries from sulfating. The smart charger will not over-charge the batteries, just keeps them happy.
I would NOT do the rag with gas thing either. It isn't much different than ether and could really cause an explosive problem. These trucks need a few things to start and run properly and it isn't too difficult to get them there. They need fuel, at this point I would put as much fresh diesel as possible in the tank. They need a minimum of 10.2 volts and at least 100RPM when cranking, charge your batteries. They need at least 500 PSI of oil pressure to fire the injectors, so I would certainly drain that old oil and put some fresh Rotella T6 or similar synthetic 5W 40 weight oil in. If you are certain there are injector issues, the synthetic may help buy you some time. Do as suggested, and plug it in for 4 hours prior to trying to start it up and then let us know what happens.
If it's been sitting for so long, wouldn't you want to change the oil first? After all, it's had plenty of time to drain as much as possible to the pan. Could the HPOP reservoir drain as well over such a long time? There is an anti-drain check valve in there to prevent this, but how good is it?
If it's possible for the reservoir to drain, I'd check it. If it is empty, I'd change the oil, and top off the HPOP before cranking.
THE HPOP resevoir is empty. Good time to change. I had it darin once before after setting for 9 months once.
A smart charger is a great, cheap investment to keep your batteries from sulfating. The smart charger will not over-charge the batteries, just keeps them happy.
I been planning to get some trickle chargers. These batteries were only 2 weeks old when it went down. I charged them a few months ago. Came up and held good till cloch ran them down a little.
In addition to the previous advice I (just me) would be inclined to plug in the block heater for a few hours first anyway, it wouldn't hurt any and the warmer it is the faster and easier it will crank for you.
A MUST for this truck to start well is the block heater. Always been that way.......Not sure why...????
A MUST for this truck to start well is the block heater. Always been that way.......Not sure why...????
This is a pretty good indication that all of your glow plugs are not lighting up. The glow plugs get to 12,000 degrees or something like that, which should ignite diesel without plugging in the block heater at anything above 20 degrees. Varying amounts of smoke at cooler temps.
Larry