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Lets first start with.
2006F350 Diesel Crew Cab Long bed 4WD SRW Ford 10.5 LS.
I will be using a gooseneck hitch.
Now the question. Household goods and weights. I was thinking about a 36~46 foot enclosed trailer.
I think anything over 46 is too long and even 46 would be pushing it. Also anything under 32 seems
too short. Is my reasoning sound or am I way off?
How heavy can household goods get when loading into a trailer?
I know I have to take the empty weight and the curb weight of the truck
and the trailer load into the total. Just need some help with this.
I did find this but not having had tim to read the full thing I am not sure
what I am looking for.
Size sounds reasonable when compared to a similar sized 5th wheel RV trailer. Going longer I may suggest looking at a tri axle like what is common on the toy hauler rv's
I think I could find a triple in the shorter 40's.
The only worry about triples is sharp turns and
tire life. But If I am only going one major trip and
then using as storage after until 100% moved in
that may not really be an issue. The good thing about
not yet owning a lathe and milling machine is the
lack of very heavy small footprint items.
Lets first start with.
2006F350 Diesel Crew Cab Long bed 4WD SRW Ford 10.5 LS.
I will be using a gooseneck hitch.
Now the question. Household goods and weights. I was thinking about a 36~46 foot enclosed trailer.
I think anything over 46 is too long and even 46 would be pushing it. Also anything under 32 seems
too short. Is my reasoning sound or am I way off?
How heavy can household goods get when loading into a trailer?
I know I have to take the empty weight and the curb weight of the truck
and the trailer load into the total. Just need some help with this.
I did find this but not having had tim to read the full thing I am not sure
what I am looking for.
Just FYI, My 38' enclosed goose, when loaded, not with house hold goods, but my toys....RZR, JEEP, tools etc, gets into the 17000 weight range real easy! It has three 6000 lb torsion axles under it, and also get pin heavy.....over 4000 on the pin! But I also use the nose compartment for storage, and have a generator bay in there too, along with a workbench and overhead cupboards in the front!
Just a barebones enclosed goose will probably be some lighter
Also, I have been in some residential areas where my 38' gets real tight, especially when there are vehicles parked on the street
Just something to consider when looking at the size! Good luck in your quest.
Last edited by Desert Don; Apr 6, 2016 at 08:25 PM.
Reason: Add comment
We have only 2 bad corners and we know the people that live on both.
But that is where we are at right now. The new place has not even been
picked out yet. One thing I can say. No HOA or tiny lots. I want some room
for a shop and parking. I think I would even be happy to have a small
working farm with enough income to help cover some of it.
I have helped move a lot of people over the years with our 20ft Kiefer aluminum stock trailer, The only real advice I can give on the trailer size is it's completely dependent on what you put in it for your final weight.
If you were to load a 36+ft trailer full with just books, dishes, a piano and other solid household objects it is going to be heavy!
If you can guess the final weight of the trailer when loaded you're doing better than I have ever been able to do, sometimes it's considerably lighter than you expect and others it's freaking heavy, for what it's worth my Super duty has always been able to play with the load when moving people.... The trailer tires were questionable on a couple loads though.
I was thinking that I should mix part of the garage stuff (My tools) with
house stuff and make 2 trips if not three.
Like I have said we are not sure on the final location and the longest drive
might be 20Hrs round trip.
One thing I could do is like Bozos Moving and storage move the larger house
things like beds and dressers and I take the things that have a bad habit of going
"Oops we don't know where that went to" if you know what I mean.
Just not sure on that part. Some extra stuff will get sold I think in a yard sale.
My experience with longer trailers is mostly with G/N flatbeds, 25' you can go almost anywhere with it, 35' very noticeably longer and requires some planning to get into some tight spots, 40+' requires some decent driving skills to keep the trailer on the road on corners and not in someone's yard.
If you load the trailer like I do and have it full to the roof stick to an 35', it's going to be a very heavy load. If you're going to spread the load out in the trailer and you're confident in your driving skills and don't have plans on towing the trailer in tight spots in the future the bigger trailer isn't a bad option.
The most fun part of helping people move with my stock trailer isn't the moving or carrying their stuff.... It's the Power washing the life stock poop out, that's A load of fun.
One reason I want an enclose cargo trailer and also for dry storage
on both ends while getting the house sold and also moving into the
new place after.
If I get my way then I won't have to deal with close set housing
and yards to run over when moving in.
I used to be a bug hauler (moving van) and could easily load a 48 ft Kentucky moving van with 35K to 42K with household goods even though a 40 ft trailer you can pull behind your Ford doesn't have that much cubic capacity household goods can get heavy fast. Last time I moved myself I used a 24 ft trailer rated for GVW of 18K and found that when I loaded all my toys, woodworking equip, shooting and reloading stuff, and welding equipment I grossed over 25K. Good thing I only had to go about 3 miles, only weighed it for s***s and giggles and almost gave my self a heart attack.
The one think that I think will save some weight and space.
No major appliances will be tagging along. They stay behind.
Also Because I will be storing some garage stuff in there pre-move
and I don't want the little thieves just reaching in I can't use a stock
trailer. Also can't forget the rain here. So it has to be enclosed.
wasn't implying you should use a stock trailer but that's what I've used for comparison, An enclosed trailer is the way to go for how you're going to use it and likely easier to resell when you're done, if you want to.
For what it's worth comparing an enclosed trailer to a life stock trailer isn't exactly apples to apples, a life stock trailer will weigh more empty, it has considerably heavier side walls and floor to take the abuse of 1500# animals going for a ride, just a guess but I would figure the enclosed trailer would be 3-4000#s lighter when comparing 24' trailers.
How big you go is going to be completely dependent on how you intend to load the trailer, when I say it's loaded to the roof I mean there is no way to get anything else in the trailer it's full to the brim. If you plan to pack the trailer a little more carefully for that long of a trip the weight goes down considerably.
