Charging
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2016
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Charging
Alright fellas in need of your assistance again, my 1988 f250 7.3 has a charging issue. So to start the battery were dead, replaced those and worked fine but no charge, the battery power to alternator was corroded and broke fixed that with a 30amp circuit breaker and still no charge, pulled the regulator and full fielded alternator by jumping a and f with regulator unplugged, 12.7 volts running, well took alternator to part house and got it tested, it passed 3 times, so for now I got a voltage regulator to put on it and see, anyone else got other suggestions. I'll update in about an hour how regulator worked
7th Gear
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 7
Likes: 1
From: New York
Instead of running in circles why not upgrade,
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...3-92-idis.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...3-92-idis.html
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,860
Likes: 7
A lot of people like the 3G, but the 1G works just fine as far as I'm concerned. Just check all the wiring. Regulators are the weak point with these alternators, and make very sure your grounds are good(I'd run a wire from the ground on the alternator to the case of the regulator).
As for the rest of the wiring:
That should get you started.
Looking there, I'd check for 12V at the "I" terminal on the regulator with the key on. It's supposed to come through the bulb or resistor shown, and if there isn't any power there, the alternator will not work.
This is probably the same reason shorting the two terminals on the alternator did not work -- these aren't self-exciting; you need a bit of power to get the process started.
Note that if you have issues with the I terminal and need to get power to it, don't run a wire directly from the battery or ignition - run it through a small 12V bulb. If not, the regulator and alternator will get hot when the engine is /not/ running.
As for the rest of the wiring:
That should get you started.
Looking there, I'd check for 12V at the "I" terminal on the regulator with the key on. It's supposed to come through the bulb or resistor shown, and if there isn't any power there, the alternator will not work.
This is probably the same reason shorting the two terminals on the alternator did not work -- these aren't self-exciting; you need a bit of power to get the process started.
Note that if you have issues with the I terminal and need to get power to it, don't run a wire directly from the battery or ignition - run it through a small 12V bulb. If not, the regulator and alternator will get hot when the engine is /not/ running.
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 618
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I upgraded to 3G within the past week and I am never looking back just upgrade it is way worth it !!
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i ain't rite
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2016
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Thanks everyone for the fast response! Turns out the fusible link burnt up looked like corrosion did it in, so I re wired another one in and gonna see what happens. The alternator was good so I'm not gonna convert over to 3G just yet
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hoxiii
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Dec 3, 2006 05:56 PM