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Old Apr 23, 2016 | 01:55 PM
  #46  
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Well after a few days away from the truck I'm back at it.Took off stock plenums,driver side had a fuel line clamp,didn't know that, during the process of cutting off the pass side bolt,you know the one,I accidentally nicked the surface where the new plenum sits.Did I mess this up?Pics.



Left of bolt hole on the right





The bolt





Old vs New








Driver side fuel line clamp.Keep or not?
 
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Old Apr 23, 2016 | 09:24 PM
  #47  
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Some people wrap the pipe with insulating material so clamp wont wear on line & others just remove clamp,mine is removed & it shows no sign of movement or vibration.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2016 | 06:05 AM
  #48  
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Looking carefully at the picture of the intake mating surface, it looks like the O-ring will avoid the nick - if I'm seeing it right. The worst case might be the need for a tiny patch of RTV right there, just to give it a tiny rise. Let the RTV dry before install and you have a mating surface for the O-ring.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2016 | 10:12 AM
  #49  
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I had the same problem with the thing.. sockets are not long enough now. I was able to get a 1 1/8 wrench down there, but my HPOP was still attached.. your on bench just use wrench.. buy it at autozone, use and then take back. you only need it for that.

good luck and have fun.



Originally Posted by SGnAZ
I put new hose fittings on my hpop and the port plug oring,now it was time to take off the IPR, didn't have a 1 1/8 deep socket so off to autozone,buy the socket come home and it isn't deep enough .I see a guy on YouTube using a craftsman socket,so off to sears,50 mile round-trip in the pouring rain,buy the socket get home and it Doesn't fit.saw another video guy was using a snap on socket,look on their site 55 bucks,no thanks. What the heck are you guys using to get this off?



Almost ready





Craftsman almost makes it,autozone is about the same
 
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Old Apr 24, 2016 | 11:11 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Tugly
Looking carefully at the picture of the intake mating surface, it looks like the O-ring will avoid the nick - if I'm seeing it right. The worst case might be the need for a tiny patch of RTV right there, just to give it a tiny rise. Let the RTV dry before install and you have a mating surface for the O-ring.
It looks like you're right. I will add a dab of rtv and smooth it out with a putty knife just to be safe.Thanks for the advice and response . I appreciate it.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2016 | 11:14 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by carl2591
I had the same problem with the thing.. sockets are not long enough now. I was able to get a 1 1/8 wrench down there, but my HPOP was still attached.. your on bench just use wrench.. buy it at autozone, use and then take back. you only need it for that.

good luck and have fun.
I was near sears the other day so I picked one up.I decided to just keep it,you never know.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2016 | 05:38 PM
  #52  
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I won't use RTV, I'd use a 2 part epoxy like to fix cases or something. That would make it hard and permanent and seal like new.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 02:20 PM
  #53  
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Dropped fuel tank today.It is a beast,but not that bad of a job





This is what came out





Not bad for a 16 year old pick up foot and filters.I was very surprised Also, the vent lines pretty much fell apart,any idea on what to replace them with.Thanks everyone.
 

Last edited by SGnAZ; Apr 25, 2016 at 02:28 PM. Reason: add text
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 04:22 PM
  #54  
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I have another question. The filters in the sending unit weren't attached to the cap,I put the new ones back in the same way,do I need to take that screw on tank ring off and attach them or am I good?
Thanks for putting up with my questions. Steve
 
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 04:23 PM
  #55  
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What size is the vent line? If Fuel injection hose would work I'd use that short of buying from Ford.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 04:27 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Bonanza35
What size is the vent line? If Fuel injection hose would work I'd use that short of buying from Ford.
Looks like 3/8 line maybe . I'll take what's left to auto zone and see what they have.Thanks
 
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 05:08 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by SGnAZ
I have another question. The filters in the sending unit weren't attached to the cap,I put the new ones back in the same way,do I need to take that screw on tank ring off and attach them or am I good?
Thanks for putting up with my questions. Steve
Those filters are usually removed when you do the H&H, they are replaced by a remote one somewhere on the frame before the pump.

If you leave them in it won't harm anything, it's just you may have to back in the tank later if they clog.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 07:59 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Rikster-7700
Those filters are usually removed when you do the H&H, they are replaced by a remote one somewhere on the frame before the pump.

If you leave them in it won't harm anything, it's just you may have to back in the tank later if they clog.
Ok thanks.I didn't even think about the hutch mod,I've spent way too much time trying to get this truck back together.I'm almost there.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 11:17 PM
  #59  
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Considering you're this far in, it seems to be a no brainier and well worth any extra effort!
 
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 11:08 AM
  #60  
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FRX installed. I put on some blue wire loom just to class it up a bit.





I doubled and triple checked the spring. Oh hell, I must have spent a half hour with it.Looks like I got it.Opinions?
 
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