I have installed new original wiring harness on 1954 ford truck. When I bought the wiring harness to go from the gen to the voltage reg it had 3 wires it showed 1 to the armature 1 to the field and 1 to ground under base of voltage reg. Since there was not one to battery I ran one from battery terminal on regulator to B post on light. The problem I am having is gen is not charging. Took it and had it tested and it was good. Came back and tried to polarize it but when I touched field to the battery terminal I didn't get a small blue flash instead I got a strong arc and pop (kind of like if you touch the neg and positive battery post together. Truck starts ands runs fine but is draining battery pretty quick. Any thoughts?

 

Have you tested your voltage regulator?

 

Never mind, 54's are different than I thought. Do you have a stock wiring diagram specific to '54's? Can you post it?

I think your problem is, you have no wire from the light switch to the battery?

 

ALBUQ F-1
Iam sorry I put light in my post but I did run a wire from battery post on regulator to the B post on light switch. The wiring diagram showed no wire connected on terminal and someone on this site said I needed one ran. My light will not go off and my battery is being drained. That's why I also need to know why when I tried to polarize (Removed field and touched to battery instead of light blue spark it was like if I touched wires together that one was hooked to pos and one to neg on a battery that is how strong the spark was.

 

"Light will not go off" typically means cutout relay points are stuck closed.

The points should open anytime the generator output goes below the cutout voltage. If not, the battery will backfeed into the generator. This will smoke the generator, attempting to motor the engine, it may even catch on fire. This is why sometimes generator regulator covers from back in the day were all dented up. Banging on the regulator would sometimes get the relay unstuck.

Where exactly did you take a generator where it could be tested? This is somewhat rare in 2016. Wherever this was, is probably the place best suited to help you. A good motor shop can test and adjust the generator and regulator together as a pair.

 

So your truck has a generator light? Not an ammeter? Do you have a stock wiring diagram? What is connected to the other side of the idiot light? Is there a wire from the solenoid battery post to the light switch, or somewhere else?

 

Try this thread

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...n-54-f100.html

The B goes from the VR to the B term on the light switch, then to the gauges, to the battery.

 

Just to be clear, "the gauges" is only the ammeter ("CHG"), but since he has an idiot light, not sure what else is needed.

 

We have a shop that has been here since the 50s that rebuild generators, alternators they rebuilt my wiper motor on my truck and had the parts in stock. I took the 12 volt generator that I had bought off e-bay that was rebuilt for him to test and he said it was good. The old one on the truck after I wired the truck the first time I started the truck the battery light would stay on and not go off. What I am trying to find out is why when I try to polarize I am getting a loud big spark not a blue flash. I checked all my grounds even added one from the frame to the body. Why is it not polarizing.

 

If they tested the generator and pronounced it "good" polarization is not necessary. Polarization is required when the generator is disassembled, or sometimes if it has sat unused for a long time. Contrary to popular belief, not every time the battery or regulator is disconnected. It's the Generator being polarized, not the Regulator, yet another misconception.

Many times people follow the wrong procedure and cause more harm than good. Ford (or type "B") system requires a different method than say a Chrysler, or whatever. Depending here on Uncle Hank's memory on how to polarize is not the way to go. Use the FSM for your truck.

Later 12 volt model procedures in the manual have the FLD and BAT terminals _disconnected from the regulator first_, THEN touched together momentarily. Any other method may roast windings in the Regulator. You'll need the wiring diagram for your truck. It's in the FSM, follow it closely. I suck at this too but if you study it long enough and dig around with some pics and maybe a tractor forum or two online, it will make sense.

There is an extra wire you mentioned, this connects from the Generator to the Regulator to ensure that the latter has a good solid ground reference. It's not enough that it is grounded to the fender apron or wherever, rust and corrosion or whatever was a problem even then. Charging systems (even today) need clean, bright shiny connections.

One easy test for a generator that won't charge is connect a heavy jumper cable from the negative battery post to a clean, unpainted portion of the generator body. If charging is now good, the grounds and cables are loose, corroded, missing etc. The Generator itself must have a clean tight connection through the engine block mounting boss, brackets, and hardware. Restored engines sometimes will have thick coats of paint that will interfere with good electron transfer.

Make sure the proper Regulator is being used. I have had the best luck with NOS, or NORS, good ole U.S. made. Use a new regulator paired with a new (rebuilt) Generator. Your shop should be able to adjust the cutout voltage, voltage, and current output of them both together. The modern el-cheapos are sometimes not even adjustable or won't regulate properly anyway.

Then test voltage at say 2500 RPM with all the lights on, heater blower on etc. Generators run a little hotter than Alternators voltage wise for some reason. Compensate for temperature with a chart, like this:

 

Just to be clear, this is a 12 volt conversion? Or 6 volt positive ground?

 

Yes this was a six volt originally that was changed over to 12 volts. I will make ago at it again tomorrow. I sure appreciate your input very much as I get rattled with electrical stuff. As you suggested I will be sure the ground is good from generator back to voltage regulator. Again thanks.