The towers also have a 3/4" bolt that attaches the racket to the frame, much the same as a standard WD hitch does, the U bolt is just to provide for extra tension on the tower.

 

Yes I see the set bolt, does not change the fact that the leverage point is different than most WDH. I know plenty of people love these hitches I am just seeing issues that could be avoided

I have seen a few other threads on rv blogs where propride has sent the uses strapteks tensioning system to solve other issues this system also lowers the leverage point to below the frame rails

 

Could you tie the top of the two spring jacks together so they can't be pulled outwards?

Just tossing ideas out there, I haven't seen one of these in person...

 

Ok long awaited update. After working with ProPride and the new jack towers it was discovered they my frame is only 1-7/8 wide and the shim playes and jack is designed for a 2in wide frame. I am getting some thicker shim played made and it should solve the problem. Right now the jacks are being held upright by a ratchet strap. After changing the front wheel bearing calipers and pads I can now actually tow my camper. There is still a little bit of wondering but I do not fear for my life anymore just the people in the next lane. Just kidding. The wander is still there but totally drivable. I just have to find the cause of the growl I am getting in the front and cure the last bit of wander and enjoy 2 finger towing.

 

That's odd that your frame is 1 7/8" wide, mine is a full 2" even though the picture makes it look shy, I checked it with calipers and it's exactly 2".



The frame brackets (mid rise couple style and my old top mount coupler ones were similar) on my Hensley extend to the full frame depth with 2 U bolts to hold it and give lateral support.

 

Tom lol this wouldn't be the first time I mis measure something important. I didn't have a caliper available but I did have a bar clamp and that's how I got my measurement. Your propane tank cover is too shiny making mine look old and ratty.

 

Subscribing as I am in the process of setting up my Pro Pride.

 

Mecdac don't take the whole thing apart to put it on, use a bottle jack and wood to support the trailer tongue and retract the trailer tongue jack, slide the ProPride under the tongue jack, get a helper and connect the ball and coupler, lower the tongue jack to support the trailer and remove the bottle jack and wood.


Connect the u bolts to the cross brace, position the tower jacks, loosely connect the u bolts, position the metal strut bars, fasten with u-bolt to weight distribution bars, tighten u-bolts and recheck/tighten fasteners.


Only thing with a new camper you will need to raise the propane tank tray up with washers and longer self tapping screws.


Once the hitch is in and trailer is level then you set the stinger up.


If you have any questions please ask.

 

That's good advice, I'll be taking it. I have the jacks and the support mounted on the trailer. Was holding off on the rest until I get my new receiver installed. Now I can install it all on the trailer end at least while I wait on parts.

 

Thanks for the advice.


The *****tard douchenozzle that sold me the PP misplaced, lost, threw away one of the "U" bolts that attach the under frame bracket.

My son and I were following the instructions figuring out what went where and first. I got the WDH jacks attached and got log jammed at the under frame bracket.

My idea was to attach the control head and back the stinger in, we are on the same page.

Thanks for the info.

 

I found some U-bolts for the under frame bracket (long story), re-installed the propane tank rack using four (instead of two self-tapping) screws, moved the emergency brake switch which was in the way of the U-bolts and flipped the stinger.

Tomorrow I'll complete the mounting of the hitch head and a possible test drive.

Question: How accurate is the math on the installation instructions?

It seems I have to drop the hitch to hitch box a lot more than I expected.

 

I found the math pretty accurate on the hitch.
I never did receive the 1/2 plate from Propride. I finally get everything set so I was comfortable towing over 55. I used a ratchet strap between the jack towers to hold them up right. As far as the wander and drift I was getting while towing seem to have come from the Ex. Still not quite 2 finger towing but I think after I change my 5 year old tires out I should find that. I pulled a 600 mile round trip on the way home there was gusting winds of 20 to 25 and the hitch performed great.
I do believe that I did the right thing getting this hitch even thou I wanted to sell it for scrap several times. I do still have issues with the jacks wanting to bend out even under a small preload and the Ubolts that build the tail piece in place let the tail edge over some no matter how much I tighten them. I will probally get this all welded to the camper frame to sturdy it up more. I have uninstalled and reinstalled this thing so many times that it is almost second nature to me.

There is a couple of improvements I would make to this hitch to make it better but I am not building them so that is neither here nor there

Oh and one last piece of advice I couldn't find my cordless drill to screw the jacks up so I used my 1/4 impact driver and sheared the pin in the jack. I luckily had spares.

 

Finished mounting, moved to level ground everything is straight, parallel within all specs, we took some measurement before and after applying weight.

We went for a 20 mile drive on the interstate (8 MPH wind) passed some tractor-trailers and had them pass us = rock solid, no push or suck.