I have a large round sand foot on my TT's power tongue jack that when the jack is retracted all the way will hit the spring bars on turns, so we have to keep it down a couple of inches from fully retracted to avoid contact with the bars.

 

Alright it's been quite a ride. Propride should be recognized as a company with AWESOME customer service. They sent me a set of jacks out right after speaking with them. I revived the jacks and installed them. Headed to the weight scales and stopped to fuel up. While doing my checks I noticed that the jacks were no longer straight vertical and the bars were starting to bend again. I removed my flip foot so that is out of the equation






I contacted Shawn and after lots of questions and pictures sent back and forth. It was determined that there was shim plates missing from my hitch. These are something new that he started including in the kits recently. My hitch was purchased in Feb so it must be real recent. These shims go inbetween the jack and the the TT frame. Without these shims my WD bars were side loading the links and in turn the links were side loading the u shaped bar on the WD jack. Causing the u shaped bar to bend.
The pic below shows the fix for the bars bending.


Without going to the scales just the short 3 mile drive on the interstate and my trusty tape measure I did notice that everything is handling better with the WD jacks jacked upabout 6 inches but I still need to transfer more weight to the front. My measurements were.

Before propride plain Jane nothing in receiver

front 20 inches
Rear 24.5

Pp on no WD
23.5 rear
20.5 front
Hooked up PP with WD
Front 20.5
Right Rear 23.5
Left rear 23
Front of camper
19.5
Rear of camper
21.25

 

Son Of A Biskit : I hope you get this dinked soon

You sure have a lot of rake on your X.. Are you running bags to only have the 1" of squat ??

 

I'm actually not running any air in my bags well just the 5 or so psi that stay in them. I am heading to work now so it will be 30 days before I can get back in this project. Propride has been great to work with. We will get this towing rock solid or everything is gonna be for sale.
As far as the rake goes yea that's quite a bit but it looks good when hooked up and the ride isn't bad at all. I am really liking these modified C codes from ATS. I am on a plane now checking out the forums how cool is that.

 

So basically you are creating a D-Ring on the jacks instead of the open hook. How do you adjust the distribution bars? I run my bars on #3 hole?


I will be setting mine up again on the new camper in about 2 weeks, the 3rd trailer it will have been on. The good part is mine has been cleaned, and repainted, ready to go.

 

Pretty much a d-ring. It was ProPrides idea. With my measurements of the front wheel wells it was determined that I would not need the bottom hole as the jacks still have 3 more inches to jack up.

Excurvlle how many inches do you put in your WD jacks

 

I set my jacks in the 3rd hole and run them up 8-9 inches ( from the bottom of the jack to bottom of jack tube.)


When you level do you run the trailer tongue jack up first, lifting the truck and trailer, tighten the WD than lower it down?


My biggest problem is lowering the jacks too much and the bar between the WD and jacks bends.

 

I have had mine in the 3rd hole but didn't see a lot of difference. But remember that I haven't played without a whole lot to get it completely dialed in yet. From my measurements and the handling of the truck at 6.25 inches on the jacks we figured that I would only need to stay in the second hole.

I talked to Propride about lifting with the jack to tighten the Wd bars. They said it was easier on the jacks to do it that way,But not necessary.
I am able to lower the WD bars all the way without any problems. I wonder what's going on with yours.
I can't wait to get back home to get back on the hitch project. 28 more days to go

 

Part of my problem is my driveway, it has a slight bmp where the camper parks and when I lower the jacks the WD gets into a bind. With the new camper it will have to be parked in a different spot, fortunately it is right next to my outside RV 30 AMP outlet and water but I will need to level it side to side.

 

Could you use chain instead of them flat bars between the spring bars and the jacks?

 

Possibly but I think the solid bar is there to maintain up/down rigidity.

 

i am trading off the 5ver for a TT now that the x is almost finished up and ready to tow.

The hitch looks like a PITA. I was a contractor for almost 20 years and have engineered everything from stair stringers to custom suspensions. Those towers that the j hooks are on are about the weakest system they could have engineered. The new d ring model eliminates one issue of bending the hook, but does nothing for the length on that upright tube.

Basic physics, that tube is a great lever putting strain not only on itself but the trailer frame as well. The only reason your frame didn't bend is because the hitch failed first. Make that d ring fix and your next weak link could be the trailer frame. If it does not bend the trailer it is because the hitch puts less pressure on it as it bends the frame and the weight dist. starts to be a bit less due to less tension.

On Tom's hensley they have moved the actual connection point below the frame rails changing the side loaded lever action you are getting to more of a direct downward pull.

I have the reese active sway control on my list for my new TT, this eliminates all the leverage you are experiencing as the connection point has no "lever" on the frame rails

 

The weakest part of the trailer frame is to flat sides that make up the box, the twist you are getting and the design of the hitch are putting the strain right in the middle of the weakest part of the frame. It will bend there, i would suspect that with that system off you may already have a bit of denting from that half c-channel support.

 

His problem was he foot under the trailer caught the weight dist bars and put stress on the towers.


I just installed mine on the new camper, once you know the tricks on how to install it is actually very easy.

 

Yours definitely looks to be installed better
The OP may just have installation issues, I know the towers are supposed to make the tensioning of the system easier but it creates a leverage moment if it is compromised at all. I would really suggest the OP remove that system and be sure the frame is still in factory condition at that point of support.

if it were on my trailer I would want to see the sleeve be the full depth of the frame rail so that the leverage point is at the corner of the frame rail which is much stronger. And then maybe two u bolts rather than one.

I don't know of any other system that puts that point of contact above the frame rail like that. Maybe it has been done before?