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Hi. I have a 2012 F250 4x4 120,000 miles. It has a rotation noise that seems to be getting worse. It makes the noise from 20-30 mph and up. I the noise changes tone when I touch the brakes. When I whip the steering wheel back and forth while driving, the noise does not change. Even a light touch of the brakes makes the noise change. I popped the front passenger side tire off and looked at the brake pads etc.. Its tough to tell but it seems like the noise is coming from that side but it is really hard to tell while driving. The pads look fine. There was a slight sign of metal shaving around the hub and caliper area. I turned the hub by hand and it kind of felt bumpy and it actually jammed up after I spun the hub, stopped spinning it and started to spin it again. I just thought from past experience that if it was a wheel bearing, whipping the wheel back and forth would change the sound. What do you guys think? Any input would be appreciated
I just helped my dad do his front hub bearings, front axle seals and all new steering and ball joints (basically a all new front end) last week. The ball joints are interesting to press. We rented the ball joint tool kit and 4x4 ball joint adapters and still had to piece together to press them. But we got it done. The biggest problem we had was getting the the front hub seals onto the front axles. We tried tapping and clamps on one seal, destroyed it. So went and bought two new ones and brought it to our local Ford dealer (have a friend who works there as a master mechanic) and they pressed them on for me. Charged $50 in labor.
All in all the wheel hub seals were the absolute hardest part of it all.
If your trouble shooting points to the hubs...yes only use USA made parts vs chineasium junk...unless you like wasting your time and money? BDI Inc. sells USA bearings. Spicer brand ONLY for Ujoints. Rock Auto can sell USA bearings as well. A good NAPA, United, Federated etc will have USA too. Big Boxes not so much. Always ask country of origin.
Your problem sounds brake related to me by your description. Start with the simple items first. Pull the caliper off and have a good look at the inner pad and rotor surface. You cant see anything when its all bolted up. The inner pads will wear faster. Have you inspected all Ujoints? Grab the tire at the 12 & 6 o'clock position when on jack stands and wiggle. If there is any play the hubs could be worn out. If your doing hubs MAW do the outer Ujoints and BJs while your there. But I suspect you will find worn out brake components. Make sure the caliper piston is releasing. If its bad it will smoke the new rotor n pads. You can usually feel it pulling when braking if the caliper or the brake line is bad. Do not let a caliper dangle by its brake line when you remove the caliper. Always support it with something...bungee or coat hanger etc.
4 bolts. Have to remove the wheel and brakes. Have to remove caliper, and caliper carrier. Disconnect steering from both front carriers. You'll have to turn each hub to get to the bolts. Word of advice, get yourself a few cans of pb blaster. Saved us some time.
While you're that deep into the front end, personally I would change all the seals too as I stated previously.
I just helped my dad do his front hub bearings, front axle seals and all new steering and ball joints (basically a all new front end) last week. The ball joints are interesting to press. We rented the ball joint tool kit and 4x4 ball joint adapters and still had to piece together to press them. But we got it done. The biggest problem we had was getting the the front hub seals onto the front axles. We tried tapping and clamps on one seal, destroyed it. So went and bought two new ones and brought it to our local Ford dealer (have a friend who works there as a master mechanic) and they pressed them on for me. Charged $50 in labor.
All in all the wheel hub seals were the absolute hardest part of it all.
I have done my front end a couple of times in the last 11 years pf ownership. I have a brand name ball joint press and 4x4 adapter kit. I still had to fire up the lathe and make a new tube to fit the ball joints to press in. I used a piece of pipe to put the seals on the axle. I have the Ford tool to install the big hub seals. Good tools make a difference.
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