Hi guys,
So I messed up with the timing the whole day, ended up the most advanced it can be. Cold start is fine, just rattles quite a lot with cold advance on take off, once warmed it is fine. I do not have timing light and just not right time to get one, so I just go for a ride and consider things by how much do I need to push the acelerator to maintain speed. This setting is the best, as I barely touch it. It pulls guite nice. The odd thing is if the ambient temp is 15 celsius or more, it starts dead cold without glow plugs just fine. Am I too advanced?
The timing of this thing is just giving me headakes, all the diesels I have worked on here in Europe over the 20 years are really picky on timing, and movement of the pump by 1 mm makes great change, not this pump. The timing marks are 5mm to the advanced side. Every diesel I worked on here would rattle like hell, maybe not running at all, not this one.
The other thing is that maybe your diesel is different. It was running fine in the states, with timing marks aligned, once it was refilled here, it was retarded, sluggish.
I checked all the fuel lines for blockage, filter head, IP cover, all is fine. Injectors are new, old ones did not spray, just poured a stream of diesel and were dripping badly.
Yes I played with the light load advance as well, the cam seems to be worn a little, I compensated for that, tried different cam positions.
The cold start without glowplugs is strange, specially idi engines need glow plugs. I kind of worry if I am advanced way too much. On the other hand the engine likes it to my trials. I just do not want to hurt it.

 

Honestly, it's pretty darned hard to hurt an IDI. Because of the pre-chamber, you don't run into "hotspotting" issues or melting pistons like you would on a DI engine.

If it likes it advanced with the fuel and such over there, it likes it advanced. Simple. I've ended up with a smoother running truck by listening and feeling more than using a timing light; It's a good reference point when everything in the truck was brand new. With used, worn components? It makes more sense to "feel it in" and run a happy medium timing wise.

Also, as far as I understand, you should end up with peak power right about best timing, which should also equate to lowest running EGTs and good fuel economy.
Simply because if the timing is optimal, you'll get more power out of the fuel you do burn. Which means you need to burn less to maintain speed = lower EGTs, and better mileage.

 

Robb,
I think your diesel is way different. I think yours is better, as the consumption was lower in the states and the engine was running fine way retarded than here. As u said, it likes it advanced and is running the strongest it ever was, just wonder if it would need maybe little more or less. Hard to say, u have these trucks around and are used to how it should sound, I have never heard it, only mine.I have compared to utube, but the microphones pick it different than it really is, so it is just a reference. I havent driven it any long distance to measure the consumption, just 30 mile trips and around the village.
BTW u are electrical guy, I need the wiring diagram of the signal lights and brake lights. The problem here is we use orange rear signal light, and red for brake light. I need to convert it to our system, because the trailer conected would signal with brake lights and that would atract the cops and could confuse the driver behind. I would like to make a switch, that would maintain your rear signaling, or switch to ours. I hate to add wires, but really no choice.
Thanks

 

Idi motors are quieter than direct injected motors by nature. If you are curious about a little more or less, scribe where you are set at now and play with it some more. Like said above, it's hard to hurt anything but power/mileage

 

I cant advance more, would need to skip a tooth, I am the most on the pump. And nope u are not right with quietness of DI engines.Have u heard the new mercedes or bmw? They are almost as quiet as gassers.

 

OK, mechanical direct injection is louder than indirect mechanical injection. The reason new motors are quieter is because of multiple injection events per cycle.

Edit: if you haven't, loosen your injector lines and see if you can rotate more. I haven't dealt with coarse enough adjustments to know if there is a built in stop but I have been impeded by binding injector lines.

 

I am limited of the holes in the IP.

 

You can adjust more using the screw on the advance lever, as detailed here:
It seems to work pretty well, as others in the topic I posted about that found.
It seems to fairly evenly adjust the timing curve(unlike what I expected), which is good news.

As long as you pull the lever off and measure where you are at to start, you should be able to get back to that position. Just make sure to measure it accurately.

 

Robb,
I have already played with that also, seems like I am now in the best spot, truck performs well, has power, rews fine, quite happy with it. Might get timing light over the weekend just to check where actually I am with the timing.