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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 12:56 PM
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Ball Joint Grease

Both my 2000 4x4 excursions have good ball joints. One still has OEM joints on one side that I cannot grease.

What is the proper grease to put in the ball joints?

I am looking at catipiller extreme application Grease 2 NLGI 2.

Want something with plenty of moly, I guess.....suggestions?
 
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 01:43 PM
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I used the same grease in link below for my wheel bearings, ball joints and other suspension components.

2004 F250 Front End Service
 
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 01:59 PM
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That looks pretty good..has 3% moly in it.
And it's cheaper and more available than the Catipiller stuff.

Catipiller grease is 5% moly though.

Looked at amsoil synthetic polymeric off road grease too, 5% moly and a timken load of over 65 vs the durablend timken load of 45.

Looks like Castrol pyroplex gold is very good too. 6% moly and 70 timken load result!! If you can find it.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 08:51 PM
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I use sweepco 101 for general lube duties on my junk.
the sweepco 103 is a EP grease and plenty of guys use that on their racers as well.

no idea what the pressures are in a ball joint but if you are after crazy moly content get the belray anti seize that has 40% moly.

the desert race "secret sauce" for use in CV joints is sweepco 101 mixed with the belray AS. race car CV joints are probably one of the higher temp and pressure parts you are likely to find.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 08:17 AM
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Very intresting... That's a barium complex grease. Old technology but VERY good high performance grease. Probably better than most newer stuff. It is up to 35% barium which is a tad toxic. But all the good stuff is.

I'm going to have to try this stuff.

Also going to try the newer polyura base grease like amsoil. It's supposed to be the type of grease used in sealed bearings and joints. The stuff our oem joints and bearings came with.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by rock2610d
Both my 2000 4x4 excursions have good ball joints. One still has OEM joints on one side that I cannot grease.

What is the proper grease to put in the ball joints?

I am looking at catipiller extreme application Grease 2 NLGI 2.

Want something with plenty of moly, I guess.....suggestions?
The ball joint without a grease fitting...is it a lower? If so, just drill and tap it for a zerk. I did that almost 70k miles ago and so far, so good.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 01:29 PM
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Won't tap the oem joint.

After 108000 mile it's soon to go south, I will replace ball joints and all seals when that happens.

It just seems that there is a VERY wide base of opinion on which ball joints last and which dont.

I am of the opinion that the grease used in replacement ball joints may be the common discrepancy.

A high pressure premium grease may be the solution , as XRF states on their Web site molybdenum is the key.

Since we do not know what grease moog or any other manufacturer of replacement joints put in we don't know if the grease we put in is compatible. For instance a grease that has a lithium complex base is NOT compatible with a grease that has a bentonite clay base, or barium complex, etc.

So all new replacement joints should be perged of any original grease prior use. Load joint purge, turn wheel purge....you get the drift.

Again of you put a polyura base grease in the ball joint and joint came with any of 9 other types of grease in it the two could be incompatible.

What happens if you mix 2 incompatible greases?
I don't know....maybe premature ball joint failure.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 04:14 PM
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I have no doubt inferior ball joints use inferior grease, but putting good grease into an inferior ball joint isn't likely to prolong its life by much.

we cut apart some new joints and had them inspected and the metal analyzed.
it's a good generalization that your cheap joints ( and some name brands ) are just poorly made and use substandard material.

when you put a misshaped ball into a poorly shaped socket and the material is not up to par then no amount of grease is going to keep the 2 parts from grinding themselfs into a sloppy mess.
 
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