Been having a issue of the truck pulling to the left when braking. Went and bought new hoses but I can't seem to get the damn hose off where it converts from a hard line to hose. Truck is 2wd. How do I take that off and what tool? Also, I can't seem to get the drums off either. I'm really new with braked and drums so bear with me

 

You need two flare nut wrenches. A 3/8 on the top fitting and a bigger one (not sure of the size) on the top of the brake hose where the lines connect. After you get them apart you can use a small hammer and screwdriver to knock out the clips.

 

be sure to use some kind of WD40 /Kroil/ etc those lines are almost always stuck and strip out .

 

For the drums, The dust cap has to be removed to access the cotter pin to be removed. Then, the slide on "keeper nut" (this can go back on many different ways to line up the serrations for the cotter pin) . Then the nut and washer can be removed to get to the outer bearing which usually just falls out. Pull on the drum and it will come off. If stuck , you might have to back off the brake adjusting screw. ..Accessed through the elongated hole in the backing plate. Might or might not have a rubber plug in the hole.

 

It's not a good practice to use WD-40 or any other petroleum-based penetrants/oils on brake system components.

The rubber seals, cups, etc. in a brake system are designed for brake fluid. Brake fluid is a synthetic and not petroleum-based fluid.

Petroleum oils will swell the rubber seals if it gets into the brake system and comes in contact with the rubber seals. This will lead to brake component failure.

If you're going to use a penetrant on brake fittings and whatnot, it needs to be one that's synthetic.

There are various brands of synthetic penetrant oils available. This is just one example of the many synthetic penetrant brands.

http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/656

 

i meant on the metal to rubber line as , I have almost stripped the bolt even with a flare wrench .

 

The nature of penetrating oils is to get into things. If you spray a penetrating fluid on the brake line fittings and break them loose, some of that oil is going to make its way into the flexible or hard line tubing. It only takes a small amount of petroleum-based fluid to come in contact with the rubber components inside the brake parts to do its 'magic' and cause them to fail.

Synthetic penetrant oils are fine for this but petroleum oils are risky to use in this application.

 

First thing to do is buy the shop manual for the year your truck was made and study it. I've been turning a wrench for a long time but don't try to memorize everything, and being methodical and organized makes for better maintenance, and there are always safety issues as well. When we get in a hurry, or frustrated, hot weather cold weather, people take shortcuts. Just Sayin'.

Drums will be rusted on typically. If you're certain all the hardware has been removed the application of heat from a torch will help to break the bond, and maybe some love taps from a dead blow hammer. Focus the heat right around the area on the drum where the wheel studs emerge.

Brakes are nothing to half-***. But if you follow the procedures outlined in the manual carefully you won't go wrong, with all the resources at your fingertips it's possible to do a first class brake job. It will just take longer. Drum brakes have a fairly high learning curve believe it or not, yet another reason to follow the directions. At least, a lot of people sure do seem to screw them up royally. By taking your time, doing it right and taking no shortcuts you'll avoid the nonsense and the marathon all night brake bleeding sessions. The best part is the brakes will actually work great first time, and just get better.

A set of flare wrenches are essential if you are doing brake work. Those funny looking brake 5 dollar brake spring pliars are too. Most people don't know how to use them, I sure as hell didn't. They are not employed the way they look, at all. YouTube is pretty good for stuff like this.

These trucks have nearly always been worked HARD and put away wet. Everything has to be inspected and replaced if necessary, the brake system especially. Rubber this old, hoses must be replaced but that won't necessarily solve the problem.

Weak return springs could do it. They should always be renewed as part of a good brake job.

Backing plates have 6 pads each, that the shoes ride and slide on, these eventually get deep groves worn into the metal. This can cause pulling to one side.

The drums could be mismatched in size. Leaking oil from the differential, or brake fluid from the wheel cylinders could have soaked into the brake shoes, that can cause pulling to one side too.

Even misadjusted or worn wheel bearings could contribute to pulling to one side. Just trying to make the point here that you'll have to accept the fact that on something of this vintage, no maintenance or labor is likely to go ANYWHERE near according to plan. Ya hafta yank everything off and take a look see.

Looked at my 64s brake system and realized

A. The hoses (and hard lines) needed replaced
and
B. So did everything else.

Didn't want to end up at a work stoppage halfway in my garage for something stupid and finding hoses that wouldn't budge, and not being to drive it either. Shops have a lift. Shops have blue wrenches! While I can still learn some new tricks it might take a while. So it was worth it for me to pay a shop to change the hard 50+ year old hard line, and rubber hoses.

Replaced the Master cylinder, 4 drums, shoes, spring kits and hardware, wheel cylinders etc myself. This cost more than I had planned for but it turned out a "do it once do it right" deal as well. Don't mind working on the truck but dislike going back over the same stupid **** over and over. Brakes are the classic way to do that, even though these are the easiest brakes to work on. Hope this helps.

 

2X Tedster's comments! you'll be lucky if a brake "mistake" doesn't get somebody hurt.

 

Also pulling to the left may be from the right side front or even the right rear failures.
You need to remove all wheels drums and inspect everything, You can't an should not do patch up work on any brake system.

I think this is over your head an should seek out someone who knows more then you. As the inner & outer bearing should be inspected & repacked or replaced an hub sealas needed.
Orich