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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

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Old May 1, 2016 | 08:05 AM
  #46  
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From: evansville in
Originally Posted by ReBilld
7.3s don't make very good mud trucks. The engine weighs 1000 lbs. and they tend to sink like a rock! LOL!
Just need bigger tires!! Lol float that pig!
 
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Old May 1, 2016 | 10:50 AM
  #47  
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Whatever I end up using as a mud truck will start out with some 44s... And go up from there.

I've just gotta find two Dana 60 fronts now... One for Charlee, one for the 76
 
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Old Jun 16, 2016 | 12:42 PM
  #48  
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From: Aransas Pass, Tx
Review before I get started on the current situation:

The things I have replaced so far since it last fired up:
IPR o rings
Injector O rings
HPOP o ring (seal from res to pump)
BB mod
Riffraff sticker on back glass
Brand new batteries

Now to the problem:
It started up with some coaxing as would be expected after injector o rings, etc. Romped for a few seconds and then the idle evened out and sounded great. Blue smoke out of tail pipe as you would expect.

Drove it 5 miles down the road giving it some good throttle, running great. Turned around, made it a half mile, and the motor cut out like a light. Here is what I have done so far:

Tach moves, I have WTS light
Fuel bowl filling, HPOP res full
plenty of juice to crank, turns over very quickly.
ICP is at 54% while cranking, 14% while just sitting there (normal?)
I followed the no start chart and it led me to a bad HPOP, IPR o rings, wiring, or sensor.

Also, I noticed that the HPOP res was full up to the top... Isn't it supposed to be like an inch below the top of the res?

Very frustrating. It was running so well!!!
 
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Old Jun 16, 2016 | 02:13 PM
  #49  
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From: evansville in
Originally Posted by Jarrett Campbell
Review before I get started on the current situation:

The things I have replaced so far since it last fired up:
IPR o rings
Injector O rings
HPOP o ring (seal from res to pump)
BB mod
Riffraff sticker on back glass
Brand new batteries

Now to the problem:
It started up with some coaxing as would be expected after injector o rings, etc. Romped for a few seconds and then the idle evened out and sounded great. Blue smoke out of tail pipe as you would expect.

Drove it 5 miles down the road giving it some good throttle, running great. Turned around, made it a half mile, and the motor cut out like a light. Here is what I have done so far:

Tach moves, I have WTS light
Fuel bowl filling, HPOP res full
plenty of juice to crank, turns over very quickly.
ICP is at 54% while cranking, 14% while just sitting there (normal?)
I followed the no start chart and it led me to a bad HPOP, IPR o rings, wiring, or sensor.

Also, I noticed that the HPOP res was full up to the top... Isn't it supposed to be like an inch below the top of the res?

Very frustrating. It was running so well!!!
What pressure @54%dc?
 
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Old Jun 16, 2016 | 02:53 PM
  #50  
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Also check IPR wiring, but you prolly already know that.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2016 | 03:01 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by BBslider001
Also check IPR wiring, but you prolly already know that.
The guys that rebuilt the thing replaced the whole engine harness. All the sensors are new and the connectors are in really really good shape. I wonder if I put the stuff back together wrong....?

How touchy is the hpop res and ipr re-ring?

I don't know the pressure it was making @54%. I'll find out tonight though!
 
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Old Jun 16, 2016 | 07:33 PM
  #52  
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From: Aransas Pass, Tx
Got it all hooked up.

54% duty cycle
170 psi icp
.45v icp

And it says 180 rpm

Also, battery and brake lights never shut off, even with key out.... And it turned over for like two seconds as soon as I hooked the first battery up... I think my parts truck is haunted. Also, the running lights won't turn off. W. T. F.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2016 | 09:51 PM
  #53  
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From: evansville in
Originally Posted by Jarrett Campbell
Got it all hooked up.

54% duty cycle
170 psi icp
.45v icp

And it says 180 rpm

Also, battery and brake lights never shut off, even with key out.... And it turned over for like two seconds as soon as I hooked the first battery up... I think my parts truck is haunted. Also, the running lights won't turn off. W. T. F.
170psi won't fire the injectors. You need 500... Ther is a leak or bad pump or ipr...go fish lol
 
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Old Jun 17, 2016 | 06:18 AM
  #54  
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My money is when I resealed the IPR, I did something wrong....

now I have to pull the stinking bowl again. Poo.

Thank you very much for the help!
 
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Old Jun 17, 2016 | 08:16 AM
  #55  
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From: evansville in
Originally Posted by Jarrett Campbell
My money is when I rebuilt the IPR, I did something wrong....

now I have to pull the stinking bowl again. Poo.

Thank you very much for the help!
Or injector oring. Pull vc and crank .look for the bubblin crude.

Or the pump dun broke
 
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Old Jun 17, 2016 | 08:19 AM
  #56  
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The pump was replaced very recently. Not ruling it out, but it's supposedly got very few miles.

I'll pop the vcs to look for bubbles while cranking. It was weird how it shut off... just all at once like a switch was flipped.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2016 | 08:48 AM
  #57  
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The IPR stuck! These can't be rebuilt, very very small tolerances.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2016 | 09:11 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by oldbird1965
The IPR stuck! These can't be rebuilt, very very small tolerances.
I replaced the o-rings, spacer thing, and tin nut. I didn't get into the sensor itself.

I thought what I did was something possible to DIY?
 
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Old Jun 17, 2016 | 09:19 AM
  #59  
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From: Bahstun
you can reseal them, not rebuild them
 
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Old Jun 17, 2016 | 09:25 AM
  #60  
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From: Aransas Pass, Tx
Originally Posted by knottyrope
you can reseal them, not rebuild them
Oops sorry. I fixed my post. Thanks guys
 
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