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I guess my question about that specific trans code is does it pop up when the overheat happens and then is wiped when you restart the vehicle or does it have to be removed by ford? I tried to erase the code but every time I did, it would come back. The answer to this would tell me whether I'm actually overheating (or it overheated at some point in the past) or if there is a bad sensor telling the pcm that it is constantly over temp even if it is operating correctly.
If its showing that code as soon as you fire it up I would say its a bad sensor. After driving it enough to heat it up, pull the dipstick and feel how hot the fluid is. Or maybe lay your hand on the pan.
I guess my question about that specific trans code is does it pop up when the overheat happens and then is wiped when you restart the vehicle or does it have to be removed by ford? I tried to erase the code but every time I did, it would come back. The answer to this would tell me whether I'm actually overheating (or it overheated at some point in the past) or if there is a bad sensor telling the pcm that it is constantly over temp even if it is operating correctly.
It'll keep coming back if the sensor is bad. Once you replace it and clear it, they should stay gone if that is, in fact, the problem.
If it comes up right away, even when the powertrain is at "room temperature", you could check the TFT at key-on engine-off. Should be within a few degrees of IAT and EOT. If not, that points to a bad sensor.
Hey guys finally able to work on brownie. Mud nats down in Jacksonville and well issues kept me busy all weekend. So I got all the gauges off and into the spare parts shelf, and the ts6 chip, grill guard, rear bumper, and headache rack up on Craigslist and eBay.
I came across this plug in one of the map pockets... Any ideas what it's for?
took the hpop res off to see what o ring to buy and I find this...gravel???? Anyone ever seen this strainer looking thing? Looks to be a part of the o ring itself
I wonder why the thing was leaking though. The o ring appears to be in good shape, and there was silicone in there too. I hope a fresh one does the trick!!
So now I have to figure out how to wash that reservoir out.
I read that you want to make sure you get the proper hpop res gasket for the proper year. Some come without a strainer, but it looks like yours did. Mine, being a 95, didn't come with the strainer. If I put that gasket with the strainer on, apparently it would crack the timing cover! I don't know how gravel would get in there though....
This is a freshly rebuilt block (rings, bearings, the whole 9 yards) 15k ago, shiny new starter, oil cooler, HPOP, fuel pump... the list goes on. The kid I bought it from had a lot of money/parts thrown at it by questionable mechanics, and I will bet you they put the strainer o ring on thinking it would work better than non strained. All I can say is I'm glad they did it because it would really suck if those rocks had gotten through to the injectors.
OK so I've been working on my trucks after work all week. So far, new HPOP o ring, IPR rebuilt, CCV o rings, and new fuel lines around the fuel bowl. When I pulled the bowl, straight oil came out of the sucker so I figured some injector o rings and a new fuel filter was in order... So I will be trying my brand new compression gauge out and changing injector o rings at the same time!
Compression numbers to follow.
Also, can I do a compression test with no glow plugs in the motor? I was going to purge the oil by cranking with no glow plugs, and then take all 8 measurements at the same time, and then install all the glow plugs.
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