Heavy vibration @ 70mph
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 614
Likes: 1
If it's the tires, and the truck is jacked up with jacks under the axle, then the truck won't shake on jacks. So that's a useful test, but it may not be what you think.
When you are going down the road, and the tires are shaking, the axle is going up and down a bunch. The jacks don't allow it to do that.
When you are going down the road, and the tires are shaking, the axle is going up and down a bunch. The jacks don't allow it to do that.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 14,069
Likes: 17
From: Melbourne, Ky
With it on jackstands, you can tell if it is the driveshaft or if the wheels are out of balance. Also, (and the guy operating the tire balancer should be able to see this if it is an issue) you can check for tire run-out. How much out of round are the tires. All tires have a little of that.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2015
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My 7.3 had the same shake, ended up somehow it lost the balance weight off the drive shaft. You could see where the weld was but the weight was gone. Sent it out for balancing no more vibration. Just another thing to check
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New User
Joined: Mar 2016
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The carrier bearing is encased in a rubber isolator and it does have some play in the isolator. The bearing it self should not have any movement. Pry up on the driveshaft and when the isolator stops moveing look closely at the bearing where the driveshaft passes through, if it shows any movement there then yes you need to replace it. Usually though those carrier bearings hold up for a good while, it is the rear universal joint at the rear axle pinion yoke that is the first to go.
When checking u joints, set the parking brake on the vehicle, chock both sides of each rear wheel to prevent vehicle movement in any direction, and place the transmission into neutral. Insert a pry bar in between the yokes of the driveshafts and the u joints. Pry on the yoke like you are trying to turn the driveshaft and look for any movement what so ever in the u joint, if you see any then the joint needs to be replaced. Repeat this at all universal joint locations in the driveshaft. They are supposed to hold a tight tolerance and no movement is acceptable. If you have movement then the two driveshafts are not running in the same rotational centerline and a vibration in that line is produced.
I hope this helps, sorry for the long explanation, I've been working on cars and trucks since I was 5, it is second nature and a lot is easier said then done when trying to decibe it with detail . I just hope I did not provide any confusion. I will say this, $40.00 for a u joint is a lot easier to spend then $1000.00 for tires.
When checking u joints, set the parking brake on the vehicle, chock both sides of each rear wheel to prevent vehicle movement in any direction, and place the transmission into neutral. Insert a pry bar in between the yokes of the driveshafts and the u joints. Pry on the yoke like you are trying to turn the driveshaft and look for any movement what so ever in the u joint, if you see any then the joint needs to be replaced. Repeat this at all universal joint locations in the driveshaft. They are supposed to hold a tight tolerance and no movement is acceptable. If you have movement then the two driveshafts are not running in the same rotational centerline and a vibration in that line is produced.
I hope this helps, sorry for the long explanation, I've been working on cars and trucks since I was 5, it is second nature and a lot is easier said then done when trying to decibe it with detail . I just hope I did not provide any confusion. I will say this, $40.00 for a u joint is a lot easier to spend then $1000.00 for tires.
I Didn't notice because the other tire next to it is holding 70psi well. I switch the tire for another used tire and that oscillation @ 70 mph is gone. It still has some vibration at 70 and it starts around 35. I'm thinking it could be a carrier bearing or u joint like your describing.
They also mentioned a little play in my driver side front tire. May need to repack the bearing it just adjust it a little.
Thank you for all your help !
Let you know how it goes
New User
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 10
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it looks like you may have aluminum wheels (if your avi is of your truck) if so youre inside duals are steel. make sure the shop remeasured your steel wheels on the balancer as they arent the same dimensions as the aluminum ones. my stepdad had a crazy vibration at about 70 and turned out the tire tech didnt remeasure for the steel wheels. If they are saying all of your wheels are bent then Id bet they didnt chuck the wheel with the correct cone.
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New User
Joined: Mar 2016
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it looks like you may have aluminum wheels (if your avi is of your truck) if so youre inside duals are steel. make sure the shop remeasured your steel wheels on the balancer as they arent the same dimensions as the aluminum ones. my stepdad had a crazy vibration at about 70 and turned out the tire tech didnt remeasure for the steel wheels. If they are saying all of your wheels are bent then Id bet they didnt chuck the wheel with the correct cone.
It was tires plus who said the inners were bent. I don't trust those guys to much. Going to take it to ford to do a road force balance. See what they tell me.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,708
Likes: 7
From: Circle City
there's a TSB regarding repositioning (shimming) the carrier bearing due to high speed vibration. The fix is a plate that mounts between the bearing and where it mounts.
I don't have the TSB saved on this computer. Maybe someone can share that info.
I don't have the TSB saved on this computer. Maybe someone can share that info.
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New User
Joined: Mar 2016
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Likes: 0
If someone has this info , please share!
Thanks benchwrench
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 10,154
Likes: 7,984
From: Texas
Another thing that I have not seen mentioned in all the posts is the possibility of a bent or out af balance drive shaft. They can be bent so slightly that one can not see it with the eye, and give vibrations just like what your video shows.
And one more possibility is that your drive shaft ujoints are out of phase, i.e. not correctly lined up with each other.
DRIVE LINE PHASING
Good luck
And one more possibility is that your drive shaft ujoints are out of phase, i.e. not correctly lined up with each other.
DRIVE LINE PHASING
Good luck
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,708
Likes: 7
From: Circle City
Because it's an old TSB (2005?) it was most likely a warranty claim back- in- the- day. Shimming was the next step to isolate driveline vibrations. Yes, there is a Ford part number for the kit.
Now, today, (2016) your bearing has many miles, and fatigued rubber isolator so shimming may not be the fix but to replace it.
Now, today, (2016) your bearing has many miles, and fatigued rubber isolator so shimming may not be the fix but to replace it.
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