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So thank you in advance, but I need the knowledge of you guys at this moment. I purchase my truck with the truck partially converted to 4x4 all ready(front 4x4 ttb installed). The PO also had the m5r2 and bw1356 transmission. That needed to be installed. Which had different housings then I needed. I then sold those to get a new matching set with what I needed.
I was wanting to install everything this coming week and realised that the crossmember looks to be wrong. I know that the crossmem Berlin needs a drop in it to allow the front driveline. The one from the factory for the 4x2 is straight across. The one that came with the truck , for the conversion, has a drop but looks like it's for the zf transmission.
Is this the correct one? Or will I have to get a differs one (and shatter m hopes of install anytime soon? ) again thanks for all the help
If no one chimes in I can look at my truck after work and let you know. If it is the wrong one though, you may be able to swap trans and trans case bit not put in the front driveshaft. Do you already have the correct shafts for the swap?
Have you tried bolting it up? The manual crossmember for the 5 spds (not sure about the non od trannys) are the same or are compatible with one another. And x2 on the hump, I don't think I've seen that on manuals but that doesn't mean that it won't just bolt in and work, or work with minor modification.
I have the transmission 4x4 m5r2, transfer case, and both correct driveshafts. I have a 4x2 m5r2 and the crossmember is flat across, I was under the assumption that there was a drop on the driver side that allowed for the front drive shaft
If you're not lifted it's probably not an issue either way...I had to hack my crossmember when going from mazda trans to zf5, prob from a slight difference in trans length and/or zf sits lower. I cut a "U" about halfway through the x member, then welded gussets/support under.
Either way, if you have a welder you can just wing it. If you're not lifted, it likely won't be an issue. If it is an issue, it won't be by much.
I can't give you a measurement but I've been around the block a few times....if the front driveshaft is what you're concerned about, put that on the back burner. There will be kinks to iron out with most swaps....I wouldn't be too concerned about a front driveshaft considering you can just measure yourself once it's all together AND still get around.
Sure, it'd be nice for someone to chime in with a measurement, but you have a lot to do until you need to bolt the d shaft up. You could also go to the jy to see if the cab/trans/tcase config of what you want matches what you have.
I can't give you a measurement but I've been around the block a few times....if the front driveshaft is what you're concerned about, put that on the back burner. There will be kinks to iron out with most swaps....I wouldn't be too concerned about a front driveshaft considering you can just measure yourself once it's all together AND still get around.
Sure, it'd be nice for someone to chime in with a measurement, but you have a lot to do until you need to bolt the d shaft up. You could also go to the jy to see if the cab/trans/tcase config of what you want matches what you have.
^^ I completely agree with you. This is my daily driver. And want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row. Also if I don't have this squared away it would be a while till I could get around to getting the front driveline figured out. I got a busy few months coming up. Wife is pregnant with our 5th boy and due in a few months. And also more of a vehicle deal, a zone deer starts second weekend in july. I was hoping to have the swap installed and most of the kinks smoothed out.
The good thing about what you're doing is that it's straight forward using factory parts. There won't be any heavy mods, or finding parts that will work in union.....you know all the parts will work cuz therr were millions produced and installed in these trucks. Worst case scenario, your driveshaft spends a day at a shop getting lengthened or shortened.
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