If it helps you to chat through some options, we can sure visit with you about this and can hook you up with any number of alternator options from either DC Power or Leece Neville that will be sized for your application and work great!

 

Wel it is definitely allot to think about...

At least I know in a pinch I can do a jumpstart. I did have this nagging concern of hooking up that inverter, I'm glad I didn't do that now.

So, looks like I just have to build it better...Now I'm thinking of going the bigger Alternator, to a battery bank, with solar and the inverter connected...In this case what is the highest amp alternator to go with, what type of battery(s) to go with (marine-deep Cycle?) and solar panels?

And yes I did think it might be an easy question, silly me. LOL

I love this forum, lots of good info and advice, thanks guys for the help.

 

Appreciate that Ed, would love to see what you got for this issue. BTW just noticed that these trucks have an option of a dual alternator? Interesting.

 

Yeah, most of us have asked those: "this is probably a really easy question", type questions before -- and some of them are. Then some as the great folks here probe deeper turn into finding something one might never have thought of or recognized -- a great group of folks here...

So, let's start with your camping needs and work backwards, because I think you are still looking at this as a: "truck charges dry-camp batteries on the road between camp sites", solution; when maybe it is a: "solar charges camp batteries all the time", or some blend of the two.

What kind of camping are we talking about? is it a cross country(s) expedition with lots of miles and just overnight stops? or: go to the hunting camp and set-up for a week? Tell us that, and also what the camp set-up will be: a self-contained camper? a tent and you just need some lights at night?

And still making sure you have a good alternator for just the truck's needs is important...

 

OK good point,

Trucks main purpose was to pull a boat, and flat tow a Jeep. It has a camper shell on it, and shortly I will be making some storage containers to carry and hold all residual camping gear all the time. Truck is 4wd, would like to use it to get into semi-remote area's (dry camp).

Camping role/type of camping, generally we stay put in one location (90% of the time) due to the amount of setup for our camp, for longer camp durations 2+ days I will flat tow my jeep to the camp as a get around vehicle.

I will rarely do any cross country trips 8+hrs drive time, normal camp trip would be inside 2hrs, longer would be 8 hrs or less for drive time one way.

I get what your saying though, I think a combo setup would be idea with solar to recharge battery bank while parked in camp, and the battery bank tied into the alternator to recharge while driving or if in camp I could idle the truck.

Use of this would be for some low power LED camp lights, and to recharge camera/phone and computer batteries occasionally.

 

ok, based on that, I think you could get by with a single deep cycle battery and I'm guessing you'll mount it in the bed area? Just to be safe, go with the more expensive AGM battery so you don't have to worry about gassing and they handle deeper discharges better than a flooded cell. Pick up an inexpensive portable solar panel set with a charge controller that you can unpack at camp and set-up facing south in as sunny a spot as you can. You'll arrive with a fully charged battery and the panels will replace most if not all power you use each night...

I'm out of town on a borrowed computer so I can help you more on the solar end, if you need help, when I'm back this weekend.

Good luck!

 

Thx, looks as if I got a "next project", the wife will be thrilled...LOL

BTW, how can one identify what type and amp of alternator that is in the truck already? Got this truck 2 yrs ago and just wondering if the P.O. might have changed it out?

Thx

 

Take a few photos of it and in one shot try to put a rule across the front of it to try to get a size on its body. 110a are one size, 140a have a larger case, etc. one of us can probably ID it.

Once the GPs are off the batteries will take 40-60a for the first few minutes, then taper down to about 25a in 5 minutes. After 15 minutes it will be down to -18a all for PCM/FICM/GEM so the headroom to additional charging will depend on what other accessories you have on and the alternators ability after that. At idle the stock 110a is capable of 60a, the Bosch about 100a, etc.

 

If you are going to mount batteries in the back for camping I would recommend using either 2-6 volt golf cart batteries in series to equal 12 volts or if you have room 2 sets of golf cart batts in a series/parallel layout to give 12 volts and a lot more capacity. As far as alternators go I run a 230 amp Leece Neville #AVI160T2002-2. It has 2 internal fans for cooling and is a true heavy duty alternator, just look under the hood of most big rigs and you will find one. DC Power also makes a good product and Ed@ficmrepair.com has great service and prices on those. I have had better luck with LN but DC Power is a good unit. Also unless you already have a dual alt setup forget it and just up grade to one of the above mentioned alts.

 

It is true you'll get more power capacity with a flooded cell golf cart battery set, but you also get the extra maintenance too with them and the importance of properly venting the battery box, (because these should be enclosed in one). If his power needs are low, which is sounds like, an AGM will be easier to set up and no maintenance or safety issues to deal with.

 

Hey JetJockey! I agree - the alternator is a HUGE component of all of this. We now carry not just the DC Power alternators, but also the Leece-Neville units. With the Leece-Neville units, we also provide the option of a smaller diameter pulley instead of folks just transferring their old larger pulley to the new L-N unit (as they don't natively come with a pulley at all).

Ultimately, there are cases where the L-N unit is the better choice and cases where the DC Power unit wins out. Conveniently, we now carry both!

 

Go there. Something to entertain, for this projects for me, would buy AGM 12 volts, as they can help you start in case you run batteries to low, I would consider 1 is cheaper than two golf cart, and you need two of those to get to 12 volts for charging from the alternator. I would think AGM in batteriy boxes up under the box mounted to the frame on each side, ahead of the rear wheels, in van battery boxes would be pretty slick, won't take up room in the box, don't have to worry about the safety issues of sleeping in the box on a mattress. You can set up that your new alternator only charges the truck batteries, or all four when running down the road depending on your needs. Just some thoughts, I used to camp out of the old truck all the time, air mattress in the box, canopy makes for a nice rain proof roof ocpver your head.

 

My experience with a 240v inverter (5000w pure sine) was ok within limits of the battery I had hooked up to the F250 batteries -my 2018 came with twin alternators so that may be the game changer when using a 240v inverter. I found however that leaving a camp fridge on , I miscalculated the stationary tiime before the battery went flat - the inverter takes about 2amp hours so, after 3 days no fridge. After going for a run for about 20 minutes the fridge started working again and the battery charged up ok when I continued my trip - I pasted a reminder sticker on the dash "Turn off the Inverter" at the same time. I recently purchased a lithium deep cycle 120 amp Hr capacity but have yet to test it for duribility or length of time the charge remains. I believe lithium batteries can be drawn down lower than the standard batteries and are lighter in weight and last a lot longer. I also have a camper that has solar panels hooked up but have found they can't be relied on if you want a fully charged system - depends also the amount of sunlight you get and remembering to change the panels facing the sun when it moves around which can be overlooked. As most of our panels in Australia are chinese origin we find their market claims as to efficiency must be seen through a squint as solar panels at best are only 18-20% efficient and their electronic controlers leave a lot to be desired also - be aware