Determine correct EEC from calibration code
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Determine correct EEC from calibration code
I'm pretty sure my EEC is causing my constant and ever changing problems with my 1988 F350 7.5l 460. I would like to make sure I order the correct one as I've heard of people buying used trucks only to discover that a prior owner swapped the EEC with an incorrect replacement. I've heard you can determine the correct EEC with the calibration code. Mine is 7-98A-R10 & E8AE-6E061-AFZ. Can some kind guru help me out and let me know which EEC I need to order?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
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What would I do without you SubFord? Thank you again as always! That is the one that is in there now and it sure looks original. I have already replaced the leaky capacitor in it but its the only thing left to replace. All the sensors and relays are new, the wiring has been gone through and the vacuum lines are good. My truck is still stalling and more frequently now...cold or hot doesn't matter. Only code left is a 33 because my EGR is blocked off and my fuel pressure is holding good even when it stalls so I think all the pumps are ok (did replace the pressure regulator because it looked ancient and sad). When it does stall, I have to turn it off to recrank it although it does recrank just fine...but it won't fire again unless the key is turned completely off first. It's like something has to be reset...I can only think that is the computer at this point?
Thank you again as always! That is the one that is in there now and it sure looks original. I have already replaced the leaky capacitor in it but its the only thing left to replace. All the sensors and relays are new, the wiring has been gone through and the vacuum lines are good. My truck is still stalling and more frequently now...cold or hot doesn't matter. Only code left is a 33 because my EGR is blocked off and my fuel pressure is holding good even when it stalls so I think all the pumps are ok (did replace the pressure regulator because it looked ancient and sad). When it does stall, I have to turn it off to recrank it although it does recrank just fine...but it won't fire again unless the key is turned completely off first. It's like something has to be reset...I can only think that is the computer at this point?
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From: Easton,Ks
When it dies you need to check for spark without turning it off.
When it dies you need to check to see if the injectors are firing by cranking without turning it off.
You might also try driving it with the SPOUT out to see if it dies with the SPOUT out.
Are the fuel pumps running after it dies with the key still on?
Are you letting the KOEO part of the self-test run long enough to see if you have any codes in CM?
If you are having PIP sensor problems that is the only place the PIP code will show up.
When it dies you need to check to see if the injectors are firing by cranking without turning it off.
You might also try driving it with the SPOUT out to see if it dies with the SPOUT out.
Are the fuel pumps running after it dies with the key still on?
Are you letting the KOEO part of the self-test run long enough to see if you have any codes in CM?
If you are having PIP sensor problems that is the only place the PIP code will show up.
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If I crank it without turning it off it will not start.
I am letting the KOEO test run and no CM codes...I get an 11 both times on KOEO.
I did drive it with the SPOUT out and it does NOT die with it out. I have gotten a code 18 in the past and ran a new SPOUT wire which seemed to solve that problem. Maybe I should try pulling the SPOUT again?
I don't hear the fuel pumps running after it dies I only know that it holds pressure. Should I check for voltage at the pump? Thank you so much for your knowledge!
I am letting the KOEO test run and no CM codes...I get an 11 both times on KOEO.
I did drive it with the SPOUT out and it does NOT die with it out. I have gotten a code 18 in the past and ran a new SPOUT wire which seemed to solve that problem. Maybe I should try pulling the SPOUT again?
I don't hear the fuel pumps running after it dies I only know that it holds pressure. Should I check for voltage at the pump? Thank you so much for your knowledge!
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From: Easton,Ks
Not dying with the SPOUT out tells me it is the PCM (EEC) computer.
Code 18 has nothing to do with the SPOUT wire.
If it was a CM 18 that would mean you lost the IDM information going to the computer.
If it was a KOER 18 that would mean you lost power to the computer. Maybe bad wiring under the EEC Power relay.
Code 18 has nothing to do with the SPOUT wire.
If it was a CM 18 that would mean you lost the IDM information going to the computer.
If it was a KOER 18 that would mean you lost power to the computer. Maybe bad wiring under the EEC Power relay.
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It had an ignition problem when I first bought it and it would not crank. I bought a new TFI from Motorcraft, put a new PIP sensor in the distributor and a new coil also as well as new cap, rotor and wires. The PIP sensor was just a part from Oreillys and I wondered if I should have bought a Motorcraft PIP also. Back then if we pulled the SPOUT it would fire but would not start with it in. I thought we had an open SPOUT circuit from the code and ran a new wire and it ran pretty well for about a month. Sounds like the computer has been the trouble all along. Any recommendations on which kind to buy? I know some of the remans are bad right out of the box and ones sitting around can have bad caps because they sat around too long.
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By the way, what the heck is the bare wire for that is wrapped around the SPOUT, PIP wires going to the computer? I know there was a TSB about it and we opened it all up and didnt' see an immediate problem. Can you pull out that bare wire or does it need to be there?
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Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
I would not think it is causing it when the problem goes away when pulling the SPOUT out.
If the PIP signal is week it may cause some problems I would think.
Can not comment too much on this as I have not been around a truck that had no shielding.
If the PIP signal is week it may cause some problems I would think.
Can not comment too much on this as I have not been around a truck that had no shielding.
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It's not all gone but some of it did crumble. I'll go back in and add some back just to cover my bases.
I guess the computer has to be the main issue at this point. Hopefully I can find a good one somewhere.
I guess the computer has to be the main issue at this point. Hopefully I can find a good one somewhere.
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UPDATE: Got home and started truck and it stalled in 30 secs. Pulled SPOUT and restarted. It ran her rough for about 5 mins and eventually stalled out. I recranked it and reconnected the SPOUT which made it die immediately. Does this sound like a PCM issue?
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From: Easton,Ks
Could be but I am not sure.
If it was mine I would just plug in a spare computer and see if the engine would run OK.
Did you replace all the caps in the computer or only one?
Most any computer from that time will sub for a test from the same engine size.
If it was mine I would just plug in a spare computer and see if the engine would run OK.
Did you replace all the caps in the computer or only one?
Most any computer from that time will sub for a test from the same engine size.