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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Determine correct EEC from calibration code

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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 08:59 AM
  #31  
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I checked #20 case ground and #40 and #60 that go back to the battery. 40 & 60 had .8 ohms and 20 had about 1.2...that indicates the grounds are ok correct? Next stop is the ignition switch and plug.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 09:08 AM
  #32  
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From: Easton,Ks
Also make sure you have a good body ground from the NEG post of the battery to the fender (not the frame).
Then make sure the large NEG battery cable goes to the engine block. You may also ground the frame but it is not necessary unless you pull a trailer or use it in some non stock way.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 09:14 AM
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I do use (will use once its running) this truck to pull my horse trailer. How should I ground the frame?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 09:39 AM
  #34  
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From: Easton,Ks
Some NEG ground cables have a center lug for bolting to the frame for this purpose. If you do not have that then you would need to run a 10GA or larger wire from the NEG battery post to the frame or run it all the way to the trailer connector plug. The trailer connector plug has a white ground wire that normally bolts to the frame (not the bed) but you can run this white wire all the way to the battery NEG post if your frame is not grounded.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 10:22 AM
  #35  
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You know what's a really weird coincidence? This truck was running absolutely fine until I took it in to a hitch shop to get a brake controller installed. (I know super lazy and could have done it myself) Makes me wonder if they did something weird with the grounds when installing the controller and plug because they came back to me twice while I was waiting to tell me they were having trouble getting the wiring correct. Hmmmmmm. If they did something funky with the grounds I wonder if that is causing my stall condition. The truck had never stalled before I took it to the hitch shop. I do know the white wire coming off the controller is just going to a screw on some metal inside the cab of the truck under the dash. I haven't checked the plug wiring but I sure will this weekend. Although, its hard to imagine installing a brake controller and plug weird could cause your engine to stall...
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 10:55 AM
  #36  
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by mwilliams0326
You know what's a really weird coincidence? This truck was running absolutely fine until I took it in to a hitch shop to get a brake controller installed. (I know super lazy and could have done it myself) Makes me wonder if they did something weird with the grounds when installing the controller and plug because they came back to me twice while I was waiting to tell me they were having trouble getting the wiring correct. Hmmmmmm. If they did something funky with the grounds I wonder if that is causing my stall condition. The truck had never stalled before I took it to the hitch shop. I do know the white wire coming off the controller is just going to a screw on some metal inside the cab of the truck under the dash. I haven't checked the plug wiring but I sure will this weekend. Although, its hard to imagine installing a brake controller and plug weird could cause your engine to stall...
If they moved the NEG ground wire from the body to the frame it could. If so you need to add another ground wire from the NEG post to the body fender sheet metal.
Also make sure the big NEG ground cable is still going to engine block.

The controller should be wired something like this:


/
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 12:21 PM
  #37  
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The white ground is just screwed under the dash, the red is going to the fuseable link power circuit (the truck came wired for towing). Blue is correct. Green however is just going to the brake pedal. I had read that on this year model truck because of the rear anti lock you should tap into the crescent connector on the steering column instead of down at the brake pedal. Why is that? It looks like the exact same wire?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 12:27 PM
  #38  
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From: Easton,Ks
The dash where the white wire is screwed in, is that point a ground?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 12:32 PM
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From: Easton,Ks
If your truck was wired for towing it should have had four pin plug to just plug the controller into.

/
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 12:45 PM
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Does the green wire go to 2 places? The diagram is showing it goes to brake switch and the multi function switch? I'm not following that part. Is it suppose to get the brake signal from the wire on the steering column like the brake controller instructions say or is that a misprint?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 01:16 PM
  #41  
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From: Easton,Ks
The 1988 truck wiring diagram to not say where to hook the green wire too.
But I would guess near S200.




/
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 05:52 PM
  #42  
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This is the only plug I can find not being used? But it only has 3 wires.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 07:45 PM
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From: Easton,Ks
They more than likely cut the factory plug off when they wired in the brake controller.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 07:56 PM
  #44  
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[QUOTE=subford;16154638]They more than likely cut the factory plug off when they wired in the brake controller

Yeah they just wired into the red and blue wires near the drivers kick panel and ground the white wire. I checked where they grounded and it is a good ground in the cab. Plug is grounded to frame at back and it seems to g a good ground too. Battery neg is connected to bolt that holds starter on and found a braided cable ground running from engine bracket to body. Checked frame ground and got 8 ohms resistance....too much?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 08:10 PM
  #45  
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From: Easton,Ks
Those braided cable grounds are for static and are not very good items to use for grounds as the ends are just slip on between the body and the frame. You need a dedicated ground wire from the NEG battery and the body and to the frame + the large ground cable going to the starter mounting bolt.
 
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