Determine correct EEC from calibration code
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Junior User
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That sounds like a good idea. There was only 1 barrel shaped capacitor in this computer that was leaking and that's all I replaced. I was thinking there would be 2 inside but only found 1.
After you told me about the shielding I found the person helping me had fully ran a new PIP, IGN ground and SPOUT wire and had them draped across the spark plug wires outside of the shielding.
Obviously not a good thing so I have to get those wires shielded again and moved. Just moving them away from the plug wires kept it from stalling for a bit and I was able to drive it a little in my neighborhood. Then it would only stall upon deceleration which makes me wonder if the PIP sensor got fried after having its wire draped across the plug wires with no shielding.
After you told me about the shielding I found the person helping me had fully ran a new PIP, IGN ground and SPOUT wire and had them draped across the spark plug wires outside of the shielding.
Obviously not a good thing so I have to get those wires shielded again and moved. Just moving them away from the plug wires kept it from stalling for a bit and I was able to drive it a little in my neighborhood. Then it would only stall upon deceleration which makes me wonder if the PIP sensor got fried after having its wire draped across the plug wires with no shielding.
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Well I fixed the wire shielding and put a new computer in and no change. I've replaced every single sensor, computer and the entire ignition system. Checked all wires, vacuum lines. I guess I'm not capable of fixing this and there is not a single mechanic in my area who knows how to work on an truck this old. Guess I'm done. 1988 F350 Crew Cab DRW for sale. I really got lured into buying this truck because the interior is perfect and it has less than 100K miles on it. I love it so much but it won't run no matter what I do. I'm so disappointed I could cry.
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
Before you give up I would check the wiring under the two relays on the drivers side (the EEC Power and Fuel pump relay).
That is a common problem and also check the Ignition switch on top of the column down near the floor board.
That is a common problem and also check the Ignition switch on top of the column down near the floor board.
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Do you mean the wiring and connector to the actual relays themselves or something else in that area? I wired in new pigtails when I replaced the relays because the connectors clips were broken. I have seemed to notice that the truck stalls a lot when I hook up my scanner to the self test connectors which are in that same area.
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I replaced the connector (which comes with about 8" of wire) to the EEC relay but not the fuel pump relay. It doesn't look bad but is cheap to replace. There is no relay box left in this truck at all. The wiring and relays are just literally laying on top of the wheel well in the engine compartment. It looks like the PO did have some work done to the wiring in this area before he gave up and sold it to me.
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Ok I'm checking the relays and wiring and have a question. When the engine stalls the fuel relay clicks and then I hear the high pressure fuel pump run again just like it does when you are starting it. Is that normal? After engine stalls, voltage is dropping out on the fuel pump terminal on the relay even thought ignition is still on.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Rhode Island
After the engine stalls, the fuel pump should run for about 1 second then turn off. Are you saying the engine stalls, then the fuel pump comes on for a second?
That indicate the EEC is losing power or ground somewhere.
That indicate the EEC is losing power or ground somewhere.
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Would the EEC losing power or ground also explain why I have to turn the ignition completely off before I can restart it? If I try to turn it over without turning it completely off it will not crank. It fires right back up but I have to turn it off first.
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
Sounds like the EEC Power relay is dropping out.
That would mean as noted above you have a bad Ignition switch or your small black wire with a green stripe at the NEG post of the battery is loosing ground at that point.
That would mean as noted above you have a bad Ignition switch or your small black wire with a green stripe at the NEG post of the battery is loosing ground at that point.
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OK! I just noticed that wire on #60 (power/ground) on the EEC connector will spin freely....VERY suspicious it is not making a good connection with the computer pin when connected. How the heck do you fix this? Do I have to get an entirely new EEC connector and redo all 30 wires?
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
That sounds like a bad Ignition switch or its plug.
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
OK! I just noticed that wire on #60 (power/ground) on the EEC connector will spin freely....VERY suspicious it is not making a good connection with the computer pin when connected. How the heck do you fix this? Do I have to get an entirely new EEC connector and redo all 30 wires?
But pin #60 and pin #40 go to the same place at both ends. The other end is the small black wire with a green stripe at the NEG post of the battery for both #40 & #60.
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SubFord we put a new ignition switch in but it was one from AZ. However, today when cranking it felt like you had to go further than normal to start it. hmmmmmmm...I have another new ignition switch and socket on the way and will check the ground for the EEC at the battery.