460 help
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460 help
So I have an engine that I pulled from an early 1990s RV supposedly even seen the owners manual. The valve covers have E9AE on them but I just looked at block and the casting number is D9TE. When I pulled the automatic transmission from the engine I found no counterweight as I assume I should have if it was an externally balanced motor. I think I have a winner of an engine if it is a D9TE but I already have an externally balanced flywheel. I just need to know if I need a flywheel that is externally balanced or a flywheel for a 79 460 not externally balanced. Thanks ahead of time.
Last edited by Subvet21; Mar 18, 2016 at 09:23 PM. Reason: Fixed flywheel portion
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From: mid-MO
It should be externally balanced. Look on the front of the crankshaft, behind the harmonic balancer. It should have a hatchet looking counter weight in there. What are your plans for this motor? Going to a manual tranny I'm guessing? What is it going in?
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Big Dan -
Yes, I removed the harmonic balancer and there is a counter weight. So, I know I have an external balance motor and have all the right parts. I am staying with my manual NP 435 transmission. This is going in a 78 4x4 F250. As far as the motor is concerned, I just wanted a bigger engine and was going to replace the timing chain to a gear driven set. However, while finding TDC I found that I only have 15 psi of compression in the #1 cylinder. I think this may be a problem as the #4 has 45 psi. This is only hand turning the crankshaft but I have the feeling that I may have to rebuild engine. I was just wanting a running 460 which it was and was going to rebuild engine once it was ran into the ground but it may already be there.
Thanks for the help.
Yes, I removed the harmonic balancer and there is a counter weight. So, I know I have an external balance motor and have all the right parts. I am staying with my manual NP 435 transmission. This is going in a 78 4x4 F250. As far as the motor is concerned, I just wanted a bigger engine and was going to replace the timing chain to a gear driven set. However, while finding TDC I found that I only have 15 psi of compression in the #1 cylinder. I think this may be a problem as the #4 has 45 psi. This is only hand turning the crankshaft but I have the feeling that I may have to rebuild engine. I was just wanting a running 460 which it was and was going to rebuild engine once it was ran into the ground but it may already be there.
Thanks for the help.
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Are you using the 80's model bellhousing or planning on using your 351/400 bellhousing? If you have a flywheel from an 80's model truck, it will not work in the 351/400 bellhousing. Ask me how I know. lol. If using the 80's model bellhousing, how you planning on doing the hydraulic slave?
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Also, I'm not sure I would trust compression readings if they are taken by turning the engine over by hand. I was always told they need to be taken dry (no gas going into cylinders) and with a good battery.
If you don't have the funds to do a full rebuild right now, you might throw some fresh rings and bearings in it and see how it performs. The motor being in a motorhome makes me think maybe it had a decent life so far in terms of abuse. A motorhome sees mostly highway driving and I would think not too much stop and go traffic, but that is assuming the PO took care of it and changed the oil, etc.
If you don't have the funds to do a full rebuild right now, you might throw some fresh rings and bearings in it and see how it performs. The motor being in a motorhome makes me think maybe it had a decent life so far in terms of abuse. A motorhome sees mostly highway driving and I would think not too much stop and go traffic, but that is assuming the PO took care of it and changed the oil, etc.
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Big Dan -
Well I was hoping that hand turning the crank wouldn't provide good compression readings.
I was planning on using my 351/400 bell housing with my 87 flywheel. I have yet to put everything together.
Did you have an aluminum or cast iron bell housing? I have heard that may make a difference. Mine is cast iron. I am going to at least try the bell housing as I have everything out of the truck now. Sounds like I need to start searching for an 80s model bell housing though.
I'll definitely check out rings and bearings since I have everything apart now. When I took the oil pan off there was no cuttings or crud in the oil pan or the oil sump. So I take that as a good sign.
I appreciate your help.
Well I was hoping that hand turning the crank wouldn't provide good compression readings.
I was planning on using my 351/400 bell housing with my 87 flywheel. I have yet to put everything together.
Did you have an aluminum or cast iron bell housing? I have heard that may make a difference. Mine is cast iron. I am going to at least try the bell housing as I have everything out of the truck now. Sounds like I need to start searching for an 80s model bell housing though.
I'll definitely check out rings and bearings since I have everything apart now. When I took the oil pan off there was no cuttings or crud in the oil pan or the oil sump. So I take that as a good sign.
I appreciate your help.
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From: mid-MO
Like I said, not sure about the hand cranking, just passing along what I have heard.
I am using the 351 bellhousing with the L and L flywheel and clutch set. Works fine. But before that, I tried the 80's stock flywheel and clutch set and the throw out arm did not have enough room to actuate. Then on here someone said the 80's model bellhousing (aluminum) is about 3/8" longer, so there is more room in there for the arm to move and not bind up. Try it out if you want, but I don't think it will work. Maybe if you can find a low profile clutch. (I tried a diaphram from Sachs from O'Rielly I think it was.)
I am using the 351 bellhousing with the L and L flywheel and clutch set. Works fine. But before that, I tried the 80's stock flywheel and clutch set and the throw out arm did not have enough room to actuate. Then on here someone said the 80's model bellhousing (aluminum) is about 3/8" longer, so there is more room in there for the arm to move and not bind up. Try it out if you want, but I don't think it will work. Maybe if you can find a low profile clutch. (I tried a diaphram from Sachs from O'Rielly I think it was.)
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