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All seemed well for 2 weeks after getting my truck back. However, I suddenly noticed my EOT at 230 on a flat, empty highway run from Raleigh to Durham (25-30 miles). I was like . I thought I had fixed all of this with the $6500 bill from before.
My ECT stayed at a safe 192-196. My EOT would fly up to a max of 242ish, with me taking it easy on the throttle, ofcourse. The EOT would come down 1 degree at a time as I hit a longer deceleration patch.
My natural instinct from reading would be that it was the oil cooler clogging again, maybe from an improper flush.
Then as I was sitting at a traffic light on my way to drop off the truck at the shop, the ECT went up to 200! It went back down as I started driving. I then thought, maybe water pump? And ofcourse the EOT at this time was about 230. (distance from house to shop is about 17 miles. 12 of them highway).
The shop has had it since Monday, and I called them today (2 days later) They said they can't find the issue. The shop is Global Offroad and Diesel in Raleigh, NC. I won't rag on the shop just yet, I have to give them a chance. However, when I got the truck back after the $6500 bill job, they had a broken hose clamp on my T-stat that sprouted a MASSIVE coolant leak while driving. Then they also left the coolant hose line to the bottom of the radiator loose that had a minor leak. ....... but I won't rag on them just yet. Those are mistakes that anyone can make. If they sit here and tell me AGAIN that they're not going to do anything, then I will post on every Raleigh/truck/offroad/jeep forums I can find. I offered to go there and drive it and Jerry (owner) just said "no".
Anyways, what is going on with my truck. I am planning on selling this. I bought it for $18,000. Spent $8000 in 4ish months of ownership. and it still won't operate. This is really frustrating. I understand I had issues with it due to previous owner's work done to it, but still... I don't get how some of you all do it. I watched the darn temps more than I watch the road for the 2 weeks I drove this thing after the large repair.
Please please help, you guys helped me a lot on my previous thread.
FYI there is a whine that follows RPM (not turbo psi), that made me think maybe water pump. But I have a feeling it may be normal operation? I don't know.
Curious what are your temps after a 24 hour cold soak? I realize you don't have the truck right now but would be nice to know
Would rule out a bad EOT sensor, or you could just switch them around and see what you get for readings.
Like Randy said, makes me wonder too if they flushed AFTER the oil cooler.
I have forgotten the details and can't look them up right now but there is a oil cooler bypass valve. I believe it's in the oil cooler housing (or cover?) I seem to remember a couple of folks had to buy the oil cooler housing to get it at first but I believe someone came up with a part number finally. Not expensive or a huge job to replace. That would seem a likely culprit to me. A bad water pump would be raising ECT also, and within a very few miles at highway speed.
Hate to hear you're having so much headache and expense with your truck.
I have forgotten the details and can't look them up right now but there is a oil cooler bypass valve. I believe it's in the oil cooler housing (or cover?) I seem to remember a couple of folks had to buy the oil cooler housing to get it at first but I believe someone came up with a part number finally. Not expensive or a huge job to replace. That would seem a likely culprit to me. A bad water pump would be raising ECT also, and within a very few miles at highway speed.
Hate to hear you're having so much headache and expense with your truck.
Thanks along with texastech above.
This seems like it would come new with the new oil cooler. Would it not? Should I get it back from them and replace it myself? If it is not their problem, I dont want them with my truck anymore.
So just that valve piece can be removed and replaced..?
I'm striking out on that one, can't find just that part. I've read at least 20 threads on others asking about the same thing here and other forums and nobody had any luck either.
I did not get the oil cooler back. I am sooooo sick of this...
Honestly, I am tempted to just sell it to a dealer and lose like 5k in value and then $8k in parts. But goodness...that is just crazy. But what the hell? This truck is killing me mentally. And having this shop with a crap attitude does not help.
Do you all think if I get the Bullet Proof Diesel air-to-oil oil cooler it will fix everything...? Any steps you guys think I should take before I jump to such a drastic step? I want this fixed. I don't want to sell it, I would lose to much, but I need this fixed, if for nothing other than my peace of mind.
Only way to tell if the oil cooler is plugged is by the temperature spread and why asking "how they know it's good" came up.
BPD external oil cooler will fix it and so will a new OEM oil cooler, about $1700 difference not counting labor. But with those temps, something isn't right and you may have to hunt it with parts.
Replace the bypass, you may need to go back for the cooler... if you do the cooler and bypass, that should do it, so would the BPD model and honestly, we're guessing, why we asked how they know it's not that.
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