The pictures of your fuel filters made me cringe. I really hope you get this problem taken care of, and not at your expense.

 

Above is a reverse picture of what might be the problem. The above tank is very clean on the top and slanting downhill and to the right. Notice the puddle of water collected on the recession right behind the vent valve. Notice the dirt in the water also. Had the truck been parked with the front up, then the area where the vent sits would have filled with water. I can't seem to pull the cap off the short pipe. I guess it snaps on and acts as a vent but it really doesn't matter because the bottom portion....where it fits against the tank housing is loose. The part can be easily swiveled around and lifted up and down a bit....so any water, muddy water, etc. could easily be sucked into the tank when the tank cooled. I'm thinking that is what we are seeing on the pictures of the 37 day old, stopped up filters I posted earlier.....not, delaminated stuff although there might be a bit of that in there as well. The water you see is from a very light, short rain. M1911

 

My truck and engine for the most part look very good. Very clean and very little rust. I do have an oil leak though and will try to get to the source of this. The camera was shoved under the truck in a variety of positions with pictures being snapped. I noticed a 2" spot of oil on the drive after letting the engine idle for 15 min. I wonder where this is coming from. Left header, rear of engine... This truck typically, with all the problems it has had, did not leak oil. This is new. M1911

 

After washing the oil off, running the engine about 10 or 15 min, this is where the oil is coming from. #8 exhaust manifold is spitting and sputtering, so the exhaust gasket is leaking a bit.....I would assume the head gasket is leaking just a bit above it. There apparently isn't a steady stream of oil....but there should be none. I couldn't find any other places where oil was escaping top of engine or at any other point. I'm not sure how any oil is getting to the exhaust header except from leaking from the head gasket. Any other ideas? M1911

 

Glow plug connector or valve cover. I believe GP connector may be more prevalent.

 

Could be....hope it is something simple...Might just need tightening. The exhaust puffs out a bubble every once and awhile from the bit of oil that is there. So, it must be leaking a bit also. It might just need tightening too. I like a man that thinks positive......so many problems with it....I can't seem too anymore.

I was watching the FICUM while the engine was idling. Man, that thing was jumping up and down 60 times per second or more. Those solder joints need to be solid. M1911

 

I'm surprised that the vent assembly (vapor valve) is that loose, but I've not played with one on the metal tanks. I'm guessing that's the white object from your in-tank photo of the new coating, so they must have removed it during the re-coat. For one I wonder if it's fully seated or if an interior retaining ring is missing. The relocating Ford part number shows a list of close to $100, but can be discounted to around $50. I'd let the dealer sort out both the fitment and the hose if you haven't dealt with it already.

 

I wouldn't be surprised if that was the vent from tank #1 and #2 and then #3, etc. I see no reason why the base should not be siliconed in place unless Ford sees fit to install a new assembly as part of the TSB....who am I trying to kid????? Unless I purchase the assembly or make one and install it myself and then seal it around the base. M1911

 

The tank should come from the supplier with the sending unit assembly installed and the vapor valve too. Not matter to the truck assembly plant or distribution center they want the tank sealed. Fuel nibs would have plastic caps on them.

Wet silicone would not be used, it would be a dry assembly. If I get a chance to walk I might visit a dealership on Sunday if one has a chassis cab on the lot to see how they should seal.

 

Refering to post #31,how can particals that large get pasted primary under drivers feet and wind up on engine bay filter? I thought primary filter stopped all but almost invisiable size particals which is secoundary's job.

 

da-bees, it is my understanding....only from the research I am doing on line that the filters work up to a certain point. Then they let junk by-pass....again, only up to a point. Then they almost stop up. The pictures I posted earlier are new Ford filters, the correct ones for the truck and they are 37 days old from when I purchased them to the day the truck broke down on the side of the road again. Realize that this junk goes through your fuel pump also and they don't give those away either.

Personally, I think it would be better for Ford to have installed a screw on filter and glass inspection bowl that when and if stopped up......simply stopped fuel to the engine. That way, everything downstream, everything down stream that is ridiculously expensive would have been protected. But hell, what do I know....I haven't been producing vehicles for over 100 years. I notice the TSB goes back to the same issues my tank is having and applies to trucks 8 years older......you'd think someone at Ford would get their head out of you know where and correct this. New tank, new tank design or get rid of the steel tank and put a polymer one on there like everyone else does. Ford even has plastic tanks.....why did they put this junker on all these trucks and why did they keep putting them on year, after year, after year.????? M1911

 

To clean these things you have to remove the sending unit. Figure out some way to clean the tank, suck the fuel out...whatever. Then you have to crawl under the drivers door, look up at the frame to see the primary filter and fuel pump. Unscrew the cover, remove the filter, remove the drain plug, remove the fuel lines and blow out, remove the fuel pump water separator cover and wash that out along with the filter housing. Then, you go up top, remove the secondary filter cover, filter, clean the bowl and blow out the line. Whether or not you can get the pressure regulator clean in the field is not known, is it damaged is not known, did crap get past the two and into the injectors is not known.....but this is all you can do sitting on the side of the road.... after you either carry a spare $80 set of filters with your or go purchase some. So, there is a lot more rust, delaminated material, dirt, water, whatever than what is just on the filter and did any of it get into the engine......???? Probably which is why I'm on at least my second set of injectors and presently need at least the #7 one replaced. Too bad Ford can't be held over the fire.....feet to the blaze isn't enough.



This is what the primary filter and fuel pump look like for those of you who might not have looked into this. It is mounted on the inside of the frame rail beneath the driver's door.



What is with the empty access point above the starter? Shouldn't this have a cover at least. If so, guess six weeks wasn't long enough for them to replace it. But, from what I'm seeing, Ford probably put it there so it could corrode away and that way they could sell you another for $1,287 and $3,000 labor. M1911

 

Oh yeah, be sure to carry a set of Lisle fuel line disconnectors in the glove box or you can't get the front lines off. The ones to and from the tank snap on and off......not the front ones. Takes a special tool to release them. M1911

 

Ok,that tell's me how that secoundary got in that shape but it shouldn't. My thoughts are same as yours,I have a couple of tractors more than 60 years old with glass sediment bowls that make more sense than how Ford(and others I suppose) set modern trucks up. I can't think of a single reason for (A) "putting same tank on year after year,after year" and (B) not haveing truck shut down saving downstream components when filter plugs,,,,,,,,,,,,,,other than assureing Ford another reliable income stream. IMO,if Ford had researched and took action at the same time people here and other DIY sites did on issues,consumers would have far more brand dedication and money in the bank

 

Yes Sir.....I have a '70 John Deere tractor...sometimes it sits for 4 or 5 months....but always starts in about 2 revolutions of the engine regardless of temp or age of fuel. I have two Bobcats...same...old ones '95 and 2001. Kubota tractor, sits at the farm for three months or more......fires right up...no special care needed. Did I mention our old '95 dodge 3,500 with 350K miles on it.....never been in the shop, running today doing the work the Ford should at least be helping with.

Ford Dearborn service sent me notice that at this time I would be best served to continue with my Dealership...... so I called them up an hour or so ago and asked the parts guy there if he could check the oil filter part number for my new 2.7l F150 engine. That I couldn't find it in my owner's manual. He more or less told me to go ...........you know what to myself and wouldn't tell me anything. Have you ever tried to look in the 550 page booklet that comes with your truck for what fuel filter to use on the truck. Here is a hint...don't look under anything related to oil, service, oil filter, filters, engine, lubrication, maintenance.............It is listed in one little section called Motorcraft Parts. Now why didn't I think of that. Of course the index is twelve pages of tiny print.

That is what purchasing over $100,000 worth of vehicles from Long Lewis Ford in Birmingham, Al will get you. I told the woman in Dearborn that if that was the case....looked like I was screwed. Ain't that Corporate America....2016 M1911