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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 03:59 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by diesel_dan
Call them 1st and ask if they have any flexible metal roof mount, self stick, style; and also if they have any for marine applications that can be lashed down (this place will be expensive, but you will learn alot and maybe touch some things).

I'll take a couple pictures of mine, as long as you promise not to laugh (it is just tied on to my old toyota right now with: literally baling twine, bungee cord and a tie down...).

Look up Marine Solar Panels and put your reading glasses on...
Okay, I will read into that.

I was thinking about the knowledge part as well from the guy at the shop.

I won't laugh. I promise

Scott, why do you think so many people are skeptical of this working?
 
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 04:52 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by silverbullet6oh
Okay, I will read into that.

I was thinking about the knowledge part as well from the guy at the shop.

I won't laugh. I promise

Scott, why do you think so many people are skeptical of this working?
Well, it isn't that there aren't some very electriclly savvy folks reading... It probably stems from seeing the puny 2 watt and 5 watt chargers and only having played with them (and how they often aren't up to a recovery mode). If you haven't jumped in the pool you have no idea how deep or cold the water is... No offense intended to our electrically savvy friends (and you know who you are ).

I'll post picts in a minute, got to see which ones look the least worst

My gate panel is a monocrystalline one, btw... it is 24V and charges 2 group 31 batteries in series run off a Seca PWM controller. The panel is quite small (advantage of mono is high yield for footprint) and the system has been in place for going on 8 years. The gate weighs 600lbs, so it does chew some power to open/close it...
 
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 05:25 PM
  #33  
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Please don't laugh... This is my Dad's old Toyota, could use a little TLC. I'm working on a slicker way to move my portable panel around, as in easy and quick and versatile mounting system, so try to ignore the baling twine











 
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 11:40 PM
  #34  
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I like the canvas look it has on the perimeter of the solar panel.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 12:15 AM
  #35  
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You could lay the Canvas across your tool box and fasten down , I like the idea aswell , seen one a family had last year at my daughters swim meet, they ran cell phones , radio, and a mister off of it the panel was only a foot big , I'll have to get the maker of the unit for Y'all .
 
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 07:50 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Misky6.0
My 6L has sat for a couple of weeks and not had any real voltage drop..
Maybe you have an aftermarket alarm/radio that is using batt power in standby mode.. all the time.

Could you have a bad cell in 1 or both batteries...

Solar is best-case going to only give you 12hrs a day of charging. so depending on the output of the solar you might reduce the drop but can't imagine you can keep 2 auto-batteries fully charged using an inexpensive solar solution.

What about hooking up some manual "battery disconnects" under the hood to completely isolate your batteries, you'll have to use a key to open the door, to pop the hood, to re-connect the batteries though. But it should pretty quickly help you decide if the problem is your batteries, if after sitting 3 days your disconnected batteries show the same voltage drop...
This.

You don't need solar panels, battery tenders, etc for a vehicle that sits for a few days or a week.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 01:22 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by silverbullet6oh
I like the canvas look it has on the perimeter of the solar panel.
It is a really stout vinyl on back, SS grommets, and the panel side has a trick semi-mat "plastic" protective coating (it's: ETFE - Ethylene tetrafluoroethylene), for what it is worth. I'm keeping an eye out for one to crop up for you
 
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 01:27 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by diesel_dan
It is a really stout vinyl on back, SS grommets, and the panel side has a trick semi-mat "plastic" protective coating (it's: ETFE - Ethylene tetrafluoroethylene), for what it is worth. I'm keeping an eye out for one to crop up for you
Scott, I really appreciate your time and help with this.

Originally Posted by MisterCMK
This.

You don't need solar panels, battery tenders, etc for a vehicle that sits for a few days or a week.
This is true. Like I have stated before, I am sure I am being extra paranoid. BUT...... It cant hurt to have a solar panel on board to keep the batteries optimal. Especially with our trucks.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 02:02 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by diesel_dan



While your vehicle is parked.... What if you hung the solar panel from the sun visor mounts and than put a sunshade up to hold the solar panel against the windshield - facing into the sun...

This is the type of sunshield with a stiff cardboard insert.. Name:  covercraft_car_sun_shade_aa.gif
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Old Mar 18, 2016 | 01:26 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Misky6.0
While your vehicle is parked.... What if you hung the solar panel from the sun visor mounts and than put a sunshade up to hold the solar panel against the windshield - facing into the sun...

This is the type of sunshield with a stiff cardboard insert.. Attachment 140913
Preston started this new thread, which is somewhat unfortunate because all of the info on what I had set up was in the old thread -- putting the same panel in the window of our Expy and plugged into the 12V power port; all inside and held up by a flimsy sun protector still made bu-cu power and brought the starting batt up a full volt on a 5 hour exposure on a cloudy day...

And then there is her horse trailer, which also has a deep cycle batt and is 2 extension cords aways from power most of the time where it gets parked...

Need I go on?! It is all about who has to maintain chit and who just complains when it doesn't start/work/whatever...

Such is life...
 
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Old Mar 18, 2016 | 06:24 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by silverbullet6oh
Scott, I really appreciate your time and help with this. This is true. Like I have stated before, I am sure I am being extra paranoid. BUT...... It cant hurt to have a solar panel on board to keep the batteries optimal. Especially with our trucks.
The more you over engineer the plumbing, the easier it is to stop up the drain. My truck sits for weeks at a time in the sumer and cranks up and starts just fine whenever I want to use it.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2016 | 09:12 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by diesel_dan
Preston started this new thread, which is somewhat unfortunate because all of the info on what I had set up was in the old thread -- putting the same panel in the window of our Expy and plugged into the 12V power port; all inside and held up by a flimsy sun protector still made bu-cu power and brought the starting batt up a full volt on a 5 hour exposure on a cloudy day...

And then there is her horse trailer, which also has a deep cycle batt and is 2 extension cords aways from power most of the time where it gets parked...

Need I go on?! It is all about who has to maintain chit and who just complains when it doesn't start/work/whatever...

Such is life...
Which old thread? Can you link it? I would like to read through it.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2016 | 01:03 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by silverbullet6oh
Which old thread? Can you link it? I would like to read through it.
And you say you are only in your early 30's?!

Here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16095462

Here is something I found. Need to dig deeper into how they are built:

Flexcell Sunslick 14WATTS Flexible Solar Panel for Marine Yachting | eBay

They also build one in a 27 watt size that is a tad over 2' wide...
 
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Old Mar 18, 2016 | 03:08 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by diesel_dan
And you say you are only in your early 30's?!

Here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16095462

Oh geez, I was thinking that you had an entirely different thread. I wasn't even thinking about the one I had started before . LOL
 
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Old Mar 18, 2016 | 04:27 PM
  #45  
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Yeah, well at least at 59.99999 years old I remembered!

So what about the panel? They are made in Switzerland, I can't find anyone that sells the 27 watt but you could use 2 - 14s, though likely one would do it. I found the best price on one for $40 plus $10 shipping on Amazon, you might be able to get them to ship two for that price. And the eBay seller has a "make offer" on his listing, so you could try that route too. You should be able to get a couple for $90 to your door.

I did a little research on the same controller I use: a Morningstar SG-4 and it can be permanently hooked to a battery set that also has other charging inputs, without harming the SG-4. Shop around and you can get one in the $25-$30 range to your door.

So we get you 28 watts which will be more than sufficient for $90 and say it's $30 for the controller (tho I did get mine for less and you can too), and we are at $120 with money left in your budget for wire and connectors

oops I went back and saw your target was $120. Well let's just go for the normal project over-run of 10% and use the $12 for wire and connectors...?

Here's to your solution:

Now I don't have to come install it for you, do I?!
 
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