I have a 06 F250 6.0 My battery light has been coming on. Doesn't stay on but I'm planning a trip back east and don't want any issues to occur. I was thinking maybe the batteries. So I stopped at the local Oreilly's Auto store and had them tested. Told the guy what it was doing and he said it sounded like the alternator. He tested it and said it was going bad. He also tested the batteries and said they were good. So I went looking for a replacement alternator and they have different amp sizes. So I'm not sure on what size the original one is and if the replacement should be a bigger size amp wise.
Any help is appreciated!!

 

ive had good luck with mine


DC POWER ALTERNATORS
https://www.dcpowerinc.com/vaf/produ...70&engine=1015


185 amp min


theres other brands

 

How old are the batteries? Do you have an Android phone for the Torque Engine App to monitor your truck? Would you have a meter around to check voltage? Judging by our local Orielly's..... I wouldn't give them much credit, even a belt could be slipping.

 

IF you're confident in the diagnosis, tell them it's an '05 with dual alternators and you want the top one (140amp). The new one is worth the extra money over rebuilt in my opinion, you may have to swap out a couple rebuilds to get a good one, new has a better batting average. The 140 is a drop in fit, the bolts will look a little long but they will tighten up with no problems, no adapters on mounts or the electrical plug, and it was the most powerful and dependable factory unit available on the 6.0 powered trucks. Sometimes you'll get a unit with a smaller pully that will help spin it faster at idle. The factory belt tensioner will make up the difference with no issues if it's in good working order.

If it's an option for you, go to the Advanced Auto Parts website and order online then select "pick up at store". Check out with discount code TRT30 and get 30% off the price. You can usuially drive immediately to the store and pick it up.

I wouldn't wait too long to fix this. The Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM) on the driver side valve cover has an amplifier the takes 12v and turns it into 48v. It will burn itself up pretty quickly making 48v out of 10 or 11v and the repair is more expensive than the alternator.

 

Step one: Get a live data! Doesn't seem like you have one.

Step two: Take the alternator OFF and take it in to get it bench tested. I don't know how they could.have properly tested the alternator without bench testing on their machine in the back.

If you are still stuck on getting a alternator without doing the first two steps, then I would go with the DC Power 185 AMP again. Alot of money for me to spend. But I know I have a quality part now.

 

The Neece - Leville 230amp alt is under $300 and is internally cooled. Better internals than most and should last a long time.

 

Your original should be 110a.

The only reason for the dash light to come on is if the alternator is not generating a high enough voltage differential to the batteries. So the light only warns of the alternator.

A 140a unit is a good size especially if you install the smaller pulley to get it to rev a little higher. If you have amplifiers, snow plow, some other higher current device, or drive short distances then the upgrade to the Leece-Neville 230a should be considered.

 

I'd do it before the FICM goes as well - just sorted that with mine. FICM, 180A alternator, cables from Ed, plus new batteries. Goes like a train now. I have the XL, no extras, so 180A charges the batteries really quickly.

 

This is the place with the best price on a L/N 230 amp alt. New PTS ALTERNATOR1999 2008 Ford Super Duty E F Series LCF 230A 7341 A160202 | eBay


I have one its great!
And yes after Ed put that little bit of doubt in my mind I pulled my alt B-4 re-installing Ed's FICM, my alt it tested good so I have a spare......

 

O K I think this one is the best price.....230A Alternator 2007 2010 Ford LCF 450 LCF 550 6E7Z 10346 C A160202 AVI160T2002 | eBay

 

It has a lower price but it does not include the longer bolts. The harness is not needed.

 

Thanks for all the info. Even though to me it's over whelming. I found a place in town that specializes on auto electronics So I will take it there and see what they say. Can't remember how long ago I put the batteries in, But I'm thinking they are getting close to being replaced. This really bums me out I just soaked 5k into this truck on a egr delete, new exhaust system, new turbo, tuner and cold air intake. It only has 125k on it So it's still cheaper to keep her...Will find out on Monday. I would take it to the dealer but they have proven that they are only there to make money. Took it in for an oil change picked it up and they tried to tell me my transmission lines were leaking and the Lower lumbar support gasket was leaking. Brought it home and all it was, was oil they spilled all over it. I had told them before I left the dealership that this truck has never leaked anything since I bought it new. I may be an old lady but I'm surely not stupid. I fix whatever goes wrong asap and with new parts. Plus they lost a customer with 2 diesels. Thanks again !!!