When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
ISO fuel pump for 1990 7.3 idi. Any ideas where to look. Junkyard, parts stores, Google, and Ford itself has been able to find the specific pump.
welcome to FTE.
rock auto has them starting at $11.28 up to $25.79
at my napa store it is an in stock at the warehouse item order in the morning and it will be at the store in the afternoon or next morning.
napa part # AFP 60278 $25.20
delphi part # DFP MF0050 $36.38
I am parting out a 1991 f350 7.3 idi, with no bed contact me via PM if you need any parts
I am looking for a fuel pump. The arm slopes down then turns up at a 90° then turns back out at a 90°. Do you happen to have that? Also I have a wrecker package I am trying to sell that I just took off the truck if you're interested.
rock auto has them starting at $11.28 up to $25.79
at my napa store it is an in stock at the warehouse item order in the morning and it will be at the store in the afternoon or next morning.
napa part # AFP 60278 $25.20
delphi part # DFP MF0050 $36.38
the arm design was changed around 15 years ago. either one will work, as long as it is a diesel lift pump for the 6.9 or 7.3 engine.
gas engine pumps will not work.
Thank God someone can finally give me an answer on that. I figured that's what it was but wasn't sure. With the new design is low cam still necessary or can I just roll with it?
the end of the arm where it meets the cam eccentric is in the same place on both arms.
so it does not matter. they look like they are different, but the engine does not see the difference.
I'm not sure how to send a PM here or I would use that instead, but
So that means yes, I do have to have it at low cam. How do I ensure that? I can see in the case but not certain the difference as I bump the engine around.
you can not do pm's until you have i believe it is 10 posts and 10 days registered user.
you do not have to do anything special to the engine to put the lift pump in.
just make sure the arm goes under the eccentric.
what i do is tip the arm down a little when stuffing it in the block until the pump body is at the block. then bring pump flush to the block and bolt it in.
if the cam eccentric is in the down position, you will feel it as you level the pump and it force the arm down.
Well dang. Thanks brother that's a lot of help. I've been working on this thing for three weeks now since it ran dry. It's been one thing after another with this thing. Replaced starter, both batteries, fuel pump relay, fuel filter, air filter, and heater core (since I was doing everything else anyway). All had to be replaced but not necessarily to fix the fuel issue obviously.
another thing to remember is that with these trucks the fuel pickup in the tank likes to crack between the 1/8 and 1/2 tank mark and it will suck air.
when the truck "runs out of fuel" with 3/8 tank showing on the gauge, it will usually fire rite up if 5 gallons is added to the tank.
one way to fix is to drop the tank and add a piece of diesel rated rummer hose with a notch cut into the end where it meets the bottom of the tank.
or you can do what i do, just make sure the fuel gauge never goes below 1/2 tank.
Yea the rear tank cuts out at 3/8 on the gauge and the front gauge dont work. I have a wrecker set up (i'm selling by the way) so pulling the bed to do anything with the tanks has been less than appealing. I have now pulled it off so I'm going to either clean the tanks really well or replace them all together and replace all the hardware. Just haven't gotten that far yet.
i pull the bed to get to tanks, i learned a long time ago at the body shop dropping them is way harder then pulling the bed.
Well had to bump the engine over once, pump seated down, checked all the work, took three turns and it fired right up. Runs like a chsmp again. Appreciate the help.