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Loose Battery Connection (Resolved)

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Old Mar 6, 2016 | 08:45 PM
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Loose Battery Connection (Resolved)

I was in the middle of making dinner and my husband was kindly pulling the Ex into the garage for me. I drove it around town today. He came in and uttered words no one ever wants to hear...







"get on the forum."

My heart sank as I managed to yell out "what happened??!!"

He said he pulled it in and turned it off. Then went back to turn it on to pull it in a little farther. When he tried to restart it there was a big "CLICK" and it went all dead.
Edit to add: he said the theft light briefly flashed after everything else went dead.
Also, aux power such as cig lighters still work.

Please tell me this is a simple fix....PLEASE!!
Could it be a fuse?

Zoë
 
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Old Mar 6, 2016 | 08:49 PM
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Not a lot of info to go on. Where did the sounds come from? Does it do it every time or just that once and now nothing happens? Do all the other electronics turn on like normal? I am sure a video of the situation will help a lot.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2016 | 08:52 PM
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This sounds like a cleaning and wiggle of the battery connections might solve it. Hopefully...
 
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Old Mar 6, 2016 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Twitchyleprechaun
Not a lot of info to go on. Where did the sounds come from? Does it do it every time or just that once and now nothing happens? Do all the other electronics turn on like normal? I am sure a video of the situation will help a lot.
He said click seemed like it came from ignition. Just happened that once. Now nothing will turn on. Nothing to video.

 
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Old Mar 6, 2016 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 05MilMachine
This sounds like a cleaning and wiggle of the battery connections might solve it. Hopefully...
I edited to add that seems like we still have battery. Cigarette lighter still seems to work when I plug in a phone charger.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2016 | 09:08 PM
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Yeah, battery connections is where you should start, clean them and make sure they are tight.I would then look for blown fuses, and check the power connection to the main fuse box. The previous owner of my old 2000 did some bad electronic work and had the bolt loose on the power stud on the fuse box.... Damn thing killed power to everything....took me forever to find that problem. Other than that, I wouldn't have the slightest idea.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2016 | 09:08 PM
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Low current devices will still work with a bad connection. The High current draw from a starter will kill it though. Go remove, clean and reseat the battery connections. It is always the first step in a "click, no crank" condition. :-)
 
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Old Mar 6, 2016 | 09:25 PM
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CM, check the voltage of your battery and their connections. If you have good voltage, turn the key, push on the brake, and move the trans selector out of and then back into park and see if it will start.

When you say it's dead, do you mean nothing electrical works? No dash lights, no warning lights, no headlights?

Stewart
 
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Old Mar 6, 2016 | 09:34 PM
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I'll have him check the battery. Just seems very odd that would be the issue as I drove it all day today without the slightest hint of an issue. Will check just to rule it out.

Correct, nothing electrical works. No lights, etc.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2016 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Country_Mouse
I was in the middle of making dinner and my husband was kindly pulling the Ex into the garage for me. I drove it around town today. He came in and uttered words no one ever wants to hear...







"get on the forum."

My heart sank as I managed to yell out "what happened??!!"

He said he pulled it in and turned it off. Then went back to turn it on to pull it in a little farther. When he tried to restart it there was a big "CLICK" and it went all dead.
Edit to add: he said the theft light briefly flashed after everything else went dead.
Also, aux power such as cig lighters still work.

Please tell me this is a simple fix....PLEASE!!
Could it be a fuse?

Zoë
The piece of information highlighted in bold red seems to me the most relevant to the cause of your issue, which appears to be a PATS issue by the sounds of things. In plain English, your truck appears to not recognize your key for whatever reason, and therefore the PCM refuses to supply the ground side of the starter relay to complete the start circuit.

The only way to diagnose, by the sounds of things is to have a dealer scan tool (IDS), or any aftermarket scan tool (of which I'm unaware of any) capable of communicating with PATS to check for codes for starters.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2016 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by m-chan68
The piece of information highlighted in bold red seems to me the most relevant to the cause of your issue, which appears to be a PATS issue by the sounds of things. In plain English, your truck appears to not recognize your key for whatever reason, and therefore the PCM refuses to supply the ground side of the starter relay to complete the start circuit.

The only way to diagnose, by the sounds of things is to have a dealer scan tool (IDS), or any aftermarket scan tool (of which I'm unaware of any) capable of communicating with PATS to check for codes for starters.
Thanks. That was the first logical thing that popped in my brain actually but what do I know. Can these be purchased or are we talking towing to the dealer?
 
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Old Mar 6, 2016 | 09:43 PM
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Put it in neutral and try to start it...Could be the shift linkage is loose under the dash.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2016 | 09:44 PM
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my theft light flashes after start up all the time.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2016 | 09:51 PM
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Get one of these battery brushes and clean the terminals and posts like mentioned here before. They can be had at most autoparts stores and more.

Do you have a digital multi-meter?

 
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Old Mar 6, 2016 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Country_Mouse
Thanks. That was the first logical thing that popped in my brain actually but what do I know. Can these be purchased or are we talking towing to the dealer?
As long as we're on the same page with all the information provided, as in all lights and accessories function normally and your battery has a full 12 volts, then yes it sounds like a two to your local dealer. Perhaps your PATS transceiver (the ring around the ignition cylinder that "recognizes" the ignition key) is no longer working if I had to guess, but that's only a guess by the information provided.
 
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