Loose Battery Connection (Resolved)
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,176
Likes: 4
From: Indiana
If the PATS was holding it out, the theft light wouldn't briefly flash- it'd stay on as long as the key is on and there is battery voltage. It sounds to me like the system isn't getting voltage, and with the key in run, the light burns until it depletes the capacitors inside the ECM.
I'd start with making sure the battery terminals are clean and tight, followed by the solenoid terminals, starter terminals, and grounds (one bad ground in the engine compartment can do some funky stuff).
If that doesn't cure the problem, my next step would be a series of voltage-drop tests on the battery cables and starter cables. Voltage drop testing these cables is better than continuity testing because a cable with every strand broken except one is still going to have continuity.
Oh, and verify that you have voltage at the battery. If the battery gave up the ghost while you were out and about, you could have rode home on just alternator power.
I'd start with making sure the battery terminals are clean and tight, followed by the solenoid terminals, starter terminals, and grounds (one bad ground in the engine compartment can do some funky stuff).
If that doesn't cure the problem, my next step would be a series of voltage-drop tests on the battery cables and starter cables. Voltage drop testing these cables is better than continuity testing because a cable with every strand broken except one is still going to have continuity.
Oh, and verify that you have voltage at the battery. If the battery gave up the ghost while you were out and about, you could have rode home on just alternator power.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,176
Likes: 4
From: Indiana
More on the PATS possibility- what happens if you turn on your headlights? If the headlights DON'T come on, you can likely rule out PATS and focus solely on a power supply problem.
If PATS were holding it out, you'd still have use of all interior and exterior lights, and I'm pretty sure a gauge check would still take place. What SHOULDN'T happen in a PATS hold-out is the sound of the solenoid clicking.
If PATS were holding it out, you'd still have use of all interior and exterior lights, and I'm pretty sure a gauge check would still take place. What SHOULDN'T happen in a PATS hold-out is the sound of the solenoid clicking.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 949
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
Okay, so it is the battery. When you jiggle grounding wire connected to the negative terminal we have power. When trying to start it sparks but doesn't start although we got it to start once.
P.S. My husband says my obsession with Ex is not normal. Said I couldn't sleep if he didn't investigate tonight.
Have video, can that be posted somehow?
P.S. My husband says my obsession with Ex is not normal. Said I couldn't sleep if he didn't investigate tonight.
Have video, can that be posted somehow?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,008
Likes: 5
The piece of information highlighted in bold red seems to me the most relevant to the cause of your issue, which appears to be a PATS issue by the sounds of things. In plain English, your truck appears to not recognize your key for whatever reason, and therefore the PCM refuses to supply the ground side of the starter relay to complete the start circuit.
The only way to diagnose, by the sounds of things is to have a dealer scan tool (IDS), or any aftermarket scan tool (of which I'm unaware of any) capable of communicating with PATS to check for codes for starters.
The only way to diagnose, by the sounds of things is to have a dealer scan tool (IDS), or any aftermarket scan tool (of which I'm unaware of any) capable of communicating with PATS to check for codes for starters.
I have PATS keys for my truck and a Non-PATS blank. When I try and use a Non-PATS key, the engine will crank. The gauges all come in. But the "Theft" light blinks fast.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 949
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
He cleaned up connections and all seems to be well.
Sorry for freaking out.
Guess I expected them to of been cleaned and tightened when they serviced it and replaced battery before we bought it. Going to replace one of the connectors.
Sorry for freaking out.
Guess I expected them to of been cleaned and tightened when they serviced it and replaced battery before we bought it. Going to replace one of the connectors.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 7,460
Likes: 85
From: Kent Station, WA
Did you see the battery brush I posted? Get one. Also clean the ground wires on the chassis. Those universal clamps are horrible. You do not want something like that stranding you on a trip. At least you got it sorted though.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 4
From: North Texas
Glad it was the simple fix. I would plan on replacing that cable assembly. I wouldn't get one of the splice in deals either, go all out and replace the entire cable. In the mean time, just remember that symptom, its quick fix, and know that it applies to almost every car made.
Now I can sleep tonight.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 949
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,790
Likes: 24
From: Mount Royal, NJ
Same thing happened to me the other day!!
Got out, removed the terminals, cleaned them and NADA! Nothing.
Then I went and cleaned the grounds. They were pretty bad.
Then everything started just perfect.
Got out, removed the terminals, cleaned them and NADA! Nothing.
Then I went and cleaned the grounds. They were pretty bad.
Then everything started just perfect.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 7,460
Likes: 85
From: Kent Station, WA
My terminals were dirty back in October and the local dealer tried to sell me a alternator. 
Cleaned the terminals, charged the battery on the tender and had two stores test both and both passed.
Cleaned the terminals, charged the battery on the tender and had two stores test both and both passed.