You may as well go with a stroker, either a 331 or 347. But I would have any of them balanced by a reputable machinist regardless of what Summit advertises about that. The 331 I have in my 77 Comet was built around an 88 roller block 13 years ago now. Aside from changing head gaskets last year, it's showing no signs of giving up the ghost. When drilling the holes for the lifter valley spyder bolts, remove the cam bearings under them or have new bearings installed afterwards. I have doubts about the computer handling the extra cubes after doing a GT40 head swap on my 96 E150 van's 351 (mass air) In addition to the heads, I went with a set of Cobra roller rockers as well (1.7 ratio) The computer seemed to not adjust for the extra air flow there, it had stumbles on acceleration until I gutted the high flow cat I installed at the time of the head swap. The fuel mileage decreased about a mile per gallon after gutting the cat, but the acceleration improved, telling me it was running a tad lean before with the head swap. In reference to Mudsports post above mentioning that the stroker kits fit an 81-93 block, I would NEVER attempt to use the 81-85 blocks for a stroker, there's just not enough "meat" in those blocks to support a stroker, these were the real "lightweights" among 302 blocks when it comes to iron content.

 

It's hard to argue against the stroker assembly based on the cost of parts alone, but it's unlikely it'll run well without tuning given the topend the motor now has so you're looking at even more expense to make it work. I don't remember what year the original motor was.. did you mention that somewhere back there? If it was an '89 the block should be roller ready with the raised bosses in the lifter valley, you'll know soon enough once you get the lower intake off. You will probably never know what part let go first in the bottom end but I think Baddad is right and it was probably stressed within an inch of it's life by the PO, I guess for anybody that reads this in the future this can stand as a warning to use new rods in any HO motor rebuild.

 

Good news is its an 89' block, new cam bearings are a foregone conclusion. As this is for my daily driver, and she's already been down too long, I'm most concerned about drivability after the swap. Keep in mind the MAF conversion is already done, and the harness is already wired to the mustang ECU. I'll be ditching the GT40 Explorer intake, 70MM TB, and going back to 19# injectors in hopes that it will be instantly drivable. The kit is from Eagle so I'm gonna talk with them about how they balance/tolerance the assembly, and have the shop check anyhow.

The stroker sound tempting, but right now I need too get on the road and have a reliable, fun build, and with the EFI setup in place now, I dont want to backpedle any more than I have to. I get this one right, 351 stoker down the road....maybe...

Thanks for weighing in!

 

Using the truck intake? If so do you have a Y pipe to connect the dual TB to MAF meter? The GT40 intake is mostly a sideways move from the 5.0 truck intake.. the truck lower is better but the upper probably a little worse, so that won't really make any difference good or bad but the single TB is easier to plumb to a MAF, and by all means use the 19lb injectors if you have a stock MAF meter or one that is "calibrated" for 19's.

 

I don't think t was the rod that cut loose, but the rod bolt(s) based on that pic he posted. It's a little fuzzy, but in it you can see the rod cap with the rod bolt sheared off, there's nothing of the bolt sticking out past the cap in that picture. I think the rest of the damage to the rod happened after the cap came off.

 

Maybe we can get him to do a forensic analysis after the truck is back on the road.. collect all the broken parts, clean them up and take some better pictures.

 

I'll go to the pull-a-part and grab the Y and MAF housing off a truck. As far as the GT40 goes, I can always add it later, and mounting the K&N TB involves messing with throttle cable linkage...I just want her on the road first. With the heads, cam, exhaust, and MAF I'm sure I'll be happy with the power it makes....for now.

Again I want to express my appreciation for all you guys walking me through this build/failure/re-build!

 

But you had it running with the Explorer intake so you must have done something with the throttle cable linkage already?

In any event I don't think you will lose any power with the truck intake, that was the main point I was trying to get across.

 

Once she's running right I'd like to try the explorer out and with the 70MM TB and MAF, for now "stock" setup will suffice!

 

So the orriginal block from the truck has been dissasembled and is in the shop. Without getting picture happy, all the bearings looked amazing (not surprising given how its been driven and maintained), with only real noticeable wear on the top front main, which I will attribute the belt tension. Rod and thrust bearing looked better than the ones I pulled off the low mileage donor, which signifies its abuse by previous owner.

Other than the usual (mag flux, hot tank, cam bearings) I'm having it bored 0.040 over and having the main caps line honed/bored to ensure within spec, and to account for ARP main studs. They will perform the operation with the actual studs I'll be using for accuracy.

On its way is Eagle Specialties rotating assemble complete with clevite or king bearing, whachamacall it pistons, and moly faced rings. Comes balanced with included flywheel and balancer. So I know the bottom end should be good to go, just a matter of me carefully and accurately verifying clearance and tolerances.

While the block is at the shop I've cleaned up the stock TB, upper and lower, and will button up the birds nest of wires under the hood since it should be OK as it ran ok previously all things considered.

Stay tuned!

 

Going stock stroke? And are ya bumping the compression up any?

 

Keeping stroke stock; first build (2nd try) and I just want to build it right and have it last. Would also mean changing the EFI around, and I want to stick to the game plan.


Even after my recent failure destroying my build, I don't think I can stop doing this...plenty of opportunity for a 351 stroker down the road...


Not sure about compression yet, close to stock ratio as the shop took a hair off the heads, and we'll see about the block.

 

Hey Glaser67, the shop finish up with it yet?

 

Not yet...there was a plot twist when the machinist called to tell me the block was already 30 over! I don't know how or why, must have been original owner...So I told him to take it to 40, but I had to exchange my rotating assembly from Eagle accordingly. That 40 over kit is on back order for a few more weeks!

So in the mean time I've loomed and wrapped the injector overlay harness and double checked my pinouts.

Given the pressure of having my project in my brother's garage, and that I'm out of a car right now, I decided to let the shop assemble the bottom end. For $300, I figure its worth the piece of mind to have done right. I just don't have the tools and time right now to do it 100% right. I'll do it on the next one; I'm afraid I wont stop wanting to build an engine for life...

-Glaser67

 

Ahhh sorry to hear about the back order, hope you get them soon enough. Wish I could put some more time and money into my 302 as well but house Renos seem to be the priority, apparently my gf wants a place to sleep lol.

Have a good one Glaser and looking forward to following your build