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I believe straight 30 weight oil (non-synthetic) is the standard for coating the bolt threads. The Ford shop manual probably gives a recommendation.
I imagine 10W-30 oil would be fine as well.
So today I picked up the block and rotating assembly from the shop, and I couldn't be more excited. All the block surfaces look pristine, the pistons are clean as could be, and the crank polish good too.
Fresh new hone!
Clean as could be. There's a little bit of pitting in the center, but I'm not concerned unless I hear otherwise
Ring stays are immaculate!
Crank journals polished to mirror finish!
While I was there I asked the owner about rod bearings, and he told me that Clevite "P" series bearings are what to look for...
All those parts look great, and your photography is excellent.
Those Clevite tri-metal bearings are what used to be generally considered the good ones.
"Used to be generally considered the good ones??" So are you suggesting a better rout?
Last selection I have to make before shortblock assembly are the rings. My god there's too many choices! Through research on this site, I believe moly coated compression rings would be best for my application, and give me long wear life for a mild performance build. I confirmed the HO forged pistons from 92 take 1.5mm metric rings, and I believe 4mm oil ring.
Hell guys, I'm overwhelmed here, am I putting too much thought into this? Can anyone recommend either a particular set or at least what specs you think are best? I'm hoping to get the rotating assembly put in this weekend, and I can just drive to Summit to pick up what I need, just need to know what rings to pull the trigger on!
"Used to be generally considered the good ones??" So are you suggesting a better rout?
I didn't mean that Clevite tri-metal bearings were no longer good, rather that they are a time-honoured quality item. I see that the way I wrote it could imply that they were only formerly good.
This weekend I got my rotating assembly done (almost)...
I took the block fresh from the machine shop and gave it a good wash with soapy water, and scrubbed out all the oil passages, lifter bores, and bolt threads. I quickly dried it off with compressed air as fast as possible. Next I took a lint-free towel and gave all surface a wipe with ATF, then wiped down each cylinder bore with ATF until the rag came out clean, blowing it out again to remove any fibers or dust.
I installed the ARP main studs into the block finder tight, and tightened then down with an hex driver, just barely snugged. I dropped in the main bearings, followed by the crank,then green plastiguage on all main journals. The main caps are torqued to spec with ARP torque grease on the stud tops/washers only, 35 #ft first then to 70, working from the center out. Without rotating the crank, the mains were removed and clearance verified. My main bearing clearance came out to 0.002" right in the middle of spec.
The plasiguage is cleaned off, the crank re-installed as noted above. Don't forget a generous coating of Clevite assembly lube on all bearings!
I then verified end-play clearance of the crank at 0.006" right within spec.
For piston rings, I chose Mahle for 4.00" bore, 1.5mm steel 1st and 2nd rings with top ring face moly coated, and 4mm 3 piece oil ring, which is stock size for 92 H.O. They were non-file fit, but I verified all to be safe. The Haynes spec'd 0.016 gap which matched the manufactures recommnedation of 0.004 per 1" of bore. Now one top ring was gaped at 0.020, which is the maximum allowable limit: is this a problem? Do I go with a bigger ring and file it to get it at 0.016? I pushed on...
The cam was cleaned of oil as it came, then heavily coated with assmbly lube, and slid into place taking care not to scratch or nick the cam bearings. I attached the timing gear to handle that cam past the 3 bearing. It went in a lot easier than I anticipated.
I took my lifters that had been soaking in oil since I cleaned them, and dropped them in with the oil hole face-up; I could not find how they were supposed to go, and all I gathered was that it didn't matter. I figure if the hole is on the top side, more oil would remain in the lifter, but its just a theory. Dog bones were set in place, then the spider tray bolted down with locktight on the screws.
I taped everything off and put on a couple coats of premium engine paint, going with Ford Blue.
Next is the timing gear and heads, which are at the shop.
2 Questions:
1. is the ring gap on 0.020 on a single top ring too much even though its within limits?
2. The timing gear has provisions to change the timing between the crank and cam, should I go with straight up or other? Why?
Thanks all!
-Glaser 67
ARP torque grease for more accurate clamping pressure
Crank shaft end-play is measured at the thrust bearing
Hey Glazer67, just wondering how things were going with the build
Silver54, thanks for following...
I received the rebuilt GT40 heads back from the shop, and when I went to install, I noticed a slight defect in the Trickflow headgasket. Ran over to summit and its on backorder.
I also obsessed over pushrod length vs. preload for a couple weeks. There's a lot of bad information so I ended up calling Comp and Scorpion. Comp confirmed that the base circle on my cam was smaller, which would offset required pushrod length. Gordon at Scorpion clarified that the pedestal rockers are "not adjustable" (not counting use of shims) and that as long as my wear pattern is centered on the valve stem, not to mess with it.
So I picked up an adjustable pushrod, torqued a head and rocker down to spec, and using a dial caliper found that my zero lash length is 6.230" therefor stock length 6.250 would give me 0.020 preload, which when applied comes out to just over a quarter turn.
In an attempt to check my rocker sweep, I pulled apart a roller lifter, and shimmed the inside with washers until the plunger was as close to the retainer clip but without touching to simulate pre-load. With a dry erase marker I colored the valve tip, torqued the rocker on, and turned over twice. After removal this is what I had. Now me overthinking my first build I posted about the pattern and called up Scorpion racing performance and they essentially told me that they are pedestal mounts so don't worry about shims and getting the thinnest sweep pattern: as long as pre-load is within tolorance and the sweep is centered, you're A-OK.
I plan on installing the heads, pushrods, rockers and valve covers this weekend. Pics to come...
Stay tuned!!!
Last edited by Glaser67; May 2, 2016 at 07:07 PM.
Reason: I left out a picture in my prior post
Upon arrival of my trickflow gasket set, I cleaned the block decks with solvent and cleaned off with a shot of air. I placed the head gaskets on and checked for fit. Everything lined up nice, so on went the heads. I upgraded to an ARP head bolt kit. Anyone using ARP kits should know that the beveled side of the washer goes against the bolt head. I used ARP toque grease on the longer top bolt threads and on both sides of the washers, then for the shorter bolts used ARP thread sealant as those bolts penetrate the water jackets, and still used the torque grease at the washers. After finger tight, I followed the torque sequence but did in in 3 steps, 25#, 50# then 70#.
ARP torque grease on longer upper head bolt threads and washers
ARP thread sealant for shorter lower bolts that are exposed to coolant
Next was to drop in the pushrods and bolt on the rockers: you need to torque the rockers on while the lifter is on the back or heal of the cam; you know this when the cylinder's other lifter is at full lift. So I screwed down the rocker bolts to zero lash, then torqued to 25#, which was achieved right in the middle of 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Given I did the rod measurement correctly, and the degree in which I achieved specified torque, I have no doubt my lifter preload is within range (0.020-0.080).
Next I checked the fitment of the head gaskets and noticed an obstruction across the water jacket cutout, which I chose to cut out (I cannot imagine that restricting coolant flow can be beneficial).
This shoulder was doing nothing than slowing down coolant flow so I cut it out
I applied a very thin layer of RTV on the heads where the flat side of the gasket is, placed the lower manifold, then following the torque sequence torqued it down in 3 steps to 20#ft.
VERY thin layer across, a little more around water jackets and note the blob at the corner(s)
The gaskets appear to be quality, but I like the RTV to hold the gaskets in place while I set the manifold.
The valve covers were straight forward, and really added to the performance look I'm going for.
The Pacesetter longtubes are specific for the 4x4 F150. In order to install, you have to identify the bolts that will not readily clear the tubes, and get them threaded first, otherwise you will be backing out all the other bolts or having to remove and start over like I did. An extra set of hands (or two) is a big help. Installed with new ARP bolts with a touch of ani-sieze. Definitely glad to install while on the stand; I think having to do this on my back or from the top could be irritating, but it is possible. I bought plugs from Summit for a Mustange, not the Cobra or Explorer so they didn't fit. Plugs and plug wires to be next.
With my tranny locked up and needing replaced, I'm down my daily driver and will be doing the engine swap sooner than later...stay tuned
After buying the wrong plugs I found the casting number and verified the heads were indeed from 93' Cobra.
So I picked up a set of Motorcraft's from the local autozone. Any plugs off this list should work with GT40's. I chose stock gap, OEM replacements.
AC Rapidfire Spark Plug
Part No. 12
ACDelco Spark Plug
Part No. 41-810
Autolite Spark Plug
Part No. 764
Autolite Spark Plug
Part No. AP104
Autolite Spark Plug
Part No. APP104
Autolite Spark Plug
Part No. XP104
Bosch Spark Plug
Part No. 4041
Bosch Spark Plug
Part No. 7980
Bosch Spark Plug
Part No. 4459
Bosch Spark Plug
Part No. 4304
Bosch Spark Plug
Part No. 4504
Champion Spark Plug
Part No. 13
Champion Spark Plug
Part No. 3013
Champion Spark Plug
Part No. 7940
Champion Spark Plug
Part No. 9404
Denso SPARK PLUG PLATINUM TT
Part No. 4512
E3 Spark Plug
Part No. E3.54
Motorcraft Spark Plug
Part No. SP447
Motorcraft Spark Plug
Part No. SP493
NGK Spark Plug
Part No. 6579
Laser Series Platinum Plug; PTR5F-11; @ Gap .054 @
NGK Spark Plug
Part No. 7164
Iridium IX Series; TR55IX; @ Gap .054 @
NGK Spark Plug
Part No. 3951
V-Power Spark Plug; TR55; @ Gap .054 @
NGK SPARK PLUG LASER IRIDIUM
Part No. 6044
Laser Series Iridium Spark Plug; ITR5F13; @ Gap .054 @
NGK Spark Plug
Part No. 3403
G-Power Single Platinum; TR55GP; @ Gap .054 @
With the plugs in, I installed the wires with boot protectors for good measure so I don't have to deal with burning up boots with my Pacesetters.
Distributor is a motorcraft OEM replacement. No need to spend big $ here. Wire separators add a nice touch.
Boot protectors set me back almost $50k, but well worth it for piece of mind and added appearance.
Also have removed the old 302 and am working on the wiring and cleaning up the engine bay. Having never done this before, the removal went pretty smooth and was anti-climactic.
Everything that was disconnected gets labeled
Replacement M5R2 comes this week, until then lots of cleaning to do!
Does anyone know the bolt head size for the transfer case linkage that connects to the M5R2? I trieed a couple sizes and I believe its 1 1/8"? Nice to know before I bum a ride to the HW store and pick the wrong size.
