Did you make sure those rockers cleared the valve spring retainers before you buttoned it up ? Also did they clear the inside of the valve covers at the oil baffles ?

 

With a lifter packed solid, I turned it over and verified that the roller rockers do not interfere with the spring retainers.


I planned on dressing up the stock mustang valve covers but heard clearance might be an issue, so I picked up the Ford Racing ones you see...they are taller and I used an extra thick valve cover gasket, so clearance should not be an issue; but to answer your question no I didn't physically check with putty like I should have.

 

Well guys, I have some bad news.

I got her installed and fired up nicely, attempted to set the timing, and just as I slowly started to roll down the road she locked up. Will not crank or turn over.

I got a tow from a neighbor back to the garage, pulled the plugs, and still wont turn over. It rotated counter clockwise a few degrees to verify it was absolutely seized, but when I went back the other way it got to the same position and nothing.

Tonight I'm going to start by pulling valve covers to inspect for damage there, then the lower manifold, followed by the heads.

Don'y know where I went so wrong but I suspect bad timing or severe coolant leak. At this point no oil or coolant seemed to got mixed, but I'll find out after I drain the pan.

 

Well that blows.. sorry to hear this after all that great work.

 

That's very bad news. It's a lot of work and expense lost.

 

Happening that sudden, you either dropped a valve or a rod cut loose. This a roller cam, or flat tappet ?

 

H.O. Roller.

I think its a rod.

Removed the valve covers, looked good, removed the lower manifold, all looked good, then removed the heads. All good.

I then rotated the crank in reverse a tad, and heard a big clunk and tumble. Rotated the other way, and that's when I saw the #4 not move.

Tomorrow Ill drain the oil and examine it for bearing/other carnage, unless I need to raise the engine to clear the crossmemeber? I expect to see the rod cap in the bottom. I reused the stock rods/pisiton/crank, but used all new Clevite bearings, ARP main studs, but ONLY NEW ROD NUTS. The studs were press fit and the donor was low milage, so I took a chance, and payed for it. I can at least sleep better know suspecting that this was doomed by a decision to reuse an otherwise good condition part, not an assembly error.

1. I think its obvious that all new rods and pistons are in order, I assume it would be wise to replace the crank while I'm at it?

2. Is it possible that the block could be OK and worth taking back to the machinist for a look or just buy new? I'll post pics when I get it tore down.

Also, I want to put in the 19#'s, the truck intake manifold and a stock MAF housing to get me on the road. Although it ran (briefly) with all the mods, I think my chances of instant drivabiity are greater with bolt on mods (cam, heads, exhaust, MAF) and should run better off the start.

If it is a rod cap, any idea how this could happen? IT never hit 2,000 RPM. Could detonation be the cause, timing, bad luck?

Thanks for following along, you guys helped get me here and I'm down but not out. This beast is going to live goddamnit!!!

 

If the cap just came loose, then the nut(s) weren't torqued.(not a reflection on you, simply an observation, you wouldn't be the first person to overlook something during assembly) Good chance the rod bolt(s) broke, these were the weak link in the 302. The rod's themselves are pretty bullet proof, I've gone through a reman short block and changed the bolts in the assembled short block with ARP's and ran it for two years with freeway blast's to 6000 rpms and another 4 months after a head and intake change revving it to 7500 before it cracked a cylinder wall in the #4. If the rod didn't window the block, then have it cleaned and mag'd before reusing that block to make sure it's not cracked. The pistons should be OK, those wouldn't be affected with a rod failure. The crank may or may not be OK, it'll have to be looked at for damage.

 

Oh, and if that was a true HO roller, then the previous owner likely subjected those rods and bolts to stresses you weren't aware of before buying it. One reason to shy away from HO's, you're better off picking from roller short blocks from pickups, vans or any other application as fodder for a rebuild, just as long as they look to have been properly maintained and not abused (clean in the insides from timely oil changes) The blocks, cranks, rods are all the same, only the pistons and camshaft's were different between the HO and non HO engines. Many cases, all they need is a quicky overhaul (new bearings, oil pump and gaskets to make them serviceable for another 100K miles.

 

The carnage:





Dropped the pan and pulled out the bits. Catastrophic failure. Even worse, cracked the sleeve, and gouged the crank. I need a new short block.

My options are to buy a complete short block or machine the one I pulled out of the truck and convert to H.O. by tapping for lifter spider.

My concern about buying an assembled short block is cost, but also quality and longevity. Any recommended brands for complete short block?

Either way the whole rotating assembly will be replaced with new parts.

What would you guys do?

Thanks,
-Glaser67

 

Dang it man!! That sucks right there

 

Rod bolt broke, the rest is the end result after that occurred. I can see the cap with the sheared off bolt in the background in one pic. Where'r yoyu located ? (can't quite make out the license plate in there.)

 

Well, if you have time and its not a rush you have a few options. Stock replacement, could do a 347 short block so you can use the 302 fi intake with a truck friendly cam and use a 351 5 speed computer, or just get a 351 matching flywheel and fi manifold.

 

Noted. However; the block that I pulled out of the truck was well cared for and never revved by me, and given the "garaged" condition of the truck, I have no reason to believe the previous owner abused it either. I'll know more when I take it apart this weekend. After the $$$ I've sunk (OK, INVESTED) into this project, it would be a bonus to utilize that block. Also, just a looking for a fun daily driver, I don't haul or tow, and I just replaced the M5R2, so a 351 might outmatch the tranny...

Regardless, I ordered the following Eagle rotating assembly from Summit today

Eagle Street and Strip Rotating Assemblies B16002ES030 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

All assembly aside, I feel this balanced setup is money well spent as its balanced with the included 164 tooth flywheel. Only thing is the lesser displacement stroker setup us similar cost...

Would a stroker bottom end jeopardize the longevity of the build? Would the 302 mustang ECU handle the change? Best to just start small with stock rebuild? IDK sounds risky given my engine build track record...

I'll keep the order unless I hear a good case for the stroker upgrade tomorrow...hell I feel the upgrades will already make me happy over the old setup.

Thanks guys

 

I can't remember if you switched to maf or not whole lotta reading to go back through. If you did it should handle a stroker if you are still SD run a 351 c6/5speed computer But, I found on summit an eagle balanced stroker 347 for the same price for an 81-93 block it said so I'm guessing there is a slight difference for the 94 and newers? Being a 347 its 28oz imbalance so the flexplate that comes with it would need changed out for a 28oz imbalance flywheel. And I have read here and on FSB that the M5OD will live behind a 351.

But in the end, you use and needs should define what you do.