Ignition trouble
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New User
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 4
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Ignition trouble
Was wondering if I can get advice. Bought new battery after truck wouldn't start. Still it wouldn't start. Replaced alternator, ignition coil and ignition module. Still won't start. If I jump battery it will start but after I turn it off it won't start. Any help would be appreciated.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Welcome to FTE
When you say "won't start" do you mean the engine turns over OK, at a good cranking speed but the engine won't actually start, or the engine won't turn over or turns over slowly?
The part about it starting after jumping sounds like the latter but it's important that everybody understands what's going on.
When you say "won't start" do you mean the engine turns over OK, at a good cranking speed but the engine won't actually start, or the engine won't turn over or turns over slowly?
The part about it starting after jumping sounds like the latter but it's important that everybody understands what's going on.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 850
Likes: 0
Welcome to FTE
When you say "won't start" do you mean the engine turns over OK, at a good cranking speed but the engine won't actually start, or the engine won't turn over or turns over slowly?
The part about it starting after jumping sounds like the latter but it's important that everybody understands what's going on.
When you say "won't start" do you mean the engine turns over OK, at a good cranking speed but the engine won't actually start, or the engine won't turn over or turns over slowly?
The part about it starting after jumping sounds like the latter but it's important that everybody understands what's going on.
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 531
Likes: 4
From: LaGrange
Go back to basics.
Go over every connection of parts you replaced & check for correct wiring & make sure everything is tightened to spec.
Plus double check all connections for cleanliness & are connected proper.
Should have 3 grounds going from battery to:
Engine block (somewhere under/near alt. usually bolted to cyl.-head or block itself)
Down to frame/chassis (should have a "star" washer under it. -barbed washer-)
Radiator support.
You should also have a ground from back of engine to fire wall.
These grounds are important & without them, it can lead to issues.
You can also add a supplemental ground to the Starter-Solenoid by running a 14-Gauge wire from battery to under the Sol. mounting bolt/screw.
Use ring terminals on the wire for solid contact.
If you are up to it, you can add a Ground to the starter.
Run a 6-Gauge cable from battery to starter.
( Can use the lower mounting bolt of starter if you like, to connect cable.)
Be sure to keep away from moving parts & exhaust.
{Please Do not, zip-tie batt. cables to transmission cooling lines.}
Good luck.
Go over every connection of parts you replaced & check for correct wiring & make sure everything is tightened to spec.
Plus double check all connections for cleanliness & are connected proper.
Should have 3 grounds going from battery to:
Engine block (somewhere under/near alt. usually bolted to cyl.-head or block itself)
Down to frame/chassis (should have a "star" washer under it. -barbed washer-)
Radiator support.
You should also have a ground from back of engine to fire wall.
These grounds are important & without them, it can lead to issues.
You can also add a supplemental ground to the Starter-Solenoid by running a 14-Gauge wire from battery to under the Sol. mounting bolt/screw.
Use ring terminals on the wire for solid contact.
If you are up to it, you can add a Ground to the starter.
Run a 6-Gauge cable from battery to starter.
( Can use the lower mounting bolt of starter if you like, to connect cable.)
Be sure to keep away from moving parts & exhaust.
{Please Do not, zip-tie batt. cables to transmission cooling lines.}
Good luck.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 850
Likes: 0
I'm going to go with the batter cable isn't grounded properly. Disconnect the ground cable from battery and then check the other end and see where it's grounded to, sometimes to the block, sometimes frame. Make sure that connection isn't loose. Get a wire brush and give grounding point a good brush as well as the end of the ground cable and make sure they are tightened down good and have good contact.
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New User
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Abbotsford
Clean the battery terminals on the cables, they need to be bright clean metal. If you don't have a proper terminal cleaner (wire brush ones suck) scrape it to bare metal with a knife.
I have to assume you are putting the jumper cables right on the battery terminals.
I have to assume you are putting the jumper cables right on the battery terminals.
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New User
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
I am also having a ignition issue,
My alt went out so i replaced it, after said action I stopped getting spark, so i replaced my ignition module, now I'm getting fuel she cranks and has a spark but no fire. PLEASE HELP SHES MY DAILY DRIVER
My alt went out so i replaced it, after said action I stopped getting spark, so i replaced my ignition module, now I'm getting fuel she cranks and has a spark but no fire. PLEASE HELP SHES MY DAILY DRIVER
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 531
Likes: 4
From: LaGrange
The big 3 for fire..
Fuel.
Air.
Spark.
Don't have any one of the three, you will not have fire.
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 531
Likes: 4
From: LaGrange
Ok, need the info.
engine,
trans.
What carb. (Motorcraft, Carter, or Holly.)
What exactly have you done?
What exactly is it doing?
What did you do to check for spark, & fuel?
_
engine,
trans.
What carb. (Motorcraft, Carter, or Holly.)
What exactly have you done?
What exactly is it doing?
What did you do to check for spark, & fuel?
_
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
^^^ All good stuff.
37 years is a LONG time when talking about heavy current carrying cables and connections. Road salt, atmospheric pollution, grease and oil plus corrosion builds up until the circuit fails altogether. Remember the auto manufacturers used the lightest gauge wire they think they can get away with and it sort of works OK, at least when brand new. To save on copper wire costs, the steel frame and body panels are also utilized as chassis and return path.
The best way to tell if an electrical connection is bad -if it is not clean, tight, and shiny bright, it's bad. Simply can't tell anything just by looking is the point. It is tiresome to belabor the point but it's useless trying to troubleshoot crusty cables and rusty connections. Replace them. A few dollars and some quality time with a grinding wheel or whatever will pay for itself in parts and aggravation. Keep the battery on a charger for a day or two while you're at it.
All that resistance doesn't just slow down cranking, it also roasts solenoids, switches, alternators, voltage regulators, dim headlights and weak ignition, poor heat, and golly knows what else.
37 years is a LONG time when talking about heavy current carrying cables and connections. Road salt, atmospheric pollution, grease and oil plus corrosion builds up until the circuit fails altogether. Remember the auto manufacturers used the lightest gauge wire they think they can get away with and it sort of works OK, at least when brand new. To save on copper wire costs, the steel frame and body panels are also utilized as chassis and return path.
The best way to tell if an electrical connection is bad -if it is not clean, tight, and shiny bright, it's bad. Simply can't tell anything just by looking is the point. It is tiresome to belabor the point but it's useless trying to troubleshoot crusty cables and rusty connections. Replace them. A few dollars and some quality time with a grinding wheel or whatever will pay for itself in parts and aggravation. Keep the battery on a charger for a day or two while you're at it.
All that resistance doesn't just slow down cranking, it also roasts solenoids, switches, alternators, voltage regulators, dim headlights and weak ignition, poor heat, and golly knows what else.