Rear spring replacement
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,174
Likes: 2
From: Flat Rock, MI
If you just put in the C code the rear end will sit lower than the front. When we sell our replacement X codes up front we supplement them with our ATS Modded C code in the rear. The last thing you want to do is go through all the work of swapping everything in and finding out that the rear end isn't where you want it.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,174
Likes: 2
From: Flat Rock, MI
It would have a similar rake to what they did from the factory, that is exactly what I have (see my signature).
Last edited by RobRoss; Feb 23, 2016 at 02:12 PM. Reason: added sig comment
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 306
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From: Winchester, VA
Thanks, Rob. That's pretty much how I wanted it to look. Factory only with more weight capacity.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,174
Likes: 2
From: Flat Rock, MI
You're welcome! Personally I wish my V's sat higher, I may install the overload from the rears to help pick up the front but I've never been too keen on doing that even though many have done it with good results.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,174
Likes: 2
From: Flat Rock, MI
You'll need a shorter center bolt for the spring pack since you need to remove the overload and spacer. I think most will tell you to buy new u bolts, I started with good intentions, new F250 u bolts, F250 blocks, new u bolt nuts etc. turned out the rear say way too high with the F250 block so I used mu Excursion block, Excursion u bolts but the new nuts because it was over a weekend I also cleaned up the old u bolts real well and used blue loctite. I checked the torque a few hundred miles and it was everything tight. Personally I think it's recommended to replace u bolts because they originally had a loctite patch on them. I wire wheeled mine then as I said applied loctite.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,678
Likes: 1
From: Central Tx.
Thanks Tom
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,576
Likes: 41
From: Wyoming
I have V codes up front (V10), and DRW C codes in rear. Both are OEM new. With stock Ex rear block the back of Ex sat about 1.5" lower than front.
I swapped out the OEM excursion blocks for a set of OEM F350 blocks in rear and now the rear sits .5" or so higher than front.
Please note I have a V10 motor and 5.4's and diesels will differ due to engine weight differences.
I swapped out the OEM excursion blocks for a set of OEM F350 blocks in rear and now the rear sits .5" or so higher than front.
Please note I have a V10 motor and 5.4's and diesels will differ due to engine weight differences.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2016
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From: Winchester, VA
Question for the spring experts
OK, I went and looked at the springs on the F350 again. They look pretty good. Hardly any rust on them at all. The kicker, though, is that they have 289,000 miles on them. Is that too many miles or are they still a bargain at $150 for the pair?
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Quality springs will last longer than cheap springs. I think the good stuff is 5160, they can handle more cycles - hundreds and hundreds of thousands and still return to the exact same spot (ride height).
Eventually though even good springs will start to sag. I don't see the point in all that labor and time to install used springs that may not be any better or even worse than what's in there now.
Eventually though even good springs will start to sag. I don't see the point in all that labor and time to install used springs that may not be any better or even worse than what's in there now.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,174
Likes: 2
From: Flat Rock, MI
By chance did you see a part number? If you did and it's painted on, they could be service replacement springs. Who knows, the truck may have had an easy life, is the bed beat up? Does the truck look like it had a hard life?
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 306
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From: Winchester, VA
No, I didn't see any parts numbers on them. The truck was well worn with chunks out of the seat. I think it was a work truck. The bed wasn't really beat up or rusted, but with that many miles, I'm thinking I might be better off putting that $150 towards new ones. I can always do the rears first then the fronts. There's always the option of taking them to the spring shop in Hagerstown and having them rework them and add a leaf or two, except with that route, I'm not exactly sure what the rates, etc. would be on them.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,174
Likes: 2
From: Flat Rock, MI
No, I didn't see any parts numbers on them. The truck was well worn with chunks out of the seat. I think it was a work truck. The bed wasn't really beat up or rusted, but with that many miles, I'm thinking I might be better off putting that $150 towards new ones. I can always do the rears first then the fronts. There's always the option of taking them to the spring shop in Hagerstown and having them rework them and add a leaf or two, except with that route, I'm not exactly sure what the rates, etc. would be on them.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 306
Likes: 0
From: Winchester, VA
After posting...duh
After posting this, I did a search and came up with a lot of info on the subject. Seems like I'd probably still want to do a spring swap.
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Aug 18, 2016 06:09 PM