So, new pump is in, fired up after a little cranking, let it idle while I put tools away and still have a hot no start. I'm looking for a tall bridge to jump off as I type.......

 

If you've only idled the truck so far.... get her started after cooling down a little, then take her for a good ride. You need to clear the air out and to do that, you need to drive it. Couple of good heavy throttle runs and some at speed driving and a few more heavy throttle runs. All the air needs to come out and if you still have an issue, then do an air test... you installed an OEM pump or the Adrenaline pump?

An OEM pump can be bad out of the box and more than one member has changed the pump numerous times to find a good one. Check your ICP pressure (above 500+ needed to start) when it won't fire, do the test and go from there. After you've driven it a bit, pull the IPR and check the screen as they get clogged up from the work you just did.

The only place to leak is injector cups, top o-rings or the pump..... that's it.... pump, or an injector top or bottom and the air test will probably find an injector leak.

Don't jump yet!

 

Is there any update to this? It's crazy frustrating when people don't inform the people who helped them on what happened.

 

Yes, I apologize for leaving it open like that, but unfortunately the job is still open! The truck has been outside sitting in covered storage since the winter. I've been crazy busy and the 7.2 AND the Duramax have been running great. I have plans to get the valve covers off this thing eventually and see if I can see a huge leak somewhere, the truck really makes me ill every time I look at it....I

 

I will give you $100 for it! lol

So this is an early 03'? ICP sensor is on the HPOP ?

There really isn't to much on the 03' that can leak on HPOP side. You don't have dummy plugs or stand pipes. Injector o-rings and nipple cups are really your only culprits.

Are you getting a synch when it won't start hot?

 

And what are the ICP and IPR when it happens?

 

Following this thread for sure....been through the tech folder and all...

Got a later '04, (yes, a little different). 270k miles....icp is reading a max of 514 psi on my Genisys scanner while cranking....will allllmost fire up, not really "hitting" on cylinders, but if the starter would go just a bit faster, it would sound like it's running....
514psi is supposed to make it run.....but it won't. 99.9% certain I need the HPOP.... locating fittings to do the air pressure check....

Travis

 

Sorry if that came off as harsh. I'm just reading through some of the older stuff trying to find some ideas on what I could be dealing with, there's good information and then it's just..........

Glad to hear you are going to dive into it. I've been super busy also and I'm just now getting back into mine. I've got an 04 motor so the ICP is up on the passenger side, but at this point it doesn't matter because I've got the turbo and driver's side valve cover off. I've got a very faint hiss with the IPR commanded closed, sounds like it's coming from the pump area. I've checked the O-rings at the top and bottom of the pump and everything looks good. Diesel Site says that they don't believe it is the pump based off the information I gave them. They will test it for free though if I send it in and pay shipping. Also, they said if you have an Adrenaline pump and it's found to be bad after warranty they give a crazy good discount to rebuild it, less than a factory reman by a good chunk.

 

Halleluiah!!!!!

After almost a year, the problem is solved. While doing my second air check (1st one didn't show any leaks) I found #6 and 8 injectors leaking up on top under the oil rail. I pumped a lot of air in there and eventually they started leaking real bad. Buddy who works for Ford that was advising me said 2 new injectors and an oil rail and I'd be all set. Well after contemplating that and the 700 dollar plus price tag at the dealer the next day I went to Napa and got 2 injector seal kits for 12 bucks and had it together the next day. I worked out a couple of bugs from sitting for so long and re-aligned the drivers side turbo pipe (about 6 times to get it right) and she runs like new! I will say getting that air hose screwed in to the ICP hole in the back of the engine is a mother efer!!! If my hand was a fraction bigger there's no way I could have done it. I did see a youtube video of somebody that had an air hose plugged into an oil rail that would be MUCH easier than the way I did it.

Moral of the story is even on an 03, better to do the air test before jumping to the pump, I'm a 1000 bucks lighter and changed out a perfectly good pump because I didn't do a GOOD air test first.

Thank you everybody for ALL of the advice and guidance, it's been an interesting ride with this one, now its going up for sale, I'm sticking with my 7.3!!!!

 

 

It would be good idea to start your own thread (probably get more responses that way).

Help us out a little - please let us know what year model it is. I assume it is a 2003 like the title to this thread, but please confirm. Also, what brand HPOP(s) did you install?
Have you checked to see if your oil filter reservoir fills up when cranking? This is a test for the low pressure oil pump and delivery system.
Did you experience any symptoms before the no-start (hard shaking or knocking, etc)? Did it get hot?
Does it crank evenly?
Do you have any way to retrieve engine parameters when troubleshooting (scan tool)?

btw - it is best to do the cranking w/ the starter solenoid wire jumpered to the passenger battery so your glow plugs aren't firing and the FICM isn't involved. Saves wear and tear. Lots of threads on using this wire, so a google search should show you where it is (on the passenger side of the engine compartment by the vacuum pump). It has a quick disconnect on it so you can put it to the passenger battery.

 

 

 

 

Are you using an OEM oil filter cap and OEM filter?